Ascensões em Oceania tendo Beta

This, as a single pitch, is one of the best pitches of climbing in the multiverse. This should NEVER be broken up into two pitches: why spoil a perfect pitch? I would have chopped the superfluous midway anchors during my onsight free solo but I forgot to bring my crowbar that day.

Good and sustained

2 or 3 cruxy moves, one blind dyno makes this one a really good line

Troposimul

Pigs are pumped

Pretty fun start, also diiiiirty up top

Bit dirty

This was a better warm up and easy climbing. Quite enjoyable looking back at the dam. Lots of ants up at the anchor. This one shares an anchor with the climb to its right. This is graded harder than ‘Attack of the Marshmellows’ somehow.

This was the best climb we’ve done. Lots of great holds and a nice heel hook at the beginning. Definitely made us realise how valuable a stick clip would be. Off to buy one this week lol. Didn’t fall at all on this route but had to take about 4 tests on the rope. Not used to outdoor vertical climbing …

Climbed at the end of the day and was a bit tired. Ended up going off route twice and clipping into bolts on my right after some two finger pocket pulls. I had to take off my gear and down climb a bit to get back on route. Also ran out of draws on my rhs of harness so had to take a fall when clipping second bolt on vertical section which stuffed me.

Was a great climb but ended up calling it and left a Mallon on one of the hangers. Will be back to give it another go now I know where the route is.

Warm up for the day. We haven’t done many outdoor climbs and are only comparing to andromeda and the climbs of the day here but this climb is surely harder than 15. It was very awkward at times and the face climbing at the top was a bit confronting for a new lead climber. Two small holds to lean across to a far right foot. It was also hard to top rope with the offset anchor.

Still a good climb and was more mentally challenging than anything.

Cracker sunset, fluorescent pinks and oranges accompanied by singing lyrebirds in the valley below - magic. Hung the draws then fell off the last move, really like this route

Found this easier than some of the 19s, tho that's probably height dependant

Classic pumpy jugs

Pretty tricky!

The worm on a razor of canberra

All clean to anchor, just did not want to commit to clipping them. Found a toe hook to clip them after sitting. Serious fun

Got ratatouilled up the route by Rob's beta because I hadn't worked out the moves. Couldn't have done it without the help, thank you guys

Route starts from the overhang. Sustained from here to the chains. Bouldery compression movement with delicate feet. Unique for Car Crash. Hard at the grade.

Highly suggest stick clipping the first bolt from the ledge out left unless of course you want to do it pure ground up. Route essentially starts when your at the overhang.

Despite impeccable crack technique, I nearly fell at the top, very good

The most fun I've ever gad on a 9, extremely scary with great moves. You could definitely protect it better than I did but looking down a few metres at a shit white tricam gets the heart pumping

One move wonder, but pleasant moves on interesting and great rock.

Great problem that is unsuspectingly long! Great work Nick!

Back to basics.

Back to basics! Surprisingly sweaty/hot rock despite to cool air temps. Humid air and a sunny day I guess.

Tough couple of moves off the ledge. Blue totem saving the ankles 💪

Cruxy thing makes sense now, the new journey is whether I can send the rest without being too pumped

Finally figure out all the move.

Repeat

21most of the route + one 24 move

Very hard, very bold.

Haven’t fought this hard on an 18 in years. I’ve climbed easier 21s.

Quite the brutal warm up getting into some really crouched positions to get wires out. One of the great crack test pieces at frog

Feels about V3/V4 so maybe 23/24?

After the lead burn with multiple sits Sam gave me his right foot Egyptian drop knee beta and this climb was a totally different experience. Like apples to oranges

Really messed up the right foot beta and needed quite a few sits working it out. Find this style quite hard to work out

Draws on and figuring out the moves on the first lap.

Sent on second go / first red point attempt, wasn’t expecting it but the moves weren’t too hard?

Quite comfortably

Still working out the beta.

Fun climb

First go today, I tried it 7 years ago; did say I’ll eventually head back to send it!

Easy start, tricky middle, must’ve read it a bit wrong because I was mega stretched out!