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The Unnamed Wall

  • 难度体系: US
2

描述

The Unnamed Wall has a variety of climbs, ranging from fat WI 3 to very difficult mixed (M7-9). Unlike the Genesis/Mummy areas, the Unnamed Wall is favorably located on the sunny aspect of the canyon. However, this does cause less consistency in the formation of several routes. Also note that lead climbing is required here as there is no easy way to walk around to set up top-ropes.

前往

The Unnamed Wall approach (with a beaten path) is shorter than one might expect. From the Hyalite Creek/Peak aka Grotto Falls Trailhead follow the main trail for a short distance to the first major clearing (the one with the trail sign at its far side). Follow the first trail off to the right (west) down to the creek. Cross the creek and traverse right around a steep hill. Then, angle left up a wide drainage, and go right past the tree choked gully. Continue up to the talus slope and hike up its right side to arrive at the cliff band just left of the impressive climb of Bingo World. Approach times will vary from somewhere around 25-45 minutes depending on the trail conditions and one's hiking speed.

线路

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Grade 线路

This climb differs from others on the Unnamed Wall in that it is tucked away in a small, north facing cleft. It receives much less sun and is usually more brittle than nearby climbs such as The Fat One. However, this a great climb and a good transition for a WI 3 leader wanting to get a taste of leading steeper ice. The short initial pillar is WI 4 and the crux. The climbing becomes easier upon entering the narrow gully, which has a couple steeper steps and ends in a small bowl. A new chain anchor has been installed in the rock to the left at the 35 meter mark. There is an optional second pitch (often snow covered) that begins at the back of the bowl. There is said to be tree anchors for the top of this pitch.

Although the WI3 rating is said to be somewhat understated early season, this sunny climb usually provides a mellow WI 3 line by January. By this time, the easiest place to begin is on the right hand side of the initial steep step. After overcoming this step, continue up low-angled ice and possibly snow, pass a small tree on your left, and finish at an excellent belay tree at the top. Rap down the route with two ropes or one rope with a v-thread.

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Jake Mergenthaler

日期: 2022

国际书号: 978-0-9657079-5-4

Sharp End Publishing:
Whether you're an experienced climber or a total beginner, Central Montana Rock has something for you—it covers a diverse set of crags between Helena and the Rocky Mountain Front.
  • From granitic trad adventures to steep limestone sport climbing, this unique region juxtaposes some of the hardest climbs in the state with beginner-friendly crags
  • Written by Jake Mergenthaler, Helena's most notable first ascensionist, with the help of the Helena Climbers' Coalition
  • This 2nd edition is equipped with new information and more than twice as many routes as the first

作者: Erik Christensen

日期: 2015

A Bouldering Guide to Southwest Montana is your guide to more than 1,000 different boulder problems all within a few hours of Bozeman, Montana. The guide contains more than 100 actions photos and hundreds more beta photos that showcase the best boulders SW Montana has to offer. Areas included in the guide are:

-Whiskey Gulch

-Tobacco Roots

-Madison Valley

-Gallatin Canyon

-Bozeman Area

-Yankee Jim Canyon

附近的住宿 more 隐藏

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