线路 in Oceania for selected grade

Start at crack two metres left of Ckinell but climb up grey slab on left to an easy stance directly below large thread. Straight up to middle of the two steep roofs. There's an undercling with a rattling tooth like block that is not going anywhere. Tricky gear and pumpy to place but regular gear can be found. Once over the roof follow the same line as Fracas to the top or head right to rap anchors.

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place.

Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue up to the horizontal break at 8m, then head right and up.

Incorrectly labelled as 'Tonic' when first put on The Crag. FA details on this alternate finish for 'Pot Boiler' are unknown.

Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue heading right then up gross looking crack.

Up 3m, left across 'Craddock Crack' to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m left of arete. The RH Variant goes up the crack on the arete at grade 18.

Start: 1m right of 'CC'.

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.

In the same vein as Je Suis Un Legend, links all the easiest bits of the existing routes to create a conceptual megaclassic. Unfortunately the climbing is only one star.

Start up Oogie Boogie, go diagonally right to join the top of Asteroids and finish up it. Up the slab (a touch runout) and right up the corner to finish. Its possible to keep traversing from the final corner/groove to the chains of Hyperspace Bypass (below top of cliff).

The crack.

Start beneath the R side of the front face.

People rave about this being a brilliant jamming testpiece, when in fact its a one move wonder ... so ticking it doesn't prove you're a jamming maestro. It's a very nice little climb though. The crack 3m R of 'Christian Crack'.

The right line.

The weakness up the thin face.

Start: Start 6m R of BT.

Bridge up to gain flake and then follow it till angle eases. Up vague

arete to top.

Start: Start: 3m right of chockstone step in gully, below flake.

Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof.

Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney.

The crack.

Start: Start R of CLCP2.

Boulder into R-tending flake and up it to jugs.

Start: Start 4m L of BL.

Lovely positions up the prominent grey arete, starting on the R face at first.

Start: Start about 15m up the scramble of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. The start can also be accessed by climbing 'Scylla' or 'Charybdis' for 15m then walking L along the ledge.

Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first.

Start: Start as for IaLD.

Basically a second pitch for 'Scylla'. Possibly poorly protected.

Start: Start at the ledge atop 'Scylla'.

Another awesomely steep line.

Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp.

The main crack on the wall used to be very hard when it was graded 16! There are 2 odd chipped crucifixes at the base.

The thin seam.

Start: Start on the right of the wall, left of little corner.

Worth doing for the history. This climb came into existence while Kim Carrigan was attempting the first ascent of what would become Lord Of The Rings. When Kim announced that he was intending to call the climb 'Serious Young Lizards' a piece of extremely obscure rock was promptly found, climbed and given that name.

This climb is just above the left end of 'Skydiver' wall. Could be worth doing for the shade. After scrambling up the chimney just R of 'Purple Denotes Bruising', but before getting to 'Catcher', head up chimney/gully on the R to a yellow groove on the L wall.

The arete, on the R at first then on the L, with suss rock.

Start: Start R of EE.

The face - take care with delicate rock.

Start: Start 1.5m R of R.

The next line of holds up the face.

Start: Start 1.5m R of DF.

Climb the face left of 'Tendrils' to a short black flake and up.

Start: start left of 'Tendrils'

Start: Climb up just left of the nose of 'Baby Buttress'.

Wall left of Scarlet Sage, via an orange overhang and Black flake.

Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.

Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.

1. 30m (18) Up the crack to ledge then jam the slick crack and left through the roof to next ledge and then belay at ledge.

2. 10m (18) 'Steep' jamming to roof then headwall.

Superman is lurking!

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Pilot Error' Ledge, R of the caves.

From such beginnings at age 18, 10 years later he was in on Australia's first ascent of Everest. Quite nice anyway. Start a few m R of Lois Lane beneath the only significant crackline.

It may be a grade-17 sport route but the runout above the last bolt (although easy) should not be taken lightly. As for 'The Last Disco Dancer' to its third bolt. Head up L (crux) to a stance on the arête. Continue up the slab to the ledge and lower-off anchors.

This attractive face has an unfortunate history of ugly bolting efforts. Originally festooned with hangerless machine bolts, a recent rebolting effort turned it into a highly unfortunate example of what ringbolts look like when they're not properly recessed.

Start: Start beneath the appealing orange face, only a few metres R of the arbitrary end of 'Lois Lane Wall'.

1. 22m (18) Straight up past 5 bolts, then follow the slight ramp up R (cams needed) to a lower-off where the arete meets the roof. The LHV (19) instead goes diagonally leftwards through the white rock to escape off left of the rooves.

2. 20m (18) Not as good as pitch 1 and rarely done these days. Up steep wall on the R for 7m then L to arete and up.

Tricky start then R through bulges, finishing just L of Muldoon's final arete. It's good to do in two pitches to reduce rope drag and to better protect the second from a groundfall off the bouldery start. Rather than the long scramble approach, you can also approach up the short tough finger crack a few metres L of the start of Muldoon.

Start: Start 2m R of Tantalus. Descend from DRRB at the top of Muldoon

Mostly not new climbing, but its another great outing on this great buttress. Much of the climb may have been climbed on the first ascent of Fail Safe.

1. 28m (17) Up Iphigenia past first steep section to rest, go 3m L to flake in the middle of the wall and up this past overhang to small ledge.

2. 12m (18) Step right, up corner, then up line. Watch the rock.

Lots of good stuff on this route. The final tower is intimidating and bold on poor rock, but you can avoid this by stepping left and up to chains. Start as for Clytemnaestra.

1. 30m (17) Up initial chimney then the shallow steep groove on L, over 2 overhangs to ledge.

2. 15m (16) Start on the left, or with some bold moves on the right, to gain the slender tower above, brittle rock, to airy exit.

Start 1m R of Necrophiliac. The thin crack, careful of the loose block.

What's in a name?

Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.

Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.

Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.

Walk up the gully R of the Atridae then back over the top to find a gully behind the Atridae. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.

Up the slick crack, traversing left to join Steel Delinquency. Probably not a good route to choose if your seconder can't jamb, because they'll likely hit the ledge if they come off at the start.

Start: Start beneath the white L-arching crack.

R and up at top.

Start: Start R of TFoC.

Flake then short wall.

Start: Start in middle of wall.

Traverse out above The Flashing Blade, using the handholds of that route as footholds!

Start in corner left of 2nd pitch of Viagra. Up crack for 5m, traverse right and up to bolt. up past bolt with 2nd bolt on way to top.

A good effort for the era. Start just above the "first hole" as you walk up 'Organ Pipes Gully'. The initialled black, flared offwidth/chimney - you'll be needing big cams.

The physical hand crack, taking care with the blocks at the start. Start 2m R of Cerberus.

Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the D Minor side.

The thin crack opposite Lemmington over low overlap and up R-facing flake.

Descend via rap off chains.

Essentially the right arete of D Minor.

Start 2m R of D Minor.

Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete.

Good line up right side of 'D Minor' Pinnacle.

Start: Below bulging crack on arete right of 'D Minor'.

1. 16m (16) Climb line past bulge. Varient start (19) is little flake 2 metres right of the bulging crack.

2. 14m (18) Traverse right along the big break and take the crack up the middle of the wall. Two bulges at the top provide the excitement.

Subtle line on left side of the D Major Pipe. The third pitch, up the south-east face is mostly done as a climb in its own right.

1. 25m (18) Climb subtle seams to ledge (fiddly small wires).

2. 10m (5) Up chimney to ledge. The front of the thin buttress to the left is somewhat harder.

3. 15m (16) Up greenish streak up middle of steep left wall to rap anchor. A bloody good pitch.

Start as for D Major, then take the line between D Major and Libretto.

How? The initial crack of Ejaculation and then straight up from the plaque.

Really nice climbing with an exciting blast up the finishing flake.

1. 35m 17. Go up onto a terrace a few metres above ground level in the gully just right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Follow the crack up past the left side of the overhang at 25 metres and on up the flake continuation to chains (30m to gully).

2. 50m. Originally went to top but this pitch is rubbish so just rap off.

It is possible to do a harder finish (18) by traversing across the blank wall before you get to the chains, to join the final flake system of F Sharp, but there doesn't seem to be much point. This variant by Lockwood and Ed Neve 23/7/1977. Arguably less pointless (but probably more!) would be to continue further left before F Sharp deteriorates, to join The Wraith near the roof for it's classy corner finish.

The late Dennis Kemp said that this was one of only two climbs that he had done at Arapiles that he would not consider repeating. Start just R of Bass Clef, directly below the chimney of Bass Clef.

1. 30m (17) Directly up thin lichenous seams to the base of the chimney of Bass Clef, then up right on black slab to the foot of a crack just left of Tremulo. Up this crack to a stance atop a short chimney. The abseil chain on Tremulo is just a step to the right, not that we're suggesting running away or anything like that.

2. 15m (-) Step left and climb front of buttress.

3. 25m (-) Up crest of buttress finishing steeply past gnome.

4. 5m (-) The crack behind. Rope drag could be a problem.

A good solution to this buttress spotted by Jen Woods, going up to and left through the overhang. The route ties together bits of four other climbs, Humouresque, Bass Clef, Bag Pipes and Low Note, into something that is much better than any of the others. Start where you would scramble up to Dirge but stay at ground level.

Go straight up as per Humouresque to the base of a chimney (Bass Clef), then follow Bag Pipes up the arete between the chimney and the smooth face to the left. After Bag Pipes heads rightwards, continue straight up as the climbing gets harder towards the overhang (small wires). Go diagonally left through roof, bolt at lip, and finish as for Low Note.

Excellent climb for the grade. Absorbing from bottom to top.

Makes a worthwhile route out of Yossarian. Right of Toccata is a crack up the left side of a short buttress.

1. Step right from the start of Toccata into crack and up to ledge. Follow seams up and right past small and fiddly gear. Where seam blanks out, step left and continue up to base of Toccata's chimney.

2. The wide crack of Yossarian looks rubbish. Just finish up Toccata.

A hard few moves on the crux but a bit disappointing overall. Start on the grey buttress just right of Toccata.

1. 13m (10) The buttress to a small stance about 6 metres below and left of prominent roof.

2. 35m (17) Up diagonally right from 2-3 metres to an awkward mantleshelf then an unlikely traverse back left to a thin crack. Go up into a wider, bottomless crack just right of 'Toccata'. The easiest way off is probably to scramble around (roped) to the abseil anchors on 'Toccata'.

Quite dicky on the initial face and protection on the middle section is not the best. A good climb which would improve with traffic (or a concerted cleaning effort). Originally done in two pitches but much safer to do as one.

Start at the small corner as for 'Deflated' etc.

Up corner, step right onto face and up seam to small stance. Slightly left and up into shallow groove (several #3 RPs useful) and finish up right arete.

Contrived. As for Overachiever, but from the crack, move out left under the roof to a small foot ledge, then haul up through the roof. Roof is poorly protected, so protection up high in the initial crack is advisable, and it may be possible the get a high cam placement before committing to the roof moves.

Up R to small flake, then up R to L end of a ledge. Poxy flake to finish.

Start: Start 5m down R of OL.

The wide L-facing flake-crack.

Start: Start 4m L of MYC.

Good.

Start: Line on arete.

The shallow groove, then the L crack and the L side of the flake to a corner and face on the south wall.

Start: Start on L edge of 'Brick Wall'.

A good warmup romp for the harder stuff here. Up Brick Dust to the base of its chimney. Step down R (unlikely) and make a few balancy moves across and up into Squeakeasy. Continue up Squeakeasy to its anchor.

Wall to bushy ledge, thin black crack, wall.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Pedro'.

A really good route, and definitely one of the most pleasant routes at the grade at 'Arapiles'.

Start 3m R of Jason.

Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and uo thin line.

A contemporary classic, this traverse boldly avoids every single crux on the wall and is maybe the most contrived way to put a top rope on Squeakeasy. Follows the obvious traverse line from the ledge of Dylan all the way to the Squeakeasy chains.

P1. Courageously set off from the ledge just under Dylan, methodically avoiding every hard move on the wall by traversing across the obvious line. Choose your own adventure getting from Jason to BP. Step across Pedro and belay on a good ledge underneath the tower of choss just left of Sue's climb.

P2. Once recovered mentally, step left around the tower of choss, then head up a vegetated crack R of Pancho. Traverse into Quisling above its crux, before the open corner, through a dodgy roof. Up the corner, then L onto the ramp above the Squeakeasy crux. Fire it to the chains and bask in the glory of your mediocrity.

Start: This line is in a hanging gully right of 'Six and Out' (this is above Jason on Golden Fleece Wall) and takes the obvious crack on the right (facing in) wall.

The obvious flake crack on the wall facing 'Golden Fleece Wall'.

Start: Start on S side of the pinnacle.

The wide crack just R of the arete. A better jamming testpiece than 'The Rack'. There's good gear but beware that cams have a habit of skating out of the polished rock so avoid flaring or merely parallel placements.

Start: Start just R of FT.

Short line.

Start: Start 3m L of TSSO.

Follow the chalk. Be sure to sew it up - there's not much room for error on routes this short! The RHV goes diagonally R.

Start: Start under the main chalked crack line on this wall.

The block and seam.

Start: Start 1m R of TSSO.

Its just a step to the left - then a jump to the right. Pelvic thrust up to top!

Start: Starts right of 'Bunyip' and about 2m left of broken corner, sort of behind tree.

The weakness in the slab then L into chimney

Start: Start just L of 'Coyote'.

The bottomless crack.

Start: Start R of WoT.

An accidental new route. Not easy to locate from this description though!

Start: Behind the 'Wailing Wall' up right arête.

Dyno, then the wall.

Start: Start R of CV.

The rooflet.

Start: Start just L of the arete, R of PS.

Head diagonally L to join the bottomless corner on the arete.

Start: Start R of D.

The awkward offwidth (is there any other sort?)

Start: Start on the L side of the next buttress R of WD.

The diagonal crack then the face.

Start: Start on the front of the nose between HW and J.

More wide crack thrashery.

“ What an absolute gem. Beautiful variety of cracks with an easy finish. Would 100% recommend.”

Start: Start under the R-facing dark wide crack on the R side of the HW buttress.

The chalked-up orange crack 10m R of Jackal.

Start: Start 1m R of THE.

A generous envisioning of a route. Presumably start behind the tree and maintain serious blinkers to climb anything resembling 18.

Start: 2m R of 'Yelping Pup'.

The twin cracks.

Start: Start just L of KB.

Up H then trickily R into corner/crack.

Start: Start as for H.

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R edge of the wall.

A smooth small wall facing north east approximately 70m up and right of Shattered Buttress. Climb to small sentry box. Take the right hand edge.

The slabby arete just right of the big chimney left of 'Prudity'.

Quite classic and good fun. Climb the obvious corner on the left side of the wall. An awkward start then jamming to a little roof. A bit tricky but not too cruxy. Take care with gear in the glassy crack - cams have a habit of either skating out or walking in.

Start 2m R of Droop Street. Short crack to a mantle, then easier wall.

At last - some truth in advertising! Start right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing Central Gully. Up shallow groove to break. Swing boisterously out through roof to top.