Ascensiones de Magic Light

warm up

warm up

2 arvos of rock climbing at smith rock. First time on conglomerate rock. First time trying to spell conglomerate. Definitely a tough place to try onsighting stuff but if you lower your grade expectations it feels like a great challenge trying to suss the pockets and millions of sequence combinations while the pump builds. This route was by far the best one i tried, a number of dihedral switches and long, balancy lateral movements that never felt contrived. Also almost came off it several times so felt good to clip the chains. Anything harder than 11a unfortunately felt like abuse to my fingers or too shouldery. Some very nice team sunset dinners in the carpark with the euros (when they werent on spanish time eating at 11pm)

Nice route with far moves, quite exhausting 😃

Excellent route - not very crimpy, unlike many of the routes in Smith Rock.

Just barely missed the onsight of this beast. Great technical face climbing with tricky moves throughout. Looking forward to Round 2.

Hardest 11a ever?

Went to ththe wrong crimp at bolt four and fudged it.

5.11a

Best 11 at Smith!!!!

Super Climbing. Need to go back to redpoint!!