帮助

Gritstoneberget

24
SWE

季节分布

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

总结

Fantastic easy access crag with an awesome view over Kalvfjärden. Great routes in the grade 5-6 region.

描述

准入问题

Sensitive access situation. Keep very low profile. Be aware that any noice bounce on the wall and down to the house below. No good parking. Located in a nature reserve. Bolting not allowed.

Check latest access information at:

https://stkf.se/accessinfo/

http://access.bergsport.se/gritstoneberget/

前往

Best is to park at Dyviksudd parking and walk the trail through the nature reserve.

About 10m north from the postboxes 92 and 96 on Ällmoravägen, you find a pole marking the boarder of the nature reserve. Walk straight up in the forest, following the nature reserve boarder white markings on the trees and you will hit a trail that leads up on the ledge.

行为准则

No new bolts or rebolting is allowed.

标签

线路

添加线路 添加路线图 调整排序 批量编辑 难度体系换算
Grade 线路

Start up a few meters left of the block on the ground (Tummeliten) where there is a crack, then red rock (run out), thereafter a small dieder. Aim towards the pine tree close to the top.

首攀: Claes Jelinek & Martin Andersson, 1986

Starts on top of the block on the ground. A few meters up is crack which starts with a hole.

首攀: Lars Grankvist & Lars Svadängs, 1981

Starts 2 meters to the left om Amandas lov. See below. Amazing moves over steep terrain fo rits grade. Just go for it, the handholds will arrive where you need them.

首攀: Rikard Hedman & Lars Svadängs

(4- Swedish Grade) Steep climbing with good holds on the most prominent crack located 2-3 meters left of the oak tree and the dead tree.

Topo: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

首攀: Lars Grankvist & Lars Johansson

Thin climbing with poor protection. One old (potentially / probably not safe) bolt at the most difficult part. (Original Swedish grade 6+/7-). The route starts under the bolt high up 2m to the right of Amandas lov.

首攀: Björn Alber & Lars Svadängs

(6 Swedish Grade) It starts by the oak tree and the dead tree approximately 4 meters to the right of the the prominent crack "Amandas Lov". Start to climb the two very thin cracks (crux) then continue slightly left the easiest way up. At the middle of the climb, you have a bomber mid size nut placement. After that protection, it is difficult to find any protection. Prior to the bomber placement, you find good but small nut placements. Topo description at http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

首攀: Jan Liliemark & Lars Svadängs

(6+ Swedish Grade) After a small ledge, half way up the route, place the bomber nut and step right, then straight up for 5-6 meters with one very thin move.

首攀: Björn Myrer Lund

(4+/5- Swedish Grade) Starts under the prominent horizontal crack 2.5 meters up. The first crux is to reach this "thank god" grip. Continue up towards a small flake. Small protection placements under the flake. Thereafter, move right towards a crack, then up and move left again and up on good holds.

首攀: Lars Svadängs & Kenneth Nolkrantz

First half is Tveksamma trender, while the second part is Skorpionen. Fantastic straight up line making it a sustained 6b with a couple of meters rest in the central part of the climb.

首攀: Lars Svadängs & Christer Åstrand

First half is Skorpionen (5c overhang) and the final part is Tveksamma trender's top crux. This is also a great variation making the routse more straight lines.

Bolt replaced 2022.

首攀: Lars Svadängs & Björn Alber

首攀: Choe Brooks & Jan Liliemark

This variation uses the same start, but goes straight up to the left of the "whole". Straight line.

This variation start 2 meters to the right in the thin crack, thereafter straight up to the crux of the route. Very limited protection, ground fall potential for several meters.

Start up using the thin crack to the left of No exit. Thereafter travers right and continue upjust beside No exit to the top. Tricky to protect, use micro-cams and nuts.

首攀: Johan Sandberg, 2014

自由首攀: Johan Sandberg & Adam Montén Kovacs, 5月 2014

自由首攀: Jan Liliemark & Lars Svadängs, 1980

Positioned between No Exit and Stoppa in produkter. Follow the two old pitons. You can put in protection 3 meters above the ground and just below the first piton. Otherwise you have to trust the old pitons.

首攀: Björn Alber & Lars Svadängs

自由首攀: Björn Alber & Anna Groth, 1987

Start 2m left from Urkki

首攀: Johan Sandberg & Lats Thoren, 2019

首攀: Petri Lintinen

Small cams useful

自由首攀: Thomas Weber & Ulrica Sundberg, 1989

Start just to the right of the Urrki crack. AIM for the finger crack below the bolt. Pass the bolt and continue up towards the next crack which leads to the top. Bolt replaced 2022.

自由首攀: Lars Svadängs & Björn Alber, 1986

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: M. Widerberg

日期: 2018

Climbing and bouldering areas close to Stockholm - over 3000 climbing routes in 57 climbing areas on more than 150 walls

附近的住宿 more 隐藏

分享至

照片 浏览所有照片

上传区域的照片

星期天 16 4月
查看Gritstoneberget的最新动态。

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文