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Estoy de acuerdo
A giant mutated bird. Pronounce the name with a Japanese accent whilst doing the crux moves for full value.
Long draws good + at least two single length sling runners. Starts off the middle of the middle ledge. Short powdered wall start to small dirty ledge - then swing out roof leftwards (chain permadraw) then up long sustained face. The hardest stuff is in the first 20m but there are still some things to think about up there somewhere. Belay on small ledge about 20m below the top of the cliff - scramble off to the left as per standard exit (ropes/rungs/radness etc).
A punchy Roof boulder start (The first ascensionist ripped off the jug and decked after the FA) leads to endless climbing on the excellent orange rock into the technical flake and mono crux.
Pack 30 quickdraws and an optional red cam or green cam.
longer draws after the flake crux greatly reduce the drag.
Can also be climbed from the crimps at the lip of the roof at grade 24.
Multipitch adventure - described by first ascentist as "I think there's a few scary runout bits in the middle that I thought might spice it up. And a hard move at the bottom- I'd rapped from the top so I might have cheated with some extended draws at the start. I remember the glue wasn't really dry on the first few bolts so I might have tied them off to the rap rope "just in case"! Probably worth bringing some trad as well then! Starts up black arete (ubolts and rusty carrots). Grade is suspect until further repeats.