Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Roman Walls
14 Crixus

The offwidth come squeeze chimney 8m east of Spartacus.

FA: B.Aikman & D.Anderson-Smith, 2013

Trad 15m
20 Spartacus

The prominent offwidth corner crack on the southern side of the main outcrop facing Sentinel Rocks. Well protected with tube chocks and larger camms.

FA: B.Aikman & D.Anderson-Smith, 2013

Trad 15m
Sentinel Rocks
21 Tangent

A few meters left of Luvly A nice looking horizontal break with a finger crack above. Comes in from the left to start

FA: Dane Evans, 16 Sep 2017

Trad 8m
Trojan Wall
18 Onomatopoeia

Start as for Emu Parade on edge of large undercut overlap. A tricky start gains the slab. Head up the easy unprotected slab for 10m and arrange protection in the roof flake with a long runner. Head up a few metres and follow the right edge of the unprotected arête to the horizontal break at 30m. A 0.5 and 1 cam do the trick here. Traverse right a few metres and use 3 cam for pro around the corner. Jam your way up the undercut slab.

FA: Dave Cameron & Hatice Sitki, 2004

Trad 45m
23 Trojan

The central off-width.

  1. 35m (23).

  2. 15m (15) (loose block at top of pitch 2).

FFA: B. Aikman & G. Butler (Alt), 2014

Trad 50m, 2
26 Douráteos híppos

Bolted by Mike Peck back in the day, rebolted and sent in 22. Climbs the pillar 2m right of Soolaiman, starting from the ledge at 8m past 6 or so bolts.

The Trad start would be a worthy extension in a different style.

FA: nathanual hebbard, 2 Oct 2022

Sport 20m, 6
The Lego Blocs (Bouldering)
V8 Doomsday

FA: Justin Ryan, 2013

Boulder 7m
V2/3 Sunshine

FA: Justin Ryan, 2013

Boulder 4m
V6 Flippster

Starts on the two jugs in the middle of the wall, keep your mittens off the right-hand rail.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2013

Boulder 6m
V6 Dino bones

Stand start on two good crimp and cruise up tall, this is on the back side of the slabbin it line

FA: Daniel Fisher, 2013

Boulder
Legoland Other Trackside (Bouldering)
V3 The Other Problem

Sit start with LH on flat edge and RH on prow. Climb the prow.

FA: Jack Folkes, 31 Dec 2016

Boulder 3m
V3 That Undercling

Sit start the underclinging the crack. Jumping off here is the descent.

FA: Jack Folkes, 30 Mar 2018

Boulder 3m
V2 Non-essential Oils

Stand start from conglomerate pebble then climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 20 Jan 2019

Boulder 3m
V2 Anti-Ants

Stand start the arete from a high RH sidepull and a low LH sidepull. Watch the hollow flakes. Good balancey moves.

FA: Jack Folkes, 30 Mar 2018

Boulder 4m
V3 A King Amongst Ants

Stand start the nice looking slab. Head straight up. Some funk required.

FA: Jack Folkes, 30 Mar 2018

Boulder 4m
V2 That Slab

Stand start on the good low ledge, grab some crimps and slab your way up.

FA: Jack Folkes, 30 Mar 2018

Boulder 3m
V1 That Arete

Sit start on the good edges. Up the blunt arete.

FA: Jack Folkes, 30 Mar 2018

Boulder 3m
Legoland Freebird
20 Rust

The offwidth left of Powder Finger.

FA: B Aikman, 2019

Trad 10m
Legoland Hog wall
21 Never Enough

Right of 'Rock in a Sock'. Start by stepping off the boulder. Easiest to climb RIAS first and rap to the starting position.

FA: Chris Warner, 2008

Sport 12m, 2
20 Rock in a Sock

The left of two climbs on the blunt boulder beside Hog's Wall.

FA: Chris Warner, 2008

Sport 10m, 2
Legoland Valley side
V3 Blain

The crack in the roof of the windy tunnel, finishing up the squeeze chimney.

FA: B.Aikman, 2012

Boulder 5m
24 Anticipation

A nice traverse to take your mind off all those slabs.

Start on the edge of the open cave facing the valley, with 'Padarn' at your back. Traverse right past eight bolts. At the last bolt pull up and mantle to a double bolt belay.

To descend, scramble down the back of the boulder at a short corner. If your second isn't game to follow, then reverse the climb or backjump to clean.

FA: Oliver Story, 2011

Sport 20m, 8
Legoland North-west
8 Crossmoss

Introductory Route on the left hand side of the Anamosscity face

FA: Amelie Burrell, Mar 2017

Sport 10m, 3
8 Caribou Cafe

Straight up the middle of the slab using the first two bolts on Crossmoss.

FA: Thurein Halpin, 2017

Sport 8m, 2
8 Anamosscity

Two bolts up the slab on the boulder opposite Technocrat. Bolt belay.

FA: Ana Diaz & Daniel Gordon, 2014

Sport 10m, 2
9 Playdough

The other side of the Duplo flake. Start and slab finish are the same.

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 26 Dec 2018

Trad 15m
15 Duplo

Lovely flake/overlap with underclings and laybacks. Located directly downhill from ‘Crazy Mama’, but before ‘Goose Step’.

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 8 Dec 2018

Trad 15m
Legoland Platform
21 Anakey to Life

Right of Famous Redheads and left of Going Grey. Step left into the start of the crack; follow it then slab above past six bolts to a bolt belay.

FA: Daniel Gordon & Oliver Story, 2012

Sport 20m, 6
The Blackfish King

This is another high and serious addition from Pat Reynolds. Deep in the large main cave underneath Legoland, entered from The Platform sector, at the far end of the cave is a tall feature that looks like a fish head that looms over a serious landing. Start up the small slab to the lower jaw of the fishes head, then compression climbing up the upper jaw to top out over the top of the head and down climb easily off the back. This problem has serious consequences if a fall is taken so top rope inspection and lots and lots of pads are highly recommended.

Set: Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

FFA: Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

Boulder 10m
The Blackfish King

This is another high and serious addition from Pat Reynolds. Deep in the large main cave underneath Legoland, entered from The Platform sector, at the far end of the cave is a tall feature that looks like a fish head that looms over a serious landing. Start up the small slab to the lower jaw of the fishes head, then compression climbing up the upper jaw to top out over the top of the head and down climb easily off the back. This problem has serious consequences if a fall is taken so top rope inspection and lots and lots of pads are highly recommended.

Set: Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

FFA: Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

Boulder 10m
V5 R Elation

Highball pillar in the cave, vert to slab, can be rehearsed on tr using trad gear to rig a line

Chris

FA: Chris, 28 Mar

Boulder 8m
25 Non Caffeinated Organism

In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top.

Scramble up and start from the top of the boulder that creates the halfway ledge on the left side of the route. Belaying from the ground level of the cave is best. Place a low cam and then lean out to clip the bolt, pull out onto the face and hard, technical crimping out to the right leads to a delicate slab to the top.

The direct start past one bolt from the ground level is now an open project - all yours if you want it!

FA: Duncan Brown

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, 23 Mar 2019

Mixed trad 20m, 6
25 Non Caffeinated Organism

In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top.

Scramble up and start from the top of the boulder that creates the halfway ledge on the left side of the route. Belaying from the ground level of the cave is best. Place a low cam and then lean out to clip the bolt, pull out onto the face and hard, technical crimping out to the right leads to a delicate slab to the top.

The direct start past one bolt from the ground level is now an open project - all yours if you want it!

FA: Duncan Brown

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, 23 Mar 2019

Mixed trad 20m, 6
Open Project

Open Project - all yours if you want it! In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the northern side of the open courtyard. Bolts up the crimpy wall to a rappel station on top as for 'Anakey to Life', etc.

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

SportProject 15m, 5
Legoland Poachers
25 Poacher's Pantry

Lean across from the boulder to clip the first bolt. Step onto the arete. Follow the bolt ladder, levitating past the fifth bolt.

FA: Oliver Story, 2012

Sport 12m, 6
23 Nobface, Robin Waring Memorial Climb

Up the face and through the overlap past four bolts.

FA: Stephen Waring, 2012

Sport 12m, 4
5 Skyline

On the far right side of the lows angle slab (back side of the 'Information' block) scramble up to the wide ledge at the start from the left to belay and start the routes here. Up the slab past 2 bolts to a trad belay. Scramble down

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Sport 10m, 2
5 Skyline

On the far right side of the lows angle slab (back side of the 'Information' block) scramble up to the wide ledge at the start from the left to belay and start the routes here. Up the slab past 2 bolts to a trad belay. Scramble down

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Sport 10m, 2
9 Centre Direct

In the middle of the low angle slab (back side of the 'Information' block) scramble up to the wide ledge at the start from the left to belay and start the routes here. Up the slab past 1 bolt to a trad belay. Scramble down

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Sport 10m, 1
9 Centre Direct

In the middle of the low angle slab (back side of the 'Information' block) scramble up to the wide ledge at the start from the left to belay and start the routes here. Up the slab past 1 bolt to a trad belay. Scramble down

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Sport 10m, 1
Legoland Atrium
20 ODub Shenanigans

Right of 'Running Flush' there is a slot down in between the large boulders, through a small hole that puts you in a courtyard platform in the middle of the cluster of boulders. On the right side (facing the valley) in the open courtyard you will find a short, overhanging off width crack. Take a 3, 4, 5 and 6 Camelot to protect. Trad belay and easy walk off. Feisty little number!

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Trad 10m
20 ODub Shenanigans

Right of 'Running Flush' there is a slot down in between the large boulders, through a small hole that puts you in a courtyard platform in the middle of the cluster of boulders. On the right side (facing the valley) in the open courtyard you will find a short, overhanging off width crack. Take a 3, 4, 5 and 6 Camelot to protect. Trad belay and easy walk off. Feisty little number!

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Trad 10m
Spirit Animal

This is a serious and commiting, ungraded highball. Down through the hole right of 'Running Flush' to the hidden courtyard. Immediately through the entrance hole and on your left there is a short steep wall capped with a high slab. Start on the obvious big feature, move right, mantle the lip and quest up the high slab, exiting top left. Do not use the wall behind you, but it is there as a safety net if you freak out halfway up. Some hollow flakes to be wary of and top rope pre-inspection is highly recommended.

Set: Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

FFA: Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

Boulder 10m
Spirit Animal

This is a serious and commiting, ungraded highball. Down through the hole right of 'Running Flush' to the hidden courtyard. Immediately through the entrance hole and on your left there is a short steep wall capped with a high slab. Start on the obvious big feature, move right, mantle the lip and quest up the high slab, exiting top left. Do not use the wall behind you, but it is there as a safety net if you freak out halfway up. Some hollow flakes to be wary of and top rope pre-inspection is highly recommended.

Set: Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

FFA: Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

Boulder 10m
12 Full House

The arete left of Ace High. Start from adjacent boulder, reach first bolt then step on and right to the slab and up past 3 bolts to a trad anchor and then walk off.

Set: Ray Spencer & Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Ray Spencer & Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Sport 15m, 3
12 Full House

The arete left of Ace High. Start from adjacent boulder, reach first bolt then step on and right to the slab and up past 3 bolts to a trad anchor and then walk off.

Set: Ray Spencer & Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Ray Spencer & Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Sport 15m, 3
19 Furry Floss

Opposite the Empty Step slab a thin crack leads to a ledge. Slab and mantle past a bolt to the top. Bouldery crux may make for a tricky onsight. First couple of ascents used small wires, BD3-5. Take cams, BD0.3-1 to belay off at the top. Scramble down the back to get off.

FFA: James Lister, Nov 2016

Mixed trad 10m, 1
27 Freedom Of Information
1 27
2 17

A good trad pitch on perfect rock with ample protection and amazing movement.

Frees the old aid climb "Information".

  1. Start up the off width corner, 'Oleo' and then traverse left along the finger crack that trends slightly downwards. Perfect gear all along the crack although hard to place on lead in many places so running out the cruxes is the way to go. Technical movement on bad feet and flaring, slopey finger locks along almost the whole route is the name of the game. Finish at the far left arête and do the second pitch from there.

  2. From the far left arete, continue to follow the rising crack traverse to the far left of this wall and top out to the summit from there. Technical, balancey movement for the grade and good small cams for protection. Trad belays.

FFA: Duncan Brown, 8 Jan 2017

Trad 45m, 2
21 The Renaissance Man

Short slab arete with a hard start.

Set: Duncan Brown

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Sport 10m, 2
Legoland Approach boulders
V4 Ants, So Many Ants

Low stand start on wide sidepulls, left of the boulder on the ground. Move up and right to head up the prow. Watch the landing...

FA: Jack Folkes, 31 Dec 2016

Boulder 4m
Tower Rocks
32 Vertigo

Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site.

FA: Norm Booth & Lincoln Hall, 1972

FFA: Daniel Fisher, Sep 2019

Trad 36m
AID:A3+ Schools Out

Tricky pin stacks and beaks to bolts and bat hooks

FA: Chris Fitzgerald, 2004

Aid 15m, 2
20 Pass the Kettle

Just right of Fluorescent, up past a small seam and over ledges to top.

FA: Chris Warner, 2008

Sport 10m
22 Fluorescent

Line of bolts right of Atom Blaster, stepping off the big boulder.

FA: Andrew Bull, 2008

Sport 10m
23 Illusionary lines

Takes the blunt arête right of Chopper with 2 bolts. Start as for Chopper then move right onto the arete.

FA: Andrew Bull, 2008

Sport 15m, 2
23 Us and Them

The obvious start to Illusionary lines. Wide fists and laybacks up the corner to to a mantle. Finish up Illusionary Lines.

You could finish up Chopper at around gr20

FA: Dane Evans, 1 Dec 2018

Mixed trad 15m, 3
Big Bud

Old desperate project of Chris Warner. Has been top roped clean by Zac Vertrees at 27/28. It very difficult to pause and clip.

FA: 2011

SportProject 12m, 3
26 Reckoner

Thin climbing up the dyke. An old top-rope project, lead bolted by Chris Warner.

FA: Chris Warner, 2011

Sport 12m, 4
The Cloisters The Afterthought Area
21 Green Dragon

A hand traverse along a crack under a roof, using all sorts of old-school tricks. To reach it wander 20m right of Lay Lady Lay, past a square-cut mossy slab and round the corner to a wall capped by a large overhang. Scramble up to the right end of the wall to start at the entrance to a cave. Take camalots 1-6, with doubles in the large sizes.

FA: Oliver Story & Daniel Gordon, 2013

Trad 20m
The Cloisters The Cereals Buttress
23 Olympus 9mm

Start 10m uphill and left from Crackle on a blunt boulder with a mossy streak down the front. Up the flake and blunt arete to half height, then diagonally right and up the scoop. DBB on top.

FA: Oliver Story & Daniel Gordon, 2013

Sport 25m, 8
The Cloisters Simple Simon Slabs
18 Brutus

The off-width / squeeze chimney between Afterburn and Evil Ways.

FA: B.Aikman, 2013

Trad 10m
19 Myanmar Thu

Start in the gully just right of Irish Nose. Straight up the slab past 3 bolts. Move right to the crack. At the top of the flake continue up easing broken slab to tree belay well back. Take medium to large cams.

FA: Steven Halpin, 2012

Mixed trad 25m, 3
17 Irish Nose

A direct start to Irish Shiela. Pad up the slabby arete past two bolts to join IS at its 3rd bolt. Continue as for IS up the arete. Probably soloed and top roped by many before being recorded.

FA: Steven Halpin, 2010

Sport 20m, 4
The Cloisters The Hello Boulder
23 For Better or for Worse

Fantastic technical moves all the way. Start between Cocolossal and Roots on the steep slab. Up past four or five bolts to lower-off.

FA: Jamie Valdivia & Enzo Guarino, 2011

Sport 10m
The Belfry
23 Samarkand

Follow thin cracks (bomber small wires and .3 cam) to the stance on the arete, then harder past 2 bolts to a big finish.

FA: Matt Rogerson & James Rogerson, 25 Jan 2023

Mixed trad 15m, 2
AID:A4+ Return Of The Etrier

A razor thin seam. Start 10m left of the Crystal Voyager arete. The first 10m is fairly overhung using micro cams for the first 3m. The crack then closes to accept small to medium beaks and #1 lost arrows. Climb through the bulge on more beaks and up the vertical wall on more beaks, pin stacks, fixed heads and a few RPs to a slopey mantle on top. Once through the bulge don't zipper any gear as you will bounce off the adjacent car sized boulder at one third height. Grade A4+

FA: Chris Fitzgerald & Nathan Kukathas, 2005

Aid 30m
The Battlements
17 Novichock

The squeeze chimney - messes with your breathing.

FA: B Aikman & G Butler, Dec 2018

Trad 25m
The Breadloaf (bouldering)
V8 Bakers Dozen

On the side that faces down valley, left of the overhanging arete. Stand start on edges up to the mantel on the face.

FA: Andrew Bull, 2008

Boulder
Honeysuckle Crag
18 Space Oddity

Short steep crack climb

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 24 Feb

Trad 8m
Honeysuckle Crag Left Group
11 Small Torque

Looking uphill, this crack is located about 30m below and left of the start of ‘deep space’. Perfect hand and foot jams up the low angled crack.

FA: Cads (solo), 27 May 2018

Trad 8m
Honeysuckle Crag Right Group
15 The Journeymen

The clean cut corner crack 30m uphill from Faded Youth

FA: B Aikman, D McGregor & G Butler, 2019

Trad 6m
20 Vice Squad

The off-width three meters right of Live Injection

FA: B Aikman, 2019

Trad 12m