Begehungen in Hohe Nase als Onsight

not a real onsight, cause I knew the lower part already from the route to the right. the traverse was again challenging for me, also the stepout to the balcony. not the best route here, but still worth a try...

I'm giving this a very good rating but I won't hand out a recommendation for the original first pitch. I climbed the original line, up and left into the cave, then a traverse to the right below the roof to the belay. This turned out to be so much more chossy than I had anticipated. Maybe it's better to climb it at temperatures below zero so everything's frozen together …. But even then, the sand on the ledge below the roof in the traverse remains. The second pitch, however, is indeed superb climbing. Overhanging in good rock, with a crux below the book. Again some hollow flakes before the anchor, but not too bad. Quite the alpine endeavour, but probably more rewarding nowadays with the new direct start (via "Auf Sand gebaut"), which looked much more solid on the abseil. Thanks Bovist for enduring the pain and seconding the first pitch. Oh, and 7- is quite the joke. Well … "classical" grading. I won't argue.

One of the best classic routes! you will have to work hard for the grad 7-...