Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mié 15.º Mayo 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Porto di Santa Maria | |||||||
5c | ★ Matzamureddu - con Nadine Nasch | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
climb this!
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5c | ★★★ Koga - con Nadine Nasch | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
wow, wonderful route, this is soooo good!!
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6b+ ~6c | ★★ Sa mama e su sole - con Nadine Nasch | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
i dunno, but the crux was unsolveable for me. After 10 tries I give up and will come back tomorrow.
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4c ~5a | ★★ Sa mama e su bentu - con Nadine Nasch | 15m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
absolutely nice route,great holes!
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Vie 10.º Mayo 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Villaggio Gallico | |||||||
6c | ★★ Il Gallo Gallico | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Superfun and sustained climbing. Not considering the first half Caio bonus which is quite bad.
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5c+ | ★ Caio Bonus | 15m | Ni te molestes | ||||
Beta spray from two Germans at the start so not really onsight hehe. Terrible route in my opinion. Bouldery unclear start, really uneven.
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6b+ | ★★★ Fon Klappen | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Fun, it gets progressively harder.
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6b | ★★ Beltorax | 27m | Ni te molestes | ||||
Horribly sharp. The two routes to the right are much better!
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Vie 10.º Mayo 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Uttolo | |||||||
6c ~6b+ | ★★ Martan — 2 intentos | 25m | ★ Buena | ||||
A bit unclear line since the wall is quite blank at some point but there are possibilities like 1,5 m to the left and right of the bolts. I went wrong the first try but after finding a way to the right i think the guidebook grade 6b+ can be correct. Maybe some holds have broken closer to the bolt line.
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5c Fácil | ★★ Nanni | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Really good easy route!
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5c | ★ Ala | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
Unstable rocks in the beginning, don't pull too hard on those. Otherwise good route.
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Jue 9.º Mayo 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Campo dei Miracoli Ichnusa | |||||||
6a | ★★ Papo papo | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Really fun climbing
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7a Fácil | ★★ Jackpress | 20m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Second try, yay!
|
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6a | ★ L'astrofisica | 17m | ★ Buena | ||||
A bit scary slab for some reason
|
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Mié 8.º Mayo 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Campo dei Miracoli Ichnusa | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Twich | 15m | ★ Buena | ||||
Weird at the top
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7a Fácil | ★★ Jackpress | 20m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Very pumped, but just one hang. Almost too many holds.
|
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Mié 8.º Mayo 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Campo dei Miracoli Campo dei Miracoli | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ Paperone | 12m | ★ Buena | ||||
Fun, but a bit scary at the top for some reason
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Vie 3.º Mayo 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Crêuza de Mä | |||||||
5c ~6a | ★ Amore che vieni | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Not so obvious dihedral if you stay left of the bolts, nice climb
|
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6a | ★ L'amore cieco | 20m | |||||
Boulder move at start then easy on good holds
|
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6c+ | ★ Volta la carta | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
Difficult start over a bulge after easier
|
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Jue 2.º Mayo 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Mare | |||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Marinaio di Foresta
1
5b
30
2
5c
20
3
6a
35
4
5a
35
5
6a+
30
6
5c+
20
7
5c
20
| 190m, 12 | |||||
Beautiful multipitch over the Mediterranean Sea. Totally worth it!
|
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Mié 1.º Mayo 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Villaggio Gallico | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Per Iuppiter - con Andrea Graf | 20m | |||||
not the cooles‘t thing to do
|
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7b | ★★★ Astronomix - con Andrea Graf | 25m | |||||
2nd go
|
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Mar 30.º Abr 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Villaggio Gallico | |||||||
6b - c ~6c | ★★★ SPQR (Sono Pazzi Questi Romani) | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Beautiful climb on solid rock, slightly technical
|
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5c+ ~6a | ★★★ Abicidix | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice dihedral finishing with a hard move to the anchor
|
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Mar 30.º Abr 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Uttolo | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ No Chance - con Andrea Graf | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice one 🤓 2nd go ☺️ missed one hold in my onsight go
|
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Vie 26.º Abr 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei El Capo | |||||||
7a Fácil | ★★★ Dan | 35m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Bad decision to climb it in one shot. Too much rope drag. But despite that it seems easily possible to climb it red point.
|
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Vie 5.º Abr 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Crêuza de Mä | |||||||
6b Duro | Cintas puestas ★ La ballata dell'eroe | 25m | ★ Buena | ||||
Found the crux really hard, tiny holds, after that easier but a bit exposed.
|
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5c ~5c+ | ★ Amore che vieni | 20m | Medio | ||||
Hard going straight, I went a bit to the right and then traverse left to the dihedral
|
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6a | ★★ Il sogno di Maria | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Really fun, has good holds and it's less steep than what it looks like
|
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Jue 4.º Abr 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Mare | |||||||
6a+ Duro |
★★★ Il Richiamo del Mare
1
4c
25m
2
5a
25m
3
5c
15m
4
5c+
25m
5
4c
10m
6
5c+
20m
7
5c+
15m
8
6a+
30m
9
4b
15m
| 180m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Incredible route by the sea, very abrasive rock, 2 horizontal pitches and then constant vertical climbing. The 6a+ is pretty hard and exposed. Descent walking a bit and then a 30m abseil.
|
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Sáb 23.º Mar 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Mare | |||||||
6a+ Duro | ★★★ Marinaio di Foresta | 190m, 12 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Il primo tiro non è 5B, almeno 5C
|
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Mar 13.º Feb 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Scalette | |||||||
6b Duro | ★★★ Versus - con VV95 | 18m | |||||
Quite hard crux, with several successive hard moves, mainly slaby with small sharp crimps.
|
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6a+ Fácil | ★★ Bellas Mariposas | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
very nice route, quite intense and bouldery up to the 3rd bolt, then it gets easier. Amazing view from the top !
|
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Mié 3.º En 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Villaggio Gallico | |||||||
7c | ★★ Cleopatra | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Amazing route with lovely moves. Will be my project for the next Sardinia visit😃
|
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7a | ★★★ Fakirix | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Clipping the anchor draw was the most difficult move for me 🤦.
Awesome route with tiny holds but good feet positions.
|
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Vie 29.º Dic 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Crêuza de Mä | |||||||
6a | ★★ Amico fragile | 30m | Medio | ||||
One sketchy reach move, rest easy
|
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Mié 27.º Dic 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Scalette | |||||||
6c ~7a | ★★ Ferro Recente | ||||||
Very hard middle section(if you stay in the route). Very crimpy
|
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Dom 3.º Dic 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Mare | |||||||
5c+ ~5c+ |
★★ Signorina Fantasia
1
5b
30m
2
5c+
25m
3
4
20m
4
4
15m
| 90m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Amazing route, not sure why the 3rd pitch is graded harder than the first, it felt like pure scrambling. Struggled to find the path down so rappeled off a tree
|
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Vie 3.º Nov 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Su Telargiu Oro | |||||||
6b | ★★ Adozione a distanza - con Niklas Guenther | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Great warm up!
|
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Vie 3.º Nov 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Punta Giradili | |||||||
7a+ |
★★ Mediterraneo
- con
Fabian Michel
| 240m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Nice Rock, lots of vertical crimpy climbing.
|
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7a+ |
★★ Mediterraneo
- con
Frithjof Winkelmann
| 240m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mostly vertical to slightly inclined climbing on water holes. The crux pitch is overhanging with relatively small crimps.
|
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Jue 2.º Nov 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Mare | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Marco - con Fabian Michel, Frithjof Winkelmann | 95m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Super schöne vorletzte 7a Seillänge. Tolle Wandkletterei.
|
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Jue 2.º Nov 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Punta Giradili | |||||||
7a |
★★★ Sette anni di Solitudine
- con
Klara R
| 390m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Mega classic multi pitch. Relatively steep on almost perfect quality rock for 11 pitches, and even the last two are not bad. Fell in two places because I hadn't considered which holds I wanted to use.
|
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7a |
★★★ Sette anni di Solitudine
- con
Frithjof Winkelmann
1
7a
30m
Starts with some jugs and a crimpy boulder section. Pumpy.
2
6c+
30m
Very nice climbing on grey and sharp rock. Crux traverse in the orange section before the anchor, no footholds.
3
6b+
30m
Steep orange dihedral.
4
6c
35m
Face climbing on grey rock. Sharp.
5
6c+
30m
Ongoing face climb, hardest at the end with very small holds.
6
6a
30m
Easier short pitch.
7
6c+
40m
Awesoooome dihedral, super steep, sometimes great jugs but very pumpy.
8
6b+
25m
Starts very steep with huge jugs, afterwards smooth climbing.
9
6b+
30m
Face climb with sharp holds. Feels like constant acupuncture.
10
6b+
30m
11
6b+
25m
What a pitch. Extremely steep for 6b. So much fun. Huge jugs and interesting rock formations.
12
6a
25m
Can be combined with pitch 13. Easy scramble.
13
5c
30m
| 390m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Without doubt one of the best multi pitches I've ever done. Except for the three easier pitches, every pitch is great and versatile.
|
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7a |
★★★ Sette anni di Solitudine
- con
ToxicD
1
7a
30m
2
6c+
30m
3
6b+
30m
4
6c
35m
5
6c+
30m
6
6a
30m
7
6c+
40m
8
6b+
25m
9
6b+
30m
10
6b+
30m
11
6b+
25m
12
6a
25m
13
5c
30m
| 390m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Probably the best multi pitch I ever climbed.
The best pitches are probably pitch 7 - an amazing overhanging dihedral with lots of jugs - and pitch 11 - an overhang on huge holes.
|
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Mié 1.º Nov 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Mare | |||||||
6b+ Fácil | ★★ Cromosomi Corsari - con ToxicD | 180m, 12 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice route on good rock. Apart from the last pitch it's a bit soft for the grade. Pitch 3 is the best - an exposed traverse on big jugs.
|
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7a |
★★★ Marco
- con
Klara R, Frithjof Winkelmann
| 95m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Amazing climb above the sea, continuously vertical and on good rock.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Cromosomi Corsari
- con
Klara R
| 180m, 12 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Pitches 2, 3 and 6 are excellent. Pitches 4 and 5 should be done in one pitch. Overall very nice and the protection is excellent.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Cromosomi Corsari
- con
Frithjof Winkelmann
6
6b
escalada de primero por
Frithjof Winkelmann
Exposed and steep around the corner, very easy afterwards. | 180m, 12 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Beautiful exposed line on the southwest face of Pedra longa. Relatively easy for the grade compared to the routes on Cala Goritze.
|
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Mar 31.º Oct 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Cala Goloritze (Aguglia) | |||||||
6c+ |
★★★ Il Soffio del Baco
- con
Frithjof Winkelmann
1
6b+
escalada de primero por
Frithjof Winkelmann
Crimpy start and then technical moves with a lot of sideholds.
2
6c+
escalada de primero por
ToxicD
The overhanging crux pitch in orange Rock. Mostly jugs, but until you find the right ones some people might get pumped. Including me.
3
6a+
escalada de primero por
Frithjof Winkelmann
Short overhanging section and then a nice traverse.
4
6b
escalada de primero por
ToxicD
Pretty challenging slab, suddenly the bolt distances are further. Close call.
5
6c
escalada de primero por
Frithjof Winkelmann
We chose to do the last pitch of "" as an alternative to reach the top. Very cool addition to the route, closely bolted. A short Crux section from the huge jug at the second bolt, afterwards easy slab and a juggy overhang with good hand jams. Awesoooome! | 140m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Great climb in a stunning environment. Close to the sea and great views from the top.
Some bolts in the 2nd and most of the top pitches have new bolts. |
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6c+ | ★★★ Il Soffio del Baco - con ToxicD | 140m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Really nice climbing on good rock. The crux pitch is really pumpy!
|
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6c+ |
★★★ Il Soffio del Baco
- con
Klara R
| 140m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Excellent multi pitch with amazing rock quality. I particularly liked the first two pitches on the brown rock.
|
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Mié 11.º Oct 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Porto di Santa Maria | |||||||
5b ~5b+ | ★ Arreyulta | 15m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Schlüsselstelle schwerer als 5b
|
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Mar 10.º Oct 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Scalette | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Bellas Mariposas - con ash malbury | 20m | |||||
GORGEOUS views at the top! One hard move at the bottom then it all flowing
|
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5c+ | ★★ Terra Mala - con ash malbury | 20m | |||||
Spectacular technical crack to bulgy slab
|
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Mié 4.º Oct 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Scalette | |||||||
5a | ★★ Notte Sarda - con Myrjam | 20m | |||||
2nd bolt of top anker is loose, could fail any time
|
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Mar 3.º Oct 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Monte Scoine - Monte d'Oro Monte Scoine | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Mobilita | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Awesome.
|
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6a+ | ★ Mobbing | 37m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Onsight-or-bust, and it was a bust. Oh well. Nice long route
|
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Lun 2.º Oct 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Monte Scoine - Monte d'Oro Monte Scoine | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Straordinario festivo | 33m | ★ Buena | ||||
Thought I was on the 6a+, but alas. Cool route with a couple of committing moves.
|
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Lun 2.º Oct 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Villaggio Gallico | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Il Pianto di Idefix - con Daniela | 35m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Sáb 30.º Sep 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Sistema Solare | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Plutone | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
It's good, but also completely drenched in bird 💩. Fair warning!
|
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6b+ | ★★ Terra | ★ Buena | |||||
Didn't enjoy, but it's okay.
|
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6c | ★★ Cravaci la mano | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Pretty sweet crack. Too tired for the send.
|
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Vie 29.º Sep 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Crêuza de Mä | |||||||
5c | ★ Amore che vieni | 20m | Ni te molestes | ||||
Climbed it years ago... not a must-route
|
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7a | ★★ Franziska — 2 intentos | 25m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Awesome and very various styles. 1st half of the route is def. The 7a section... 2nd half more 6a+/6b'ish.
|
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6a | ★★ Amico fragile | 30m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Fantastic tufa slab. I really enjoyed it, but 6a? Could be underrated...
|
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Vie 29.º Sep 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Mare | |||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Marinaio di Foresta
1
5b
30m
2
5c
20m
3
6a
35m
4
5a
35m
5
6a+
30m
6
5c+
20m
7
5c
20m
| 190m, 12 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
incredible
|
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Vie 29.º Sep 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Alacarta | |||||||
5c+ | The Sims | 10m | |||||
Hard for the grade
|
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5b | Risiko | 10m | |||||
Nice rock
|
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Mié 27.º Sep 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Villaggio Gallico | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Dugagufix — 3 intentos | 30m | |||||
No redpoint, but did all the moves. Nice line and nice moves. Crux at the topboulder around the last set for me. There i got stuck at my last try... grade ok. Ca. 32m and 16 sets.
|
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Mar 26.º Sep 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Scalette | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Dura Madre | 20m | |||||
Nice
|
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6b | ★★★ Versus | 18m | |||||
Hard 6b
|
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5b | ★★ Nuraghe Beach | 12m | |||||
Nice rock
|
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Vie 22.º Sep 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Uttolo | |||||||
5c Duro | ★★ Nanni | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
Slab into crimps and a few jugs. Hard 5c
|
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6b+ | ★★ Peroni | 25m | ★ Buena | ||||
Choss, cracks, slabs, crimps. Varied, okay.
|
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6b | ★ Piggy | 25m | ★ Buena | ||||
A wild time. Varied. Bit sketchy.
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Tomas Birthday | 28m | |||||
Wasn't feeling it. Hannah dogged it to the top though!
|
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Mié 20.º Sep 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Mare | |||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Marinaio di Foresta
1
5b
30m
2
5c
20m
3
6a
35m
4
5a
35m
5
6a+
30m
6
5c+
20m
7
5c
20m
| 190m, 12 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
The view is stunning, the climbing is great. What a nice day out!
|
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Mar 19.º Sep 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Cala Goloritze (Aguglia) | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Easy Gymnopedie - con Ryan Instone | 160m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very good climb can make it in 3 pitches if you are happy skipping bolts and take 14 qds
|
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Jue 14.º Sep 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Crêuza de Mä | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | Zirichiltaggia — 2 intentos - con Nadclimbs | 20m | Ni te molestes | ||||
I don't know if it was the humidity and/or the heat, but the start on crimps was nails.
|
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7a Duro | ★★ Franziska — 2 intentos - con Nadclimbs | 25m | ★ Buena | ||||
Climbing in the clouds did not help with the slopey crux. Quite nice sequence though!
|
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6b+ | Zirichiltaggia - con fifithekiki | 20m | |||||
Hard crimpy start..
|
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5c Duro | ★ Amore che vieni - con fifithekiki | 20m | |||||
Nice interesting climb for the grade!
|
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Jue 7.º Sep 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Cala Goloritze (Aguglia) | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★★ Easy Gymnopedie - con fifithekiki | 160m | |||||
Quite slippery at the start. A bit spaced bolting but Im not used to multipitch style!
|
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Lun 28.º Ag 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Villaggio Gallico | |||||||
6c+ Duro | ★★ Il Pianto di Idefix - con Nadclimbs | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
too hot and humid, didn't feel like climbing it.
|
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6a+ Duro | ★★ Yellow Submarine - con Nadclimbs | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Quite nice physical climbing on obvious crack. Felt harder than 6a+ with the humidity.
|
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6c+ Duro | ★★ Il Pianto di Idefix - con Nadclimbs | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
toprope to clean. Just too humid
|
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5c | ★★ Miraculix - con fifithekiki | 10m | |||||
Nothing special! Good to warm up
|
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Mar 15.º Ag 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Scalette | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ Terra Mala | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Tiro magnifico, merita di essere fatto.
|
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Dom 25.º Jun 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Scalette | |||||||
6b Duro | ★★ Paese D'Ombre | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Steep and bouldery near the top, really fun moves.
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6a+ Fácil | ★★ Bellas Mariposas | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Great scenic climb, good photo ops
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Mar 30.º Mayo 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Campo dei Miracoli Campo dei Miracoli | |||||||
5c - 6a | ★★★ Qua - con HowC | 20m | |||||
Mehr Routen als im Buch "Pietra di luna". Daher nicht sicher was wir wirklich geklettert sind.
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5b | ★★ Quo - con HowC | 20m | |||||
Mehr Routen als im Buch "Pietra di luna". Daher nicht sicher was wir wirklich geklettert sind.
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5b | ★★ Qui - con HowC | 20m | |||||
Mehr Routen als im Buch "Pietra di luna". Daher nicht sicher was wir wirklich geklettert sind.
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Jue 4.º Mayo 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Pedra Longa Settore Mare | |||||||
6b+ ~6c+ | ★★ Cromosomi Corsari - con Wojjy | 180m, 12 | ★ Buena | ||||
It was not a day planned for multi-pitching but we decided to give it a go as the wind was blowing hard at Dinopark. There is this multipitch route Luke wanted to do but we didn't have internet so we did not look up info on the crag. I thought, it was a 6b+ with 6 pitches in the shade and protected from the wind, and I am not leading, it would be a good day out.
When we got to the single bolt abseil at the decent approach, I felt like it was dodgy but went with it anyways. I kicked off some lose sand and block on the way down the abseil but we were wearing helmets and everything was ok. Route finding was not easy as we didn't know the name of the route and we only took a photo of route on the guidebook. On the photo the line was in the shadow, and because of perspective it looked like it goes quite straight up in the guide. Anyways we decided to do one of the lines on the left because the hardest pitch of either routes is supposed to be around 6b+/6b. The first 3 pitches were cool. We were climbing in the sun but the shade should come in soon. The 2nd pitch felt difficult so we must be on the correct route (the alternative is a 4b). The 3nd pitch was exposed is interesting. By the end of the 3rd pitch we understood that the climb will not get in the shade, we were getting sun burnt but its ok as we are half way! On the 6th pitch, as Luke climb further up, I couldn't hear or see him at all so I fed the 72m rope through the belay device and than yelled at each other without hearing anything. We obviously didn't think this would happen but after a while I decided finally to take him off belay and started climbing. I was worried because I didn't know if I was on belay, but I can feel that the rope is being taken up slowly. I clipped myself onto the bolts with my safety and gather courage to unclip and move up. When I got to the traverse cruz I couldn't commit because really, don't know if I'm on belay, so i yelled take. With relief I was taken in! We can finally sort of hear each other and I am on belay! So I climbed on. When I got to the anchors of pitch 6 I was disappointed to learn that it wasn't the last pitch. Pitch 7, then must be the crux pitch. I felt quite disappointed as the moves were so hard and crimpy that I had to pull on the rope (I later learnt that the crux hold is broken, I feel like the moves now are way harder than 6b+). Anyhow, we got to the top. The sun is still on us and we were quite dishydrated. The decent was more difficult than anticipated. Luckily we found the rap anchors but we didn't rap down far enough so we have to use a tree to rap further... anyhow we got out. It was a long day in the full sun, was it worth it? Yes! But I wish I had prepared for it better, at least I wish I have read up some info about it on the crag! |
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6c |
★★ Cromosomi Corsari
- con
Heidixe
1
5c+
2
6a+
3
6b
4
4c
5
5b
6
6b
7
6c
| 180m, 12 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Super adventurous day out with Heidixe
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Mié 3.º Mayo 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Villaggio Gallico | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Edapietrix | 25m | ★ Buena | ||||
Sehr schwer für 6c+
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Lun 1.º Mayo 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Baunei Braccio di Ferro | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Poldo — 2 intentos - con Wojjy | 25m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Very ecool, figured out all the move except the wide span from the pocket going left.
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8a | ★★★ Poldo - con Heidixe | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
The best line at the crag.
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