Ascensiones en Blackheath Area como Tick o First ascent

Fingerry as ever!

Had to aid to bolt 3 after the rain. Super nice above that!

3 fitness laps (not clean)

Warmup

There happened to be a party on Clockwork Orage when we rocked up, so did the first pitch of this to kill the time.

Despite the description, the “bolted belay” of the adjacent route is actually 2 carrots… so lowered Aidan and then down-led the pitch. Cleaned up an old stuck sling in the process too, which literally pulled apart in my hands.

Quick run at the end of the day to set up a top rope.

Warmup

All time mega classic. A solid effort to get up this thing, everything you’ve heard is true. P2 is crazy crimpy and consistently committing. P3 is scary and committing to the wet crux with bad fall potential was an exercise in sphincter clenching. Leading the first 3 cooked me and Louie took the reigns for 4 and 6 while I managed to deliriously onsight my way back to the car and a few beers.

This is a great route! Two long sustained pitches with good rock (for the Blueys), fine wall climbing to begin with then the airy and committing arete. Definitely three stars. Don't be fooled like I was last time with Lisa Vitaris when we believed the guide book, went 50m from Serendipitous Crack and got sandbagged on Remembering McKinnon ( The climb starts up a short corner below a roof-let then moves out right of the arete and up the wall.

Went straight up this time, the route felt really nice and solid that way. Always a good warmup.

This is epic! It rained slightly on pitch 4, so we did the last pitch of Weld Party to get out and avoid the route finding. Coming out of the box to climb pitch 2 was pretty fun!

Warm up

Another few laps on it, and finally a clean lap after the finger injury! Feeling good.

It works out to be a nice warmup (clean), and checked the extension moves once I was up there.