Hilfe

Cave Cliff

  • Bewertungskontext: AU
  • Begehungen: 468

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

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Beschreibung

a bunch of small crags which have a bunch of good routes not far from the car (10-15mins). They are generally well protected from the rain.

Please note that camping is currently banned by Parks 'Victoria'.

© (jgoding)

Einschränk. übernommen von Golton Rocks

On the urgent "to be reviewed asap" list.

Zustieg

2.2km East of the Telecom tower and 2.7km West of Golton Gorge you will find two dirt tracks on the south side of the 'Henry Bolte' 'Highway'. Park here (S36 53.949 E142 24.980) and walk uphill towards the attractive orange wall. Bop through the cave or around the left hand side and you'll be standing under the main wall.

© (jgoding)

Ethik übernommen von Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

I bet every climber looks at this line, then keeps walking to the rings waiting beyond! The massive roof out the left side of the main access cave. RP's to #4 cam required. Could possibly go free. To descend (2nd pitch), escape up chimney, or climb crack on the left wall.

Erstbegehung: Goshen Watts & Richard Lodge, 2013

Funky hugging.

Start: 'Arete' at far left end of main wall, and 2m left of 'Two Face'.

Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

Bolted line left of Batman & Robin. 5 bolts.

Erstbegehung: Steve Kelly, 2007

Good climbing up a flake line with a touch of boldness - especially getting to the first bolt.

Start: Starts around 5m from the left side of the main wall below two RBs. First ascent was done by the guy sadly lost his life on the first solo kayak journey across the Tasman.

Erstbegehung: Andrew MacAuley, Peter Cunningham & Phil Robinson, 1989

Link-up sport route. Avoids the potentially dangerous start on Batman and Robin. Start up 'Boy Wonder' to third FH. Traverse left 2m to join Batman and Robin. Up the corners past 2 RB. From jug, traverse left past FH to lower off at 'Two Face'.

A worthwhile linkup if you are too weak to wear your undies on the outside. Start up 'Boy Wonder' to clip its fifth FH. Traverse left into Batman and Robin. Up past RB then left past FH to 'Two Face' lower off.

Excellent climbing on immaculate rock.

Start: 1m left of Gotham City. The subtle weakness on the steep orange wall between Batman and Robin and Gotham City.

Erstbegehung: Ingvar Lidman, 2007

Slinky face climbing also dealing with the best moves on Gotham City. A great linkup.

Start: Start as for 'Boy Wonder'

Erstbegehung: Ingvar Lidman, 2007

Sustained, steep and classy. Deservedly popular.

Start as for 'Cromagnon Man' which is initialed (around 5m right of Batman and Robyn which is also initialed).

Getting the draws off this route can be problematic, because it is quite steep, so once you remove the last draw you tend to go pinging off into a dead tree (not fun!). The best option to clean (other than top-roping) is to thread your rope though a malleon left on one of the bolts halfway up the route; unfortunately a lot of people who are new to climbing frequent this route and they think a crappy malleon is the best bootie ever and it keeps getting taken (quite annoying!). So please leave the malleon there if you come across it

Erstbegehung: Josef Goding, 2007

Porly protected.

Start: Initialed with white paint. Up short corner, traverse about 5m right on ledge (at 2m). Up corner/ flake and wall above. Walk off.

Erstbegehung: Peter Cunningham, Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb, Phil Robinson & Tony Wilson, 1989

no idea about this one as no-one I know has repeated it. Looks old school

Start: Starts 15m right of CROMAGNON MAN at the base of the layback crack to the left of the overhanging off-width.

Erstbegehung: Phil Robinson, Peter Cunningham & Andrew Macauly, 1989

"Because it's close to camp". 'Steep' trad. Good gear but some debatable rock quality at the start.

Start: About 3-5m right of 'Meanderthal Man'.

Erstbegehung: 2007

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Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): Steve Toal

Datum: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(en): Steve Toal

Datum: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(en): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Datum: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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Fr 2 Jun
Finde heraus, was in Cave Cliff passiert.

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