攀登 in Central Region

Nice and smooth, classical first-pitch Animale bushwhacking

Layback is easier if you don't layback it. Very aesthetic pitch

Really cool dihedral here. By now I was quite beat and rested on the rope a lot. The traverse was incredibly fun.

Ropes ended up crossing each other quite a bit, made things a bit tough in the crux since I needed to sit on my PAS in the piton below and untangle them with about a meter of extra slack before I could reach the draw in the crux.

Did the original pitch, belaying off a rock. Dana tried the 5+ leftmost variant (quite friable), I did the 4+ right one (not friable, but grassy, some pro opportunities available on the right). The theoretical new bolt belay is actually a single bolt, and the following 4+ chimney is only protected at the base, so we continued on the original pitch.

Did the old pitch, but broken down in 2 pitches (can't increase pitch number on thecrag), by using the new P1 belay (1 bolt, 1 tree, not 2 bolts like on the drawing) as an intermediate belay.

First bit is cool but really pumpy - aided my way up until the overhanging dihedral, which I freed, but rested on the rope. 25m 7- if free

Second bit just has 1 draw I pulled on, at the initial overhang, and then easy (5 or less) terrain to the belay at a rock. 25m 70

Also broken down in 2 pitches on account of rope drag. Final belay on rock horn + red totem

Did the original version, with the photogenic layback (protectable by slingable chockstone). Belayed at a rock right after reaching the ridge, since Dana wanted to warn me about a very loose rock on the ridge (still there, there were people in the gullies below). Bolt belay (2 bolts) is 10m onwards on the ridge, at the base of the first face, which would be a 50m pitch then.

Had almost forgotten about that bushwhack

My favourite pitch. Accidentally stepped on a piton, so rather than 6/6+ let's say 6 A1.Fancy, balancy, well-protected 6 UIAA face climbing mixed with 5 UIAA friable alpine crap

Intermediate belay at the bushes since I forgot to turn right and climbed the peak instead

Tried to lead, got scared above the bolt (felt there was ground fall potential with my long slings, still had 30m of terrain to do), switched leads

Very airy and beautiful pitch, probably the most stylish

Rested on the rope a couple times in the crux but freed the moves. Reached the right exit all pumped, was informed I'd better not take a fall above the cam (red Totem, our largest) since it's a long pendulum to the point where ropes were slung across a horn. Waited until the pump went away, climbed half the crack, bumped the cam to a placement as high as I could reach, rested again, climbed the crack to good holds, reached down to remove the cam, continued. Still can't commit,it seems...

Gear placement practice to calm my nerves.

High hopes

Tried it on lead first. Tried it free, took a cheesegrater fall right back to the belay ledge (the remaining pitons aren't super useful), then couldn't do it A1 anymore either. Switched leads. Had a hell of a time A1 too. The crack went easy, though - beautiful climbing! Touched a sling for a moment but didn't use for progression.

Tried it on lead again. Lost my whole goddamn nerve after piton 2, since the solution was not obvious, the obvious solution was committing, and I didn't want to fall on that piton since if it'd break, it'd be a pretty big factor fall (the other one is almost at belay height). My partner had whipped on it with no consequences some years ago, but still. Switched leads again. Fell 3 times above piton 2 until I figured out the trick (there's a jug right in the crack, to get you to good holds on the face that get you to where the offwidth becomes body-size). The dihedral on the second part went easy, beautiful climbing. My partner appears to have had too much fun with my cams to care about the bolt Belayed at the official belay due to rope drag (piton at the base of the dihedral needs a longer sling than Andrei could spare at the moment)

We belayed at the official belay, and I didn't want to try anything that could be factor-y, so Andrei got that one as well. The "biscuit" slab is amazing.

Not sure how to make the distinction between leading and following on a no-pro pitch you rappel and then climb a chimney while self-belaying with your rappel gear, but anyway.

Split it in two pitches at the intermediate belay since they're not easy pitches anyway. Aided the whole of 1.1, 2 went mostly free.

Cool exit over the ridge, very bouldery, airy move I couldn't free the first time tho

Bushy slog leads to passing a slab blocking the ledge. That'd have been interesting had I not had heatstroke already Took a really annoying pendulum out of the belay

At this point I just wanted everything to be over. Took a pendulum, really flailed passing the crux even on 2 aiders, not my best day.

Rested on the rope a lot to try and clear a stuck tricam

Pulled on gear on the friable portion and on the face exit

Alternative entrance at the first bolt. Tried uniting the first 2 pitches, rope felt a bit short, so I belayed off a boulder after the initial no-pro part of P2

Can't tag it as aid as a second but pulled on the sling of the piton protecting the downclimb since it's much more annoying as a second.

Found the piton I missed the last time (well actually Doru found it). This time around, I didn't run out of rope, we maybe had 10m free? Belayed off crappier trees than last time tho.

Lost our way here a bit, and Doru had to downclimb some sketchy shit.

Bushwhacking.

The second half of the pitch felt weirder than last time - had forgot about the initial layback, and I didn't figure it out again at first.

Tried it on lead first, forgot how sketchy the pro is after the first bolt on the crack, and didn't have anything that'd fit in it either (it'd be pitons or micronuts...). There's a slightly overhanging move there that's kiss the ledge territory if you fall. The crack on the right looks easier though,and protectable with gear that'd hold a fall... the traverse doesn't really have any pro placements though...

Bushwhacking

Goes easy on the right side variant if using a small friend under the boulder (can be recovered since there's a piton right after). Also used a medium friend right at the exit before the intermediate belay, not the best placement though (flared, dirty crack, a large offset would have been so much better...). Tried to link it with the next pitch, to skip a piton belay...

...and failed, since I ran out of rope 5m before the belay. Since this was easy terrain but the pitch before wasn't, didn't want to ask my partner to simul, so I downclimbed to the last piton, extended it with all the slings draws etc I still had on me, downclimbed some more to that, clipped into it, was lowered to the piton below, clove hitched the rope to that and belayed my partner up. Pictures of the whole setup were taken by my partner for blackmail purposes, but he says they didn't come out right and I shouldn't worry.