Begehungen in Oceania als verschiedene Ticktypen

Gave it a couple attempts. Felt really good on the crux move hitting it but not holding it. Tried the top as well.

Great to pull onto, but requires work. Awesome soggy-footed sesh.

Breakthrough session. Worked the crux in iso, managed to get it twice in a row from the bottom - just the heel plinging off on the mantle now - haven’t done antiquity in a little while ha ha.

Incredible moves, skirted around the crux. Dynoing to the pinch was mega!

trangdog

hahahahahahahahahah

More progress in a quick after work session. Good conditions this arvo. Need spotters to try the top.

Pumpy! Avoided the foot slip, but fell off the final traverse. Massive smile on my face by the finish

I broke a jug before the first bolt that is key for the route. I met some locals at the crag who told me that they would glue it back. Please do not climb this route until it's repaired. I have just added a warning on the crag.

Few burns on TRS. Feels cruisy. Frustrating couple of slips on my 2 send goes after dialling beta. Figured out much more stable beta that’ll go easily. Nothing feels particularly cruxy but no clue how it’d go having to clip draws. Fighting the urge to dog & downgrade but I’ll save that for the redpoint.

Blew it just past the crux with a beautiful clean whipper. Stunning line!

Just one more hard move in the V9 boulder start to sort out. Good climbing!

Ohhh so close to a clean run, just slipped near the top. Great climb. Probably on lead next time.

Really not too hard and I know all the moves, was convinced I could do it without a rest this time... and I probably could have. Next time.

Finally pulled the lower crux, sorted clipping beta for the upper.

All a bit desperate compared to early summer. Back to gym for me..

Didn't unlock the heel move but linked from 2nd to the chains. Cool moves

Dam foot pop will get it next time, fun movements through one hardish crux then 2 more moves before easing off till the top

Jumped on the route cause it looked really well bolted and was keen for something chill. Good time working the beta and enjoying the moves on the way up. Pulled over the top onto the slab and was greeted with a nice shiny bail biner in my face. “Aha!” I thought. Some chump couldn’t handle the smoke and now I reap the rewards. I snatched it eagerly. I then spent the next 15 minutes yoyoing up and down the start of the slab nervously looking up at the blank wall it’s a distinct lack of bolts. Eventually someone wanders over to tell up to me that the anchors are just over the lip and while it’s runout it’s pretty easy. Now I have to do it. I’m better then red biner bailer I tell myself. I head up and I’m pleased to find it’s pretty easy. I get a bit higher. Bit harder now, I start to look at the last bolt nervously. Higher still, now I’m in the shadow of the spotlights. I take a shaking hand off a sweaty smear to turn my head torch brighter. It flashes angrily at me, no dice. I can’t even see my belayer anymore. I’m climbing in a faint bubble of light, I could be 3m runout or I could be 30, either way I’m convinced I’ll die if I fall. The holds slowly get worse - retreat is no longer an option. I’m at the event horizon. My mind goes blank. Suddenly a carat bolt appears in front of my eyes. I shakily grab an extender off my harness and limply sling it over the metal. Only half the sling bites in. I know any slight gust of wind will pull it off. I look ahead over the lip and see the anchors almost within reach. One hard move separates me from safety. I take a deep breath…. … … Right foot up. Smear reminiscent of dawn wall foothold. Right hand up. Left hand up. I yell down to my belayer to stop spinning the twister wheel so fast. I blow the dust off the sloped that I’m clinging to and promise myself that if I get out of this alive I’ll take up a safer sport like ice climbing or perhaps wingsuit base jumping. With shaking legs I pull over the lip, frantically grab a draw from my harness and clip the anchors.

Great route would recommend. Probably go next time. Bit spooky at the top but worth it! Maybe a bit soft for 22, could be 21.

No wonder the grading is all over the place. This climb is super height dependent. If you can grab the first hold with only two stacked blocks at the most, the climb will be mostly fine. If you need three stacked blocks, it's going to feel waaaay harder. I needed three lol. The crux isn't the hole, it's grabbing the pinch crimp a bolt beneath it, and then being able to use it to hop to the crimp rail above it. I could barely reach the crimp pinch even with an unnaturally high feeling right foot, and then I was completely starfished out. Maybe a dyno to the crimp to skip the pinch?

Red point attempts, fell off end of crux first go, then tried to clip too early second go and didn't have a draw haha. Felt amazing to get the crux move dialled- it's eluded me for so long.

Third session on the beast - TR solo. Pulled through first crux, but burned up and fell on the second part of the first crux (or is this considered the second crux?). First time pulling through the whole bulge crux. Spent most of the session working the top section. Will need a good rest after the bulge. Pieced together all the moves, not sure if it is the best beta- has a real heartbreaker final move to the chains.

Weak as piss on this one today.

Went up to have a play and figured a few things out. Could be a contender for a winter project.