Routen in Oceania für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

The chimney on the south-west side of the outcrop.

The scrubby corner.

This was originally called Sage but as there is already a real climb of that name at Arapiles it has been altered.

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. 4 metres right of the overhang, follow crack to the right of hanging boulder, finish up to gap in blocks. Scramble off to right.

The line starting just left of Charity

Ramble up the low angled buttress.

Start: Start at the next buttress R from T.

The challenge of this old route, should you choose to accept it, is working out where it goes.

Start as for 'Radish'.

1. 36m (5) Up the easy corner and then traverse right around the buttress to the next line. Up this, or face on left to next ledge.

2. 24m (5) Climb short corner then step left and traverse left below overhangs to belay.

3. 15m (5) Traverse left again under bulge and up through weakness(this is probably a few metres left of the second pitch of Shaggy's Route) to a ledge level with the Eagle's Nest, a prominent nose of rock to the right. Now left and up again to the next ledge.

4. 15m (5) Up wall to a huge ledge with buttresses rising on both sides.

5. 30m (5) Up by the lefthand buttress, The Belvedere, and up to join 'Syrinx'. Scramble off right.

Easy chimney immediately right of "Cranky Babies", finishing up right wall.

Start up the South Pacific corner, then take the right-hand line past an unusual rock crypt.

Walk through to the back of the gully where the floor ends at an edge. Up into a scoop in the right wall, then rightwards up ramp and corner. Exit left to belay on boulder ledge. Be wary of the rock. Descent: scramble through (suggest staying roped up) to the rap chains above Fly By Night.

An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world

Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.

1. 43m 3 step onto ridge and up

2. 27m 5 up and over pinnacle

3. 20m 4 up wall to big ledge on right

4. 30m 5 head on up

The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'.

The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed.

Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree.

2. 40m (2) Up the easy face left of the scrubby gully to large ledge.

3. 35m (5) Directly up face until about 8 metres below the Eagle's Eyrie (prominent cave). Traverse 8m metres left, passing under roof and up to ledge level with the Eagle's Eyrie. Climbing direct to the Eagle's Eyrie and then traversing left is grade 10

4. 35m (4) Step left and up chimney right of 'Tiptoe Ridge', joining that route near the top.

Not really a climb, just an escape route. The diagonal ramp leading right from the base of the 'Siren' corner.

Botanical line behind large dead tree at right end of 'Rotten Row'.

Chimney line 6 metres right of 'Tschumpel'

Follow arete all the way to top.

Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete.

Pleasant easy climb up a great line. Left facing stepped corner left of the bulging wall with Lou and Evelyn.

Pad up the centre of the lovely clean slab left of Silver Bullet.

Start 3m left of the right-side of the slab, 4 metres right of 'First Noel' at a broken crack in a very small left facing corner.

The right hand rib of the chimney.

Crack/ corner right of scrubby descent gully, left of FH's. Start 1m. left of 2FH's. Bridge between crack & sidewall, exit through V brake at top of crack.

3m. right of K. the arête. use boulder to gain arête, move up this to jugs and over top. belay from top of K.

The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'.

Gross black chimney.

Start: The chimney just R of the 'Jug City' diagonal.

Start: Start from the ground, 13m L of 'Handles'.

1. 15m (5) Juggy gutter to large ledge.

2. 15m (5) The juggy face left of 'Silk Purse', move R towards the top.

2m R of Momentary etc. Up to the scoop, then up.

5m right of Drop Tail

3m right of Two Fern. Crack.

Hardly worth recording. Possibly climbed by a touron in the dim dark past.

Start: Start at the right hand end of 'Red Wall' about 20m right of Vandles. 'Obvious' scoop in grey rock with huge jugs. Follow scoop to top.

9m right of AA and 4m left of gully. Initialled

Start at large flake on cliff about 50m left of water (water? What water?). Wall to right side of flake, then chimney.

Middle of wall, topout on jug to the right.

Climb up the crack on the right-hand side to a ledge at 6m height, then go left and up the crack.

The steep juggy line 1m left of Impudent.

The easy option. Along the top of the cliff between the Northern Cliff and the descent gully to the Main Cliff is an isolated block. Up to and up the easy chimney on the Northern face.

An easy climb on good rock in a nice position. The arête forming the left hand end of Billy Goat Point. About 5m left of the split blocks.

Start: 2m R of 'The Milkshake'

1. 21m (5) Front of L corner of buttress.

2. 15m (5) Short wall, scramble to next face, climb R crack.

Start: From the small tree 6m up the right arete.

1. -m (-) go left from the ledge, up 6m, back right and up corner through blocks.

2. 36m (-) Up past bush on right, traverse left on to side of arete, diagonally across steep slab and up to small pinnacle.

3. 42m (-) Walk off pinnacle and scramble up until above trees

4. 42m (-) Left into V-gully and traverse on to side of arete. Up face to sloping ledge.

5. 42m (-) Up

They don’t get better than this. The easiest way to the top. Single RB lower-off.

The crack right of the right-hand arete of the outcrop.

Path of least resistance left of "Not Raving But Climbing" and right of the arete right of "Wimp's Picnic".

Reported as dangerously loose by the FA party.

Start: Start below a large roof which is a prominent feature of the crag (VRG)

1. 35m (5) Up the line to a perched boulder. Back off a little and go up the right-hand crack to a large ledge on the right.

2. 35m (5) Climb up to the roof. Back off a little and traverse right instead and finish up the wall right of the roof on awesome jugs.

Arete and wall 3 metres left of "Urchin" and crawl through a slot. Now slab on left.

Crouch start on lowest part of lip near cliffline. Rising traverse on lip all the way to the highest point meeting with J.S Memorial Choss

Up line, step right to dodge gumtree (probably not any longer), then up.

Start: Start at juggy line 3 metres left of "Pangur Ban" on north-facing wall. This used to be 2 metres right of a large gumtree, but that has now fallen over and lies across the base of the climb.

Not very well protected The wall and flake just left of Vanya Was A Black Feral Cat In Drag.

Good. Much better protection than Nice Puss Climb the wall midway between two flake lines to a crack at half-height. Finish up the crack.

The far left arete.

The grey slab visible uphill from "The Mountain Lion".

Climb the central crack on the juggy wall.

Start: Starts at the slabby buttress at the right hand end of the upper tier. The route Air Raid is almost certainly a repeat of this climb.

Gravelly. Stand-start on the left arete and climb toward the right then up.

Nice looking feature but on poor rock. Crouch-start in scoop and move directly up.

Slightly harder. Crouch-start, move toward the right, and up.

Sit-start on left arete and move direct up the highest point. Don't escape left.

Heavily featured slab. Ascend direct.

Beautiful rock slab with great holds. Stand-start and follow the crack up and left. Bonus points for using the underclings in the crack.

Beautiful arete with great holds. Stand-start and follow the left arete until the centre and top out.

Gain the low crack then onto and left up slab direct.

Low angle orange slab immediately right of Flakeridge Slab, veering too far right lowers the grade.

From the whitish left corner move up direct.

Climb as for Ramp exiting slightly right.

Up the wide chimney, onto large chockstone then up handcrack on left to top.

Climb the slopey arete.

Climb the good rock (its orange) up the pillar.

Slab on the right hand side...use the arete!

Fun little kiddie climb sticking to the left of the Slab. Use double U-bolts set back from the edge.

Can be used as a Abseil

Sit start. Short very easy arete. Gold... waist high!

Stand-start. Jugs everywhere.