线路 in Northern Walls

Start: Scramble up and left 60m from Knights Mare.

1. 27m (-) Corner to tree.

2. 33m (16) Corner to bulge. Around this on right wall then corner and chimney.

Start: On wall, just right of "Achilles Crack".

1. Wall to ledge and boulder belay.

2. (crux) Right to overhanging corner then piton belay.

3. Traverse by crawling left through slot (Can it get any worse!? -Ed). Rusted remains of piton belay.

4. Up wall to tree.

5-7) Up slightly right to ledge and rotten buttress above to top.

"A good climb up a steep direct line." [JME]

Start: 300m left of landslide at crack running right to the top of a broken black wall.

1. Wall and scrub to tree belay at base of crack.

2. (crux) Wall to top of chimney, around overhang into crack above and tree belay.

3. Over overlap up rotten rock to rock belay.

4. Crack and chimney-gully to tree belay on ledge.

5. "A small cliffline above provides interest."

"A one pitch climb and that could probably be avoided." [JME]

Start: To left of "Achilles Crack"

1. 30m (crux) Up to bolt before bulge, left across overhang then left to tree. 2-5) 80m Easy climbing as you will to the top.

"Garbage Gully is the gully between Apollo to the left and "Knight's Mare" to the right." [JME] (Or it was in 1967 - Ed.)

Start: 3-400 yds left of "Achilles Crack"

1. "90' Hand traverse for 15' across to stream and scramble up through stream and round to right hand wall and tree belay." [BA] (See, it did get worse!! - Ed.)

2. 90 ' traverse 30' right to wall then back left to crack.

3. 90' Continue crack above to gully and block belay.

"A great climb, one of the best on the cliff. Exposed and sustained wall climbing. Bloody good. Excellent rock." [JME]

Start: The climb takes a line up the great black wall left of the creek where Apollo starts. Scramble up 30m from left to scrubby ledge.

1. (crux) 25m Straight up near centre of wall below small break in overhangs (Ewbank, Zemek 1964) or original start diagonally up from the right.

2. Traverse left to bolt belay.

3. 30m Up slight ramp left then straight up to bolt in cave. "Good view" [JME]

4. Out of cave via wall on right and up slight overhang to tree belay on ledge.

"One of the longest climbs on the cliff, and undoubtedly the most rotten. Absolutely appalling. A masterpiece of decaying chunder, mank and rubbish." [JME]

Start: At a creek, normally with water flowing. A huge black wall to the left.

1. Across waterfall to ledge ...

2. Up a series of rotten yellow walls, into and out of caves. .. Take an ice axe.

5-7) Minor improvements to top

Nice pumping up a long wall. Walk about 5 minutes (300m) left of Whymper. After you drop down into a 3rd red shale cave, the route starts 30m further on, at the base of an undercut buttress, marked by a cairn. If you reach a wet gully you've gone 40m too far (This may be Garbage Gully).

1. 35m 19 Either hard start or step off tree then up easing wall. A few loose holds here, take helmets!

2. 30m 18 Up steep orange wall and right to slab. Walk to belay on wall right of cave. 3 rings so you can space yourselves.

3. 25m 20 Up thin slab and roof.

4. 10m 10 Up dirty slab, left to ledge, belay here so the secondcan see the leader on the next pitch

5. 10m 17 one move tricky wall.

Walk-off: Walk away from the cliff and slightly left (ENE) to a small tree 15m back from the cliff edge with a white tag. Veer right to next tag then up till you cross a walking track. Turn right and 5 minutes walk takes you past the top of Sweet Dreams and back to the carpark.