Routen in Dörenther Klippen

Feels harder if you don't use jamming techniques in the crack.

A classic!

There used to be an easier variant which started 1m right and then joined the main route at the 2nd bolt. this variant avoids the crux and was graded V-

The topos of the most recent editions of the guidebook mix up several routes here, and swap the names.

In the original guidebook Wellenreiter and Plisseewand are two diferent routes with the same start, but different tops.

Through the roof, then up the slab to the lower-off on the right hand side.

Absolute classic. Start directly under the roof near the rusty old ringbolt at ground level.

Head up the slab to a high first bolt, then through the roof and follow the crack to the anchor.

Topo in guidebook does not reflect the original line: start as for Muskelriß then head right to join the route.

Tree on the top can be used to setup top-rope or rappel to clean quick draws

Start in 'No Hands Rest' then follow the prow to the right and exit to the top.

Same as for Gaukler Variante, but at the first bolt go direct (right) ofter the blank area instead of left to the two slots

Start as for Wellenreiter, but where Wellenreiter heads left continue up to the highest anchor.

The topos of the most recent editions of the guidebook mix up several routes here, and swap the names.

Start Abseilwand und nach dem zweiten haken links aussteigen

Previously Route 10

Shares the top with mach mir den horst. Cruxy start with high first bolt.

Start under the small roof. head right and then up onto the small band to clip the 3rd bolt. continue straight up where the bolt is, don't be tempted to cheat by going left or right

An eliminate route near the right corner. To earn a clean ascent you're only allowed to use the main face, not the corner.

Previously Route 9

start at the vertical crack, then left along the horizontal crack to first bolt

Fr 7a+. An eliminate up the overhanging wall without using the ramp for your hands. 3 bolts, 2nd bolt tricky to clip. Easier for the tall.

Fr 7b. Start up Banane to 2nd bolt, then traverse left to finish up Alien.

Start as for Plisseedach, but then trend slightly towards the right on easy climbing until the bolt in the roof... one hard move is all that stands between you and success!

I once heard the crux described as "a vacuum of holds" and that feels about correct. Possibly significantly (?) harder if you're not tall.

Previously Route 7