Vías como deportiva en Blackheath Area

Left arete of big wall. All ringbolts.

1. 20m (18)- Hard for grade for first two bolts, consider a big stick to stick clip 2nd ring. Then long pointless runout to 3rd ring. Belay from chains in cave and move belay 10m R to rings at waist level.

2. 15m (12) heave ho up and then L to arete and rings in cosy cave.

3. 25m (18) up arete to rings at top.

Can just rap to first chain belay ledge from top anchor with single 60m rope, and then on to ground.

1. 25m (16) Ringbolts on R side of arete. Ignore first set of DBB on pillar at 10m, these are for GL. Optional #1 cam eliminates runout to anchor.

2. 25m (13) Continue up arete to ledge below roof.

3. 25m (19) Through roof, then L across face to surf over exciting and exposed, leaning arete. Anchor well back on ledge (best to rap, not lower).

Slab, right of Mr Big.

Add a grade or so if you stay on line.

Has an extra ring as a variant. (Long story). And shares lower offs with Cold Finger.

Arete on rings right of CA. Has lower offs.

Gently overhanging L hand arête.

Best of the short routes. Follows a series of subtle scoops up the nice orange wall right of the arete. Quite pumpy compared to the rest of the wall.

Dyno start off glued up sidepull then easily until it's not.

Start off block right of Oh! James. Nails thin crimps - most think this is a total sandbag.

Starts as for Plenty O'Toole, up and right. Needs a few bolts.

Extension of Plenty O'Toole.

The walking track arrives here.

The name is wrong

Furthest right of the bolted routes. Rightward trending line above where the approach track reaches the cliff. Grade 24 in the Carter guide. This is the only way of doing the excellent Octopussy extension.

Mega. The extension to Thunderball up the bolted crackline. 50m rope fine for lower-off.

The face right of Octopussy

A moderate-grade headwall pitch above The Phoenix, with WILD exposure! (Just forget about the average first pitch).

Can be climbed via the proper First Pitch, or can be easily abseiled into from the top. See notes for The Phoenix area.

P1 - 20m (15) The Access Pitch. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall).

P2 - 25m (21) The Money Pitch. Up flake, hand traverse left, then up past 8 bolts with monsterous exposure but no really hard moves. Belay on obvious rap anchors back from edge, or lower off. Some choss still to go, but 90% good rock.

EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your second, and walk directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

Same start as BmaP but continue on straight up through great face/slab climbing easing significantly towards the top. No lower-off - top belay.

4m R of arete. Batman start, then up through orange rock, through rooflet to great, reachy crux. Follow the blockish arete before joining tFoWF for the last bolt or so. No lower-off - top belay.

Batman start 6m right of BmaP arete. Straight up via hanging undercling feature on right. No lower-off - top belay. (It's possible to start this route from the ledge at the top of Woah Black Betty. Traverse in under the little roof. Bolt. Grade 19.)

Begins at top of WBB. Step right a few metres and up the tough first wall / corner (crux). Then step R and over easy nose and then up easy ground.

An ugly duckling that climbs well. Far left route of the crag sharing the start and first bolt with Room with a View. Only has a single bolt as a lower-off. Don't try and cheat the last move - Mikl has made sure that's not possible!

The best warm up here.

Two boulders split by jugs.

Bouldery start to awesome finale.

Bouldery start to monkey juggery.

RB's up overhanging juggy wall and through the roof

Excellent pumpy climbing up the wall, through the roof, and on to the slab above.

Quite squeezy through the bulge unfortunately. Probably climbs best if you can keep your blinkers on and stay really direct above the 4th & 5th bolts, to keep it entirely independent of both neighbouring routes. But its worthwhile whichever holds you use.

Short but it packs a punch for the length! The busted 3rd bolt has been replaced. - P.T

Start as for WBB but head right and up. Hard.

Start up juggy rooflet, then some good rock and powerful climbing right up until the anchors.

Grovel through the dirt or batman.

The obvious link into VD at the 3rd bolt has been done ("Demented Cabbage", same grade, FRA D. O'Donnell 2006).

One of the best and most sustained of the grade in the mountains. Nothing too cruxy, but relentless climbing that will keep you honest all the way to the anchors.

Lower pocket crux then jugs to an oddly placed anchor. Continuing up Vertical Dementia improves it.

Short steep little arete. Low crux then lots of jugs and a runout to the anchor.

The crag classic!!

Crux down low but plenty of funky holds and tricky moves to keep you pumping all the way to the top.

Just squeezed in but still popular for the grade. Good, funky Logan Brae climbing with some holds that seep. Some filling down the bottom, no drilling.

First bolt as for EIEIO then bust out right and up.

Start just right of EIEIO. Follow the chalk up through the jugs to finish at the giant U. If the moss above doesn't turn you off a good finish is to quest onwards to the Shark Pool anchors.

Has been linked into Shark Pool at the 4th bolt ("Flake Maker", maybe adds a grade, FRA D. O'Donnell 2006).

Some fairly large moves on some less large holds. Careful of the veg at the start.

Short, juggy, fun.

Funky 3D climbing on incredibly slippery rock. Was once grade 21! Rebolted 2019.

Right trending line up marbled rock 1m right of DMW. Distinct crux near the top on crimps. Named in memory of climber Anthony Harris - RIP.

Starts 4m right of Dead Man Walking at log start. Similar to Mountain Ant on water washed featured rock and a distinct crux above the bulge.

Thin, steep and sharp. A false start then some really good moves.

Shared start with HTTBC then after the 5th bolt bam out right and up.

Long wall - starts easily enough for about 15m then cranks up into reachy orange wall and pumpy finish. There is a chain on the flat rock at top that can be used to rap off with an 80m rope. 18ish draws.

A mix of water-polished "slab" and big grain crimpy wall climbing. Finishes with a little wave of steepness and mantle. To access fix a rope off trees and rap 45m down to large vegetated ledge (safe to walk around unroped). This is the right of the two bolted routes starting off this ledge. Two FHs to begin then the rest is u-bolts. Long draws, and a proper single length sling on the 10th bolt just after the flake section reduces ropedrag.

Similar to Forever War but steeper, pumpier and with an easier mantle finish. Rap in as for Forever War. This is the left route off the ledge. Stick-clip first bolt - and take care getting to 2nd bolt. At the 10th bolt drop down a move and traverse right along break for a metre then up (doing it direct is at least 2 grades harder).

Steep arete to the right of Blistering - overhangs about 4m. 3 star climbing but faff hanging belay knocks off a star. Find a single Ubolt & a FH above a black funnel (top of Blistering). Fix a rope and rap down - clipping a couple of bolts on the way down to hanging belay stance above vegetation.

Packed full of fun from start to finish. Top of route is GPS -33.6413, 150.2514 - look for large cairn about 10m back from cliff edge - then walk towards cliff edge to find two Ubolts on shelf. Fix rap rope (not possible to pull down) and rap down ramp and then down orange wall. Clip a couple of bolts on the way to stay connected to cliff. Belay is a small cave about 15m above the ground - it's semi hanging when belaying but ok to sit down in between shots. Best to put on draws on as you rap as some clips are a bit tricky on lead. Route climbs a series of reachy shelves and edges - then traverse right a few metres then one of the best moves ever - the crucifix pocket dyno. Finish up sustained orange face.

Ringbolted wall 8m right of A. FA info unknown

Rusty bash-in carrots up wall left of Donkey's low angle trench crack..

Ringbolts up arete to the right of Luxford's Chimney. There is a ledge above the 2nd bolt which makes clipping the 3rd bolt sketchy. First ascent info unknown - grade is a suggestion after repeat.

The grey wall 5m right of Sport Unknown. A pretty good warmup - but it is protected by 8mm ringbolts held in with capsule glue - treat with caution! Ste off the tree to start or boulder it direct (harder than 20). A medium cam alleviates a mild runout about 2/3rd of the way up. First ascent info unknown.

Left up shallow mini ramp feature (FH) then straight up ironstone encrusted wall (lots of rusty carrots)

Overhanging thin crimping on wall right of chimney of BMTAS.
 Can start as per BMTAS (trad) or Dancing on the People and traverse in on ledge to belay bolts halfway up wall.
 Get established in chimney and spooky traverse to first bolt.
 Thin crimping in exposed position across wall to hit arete and follow to top.

The right side of the remarkable knife blade arete. Start as per Slap The Sami. At ledge move left with one hard move over rooflet then continue left to airy position on arete. The DRB are set back above the lip, which will trash and pinch your rope while lowering/cleaning, to the extent that it's best to clean the 1st 6-8 draws from one of the other anchors to the R.

Slabby start then straight up the wall - taking the left of the two vertical lines of bolts into the light orange rock. The move off the ledge up high is hard and dangerous, needs a very tight belay to keep you from hitting the ledge. The clipping stance is ok, but you might like to bring a panic quickdraw or stick clip.

Shared slab start then right line of bolts leading up easy wall to large ledge. Take a breather then launch up sustained orange face above with memorable last steep move to victory pockets.

Ramble up the dirty start then wild moves up the orange wall above to desperate fused flake finish and chain. (The flake typically needs a clean, and to do so you may need to be ready to stick clip the chains). Spaced bolting - especially above bolts 2&3 - take care with the ledges.

The king line of the crag up the guts of the wall. Take care with the teetering blocks at the start.

Crux has been done as a dyno, slimp highstep or a static skinshredding handjam. Easy wall to roof, over this to break - get past this to next break (crux) and mantle onto ledge. Finish up tricky orange wall above. Some great waterwashed rock on this.

A tale of five mantles. Right most route on the wall with prominent shelf jutting out about 8m up. Long draws useful to reduce rope drag. Has some lovely water-polished rock but is very stop start.

varied thin face climbing. Blunt arete feature in the middle of the wall.

Short with a difficult start and some thin slab moves

Strenuous and mostly unpleasant start move gives way to a pleasant doddle. Recommend stick clipping and pulling up to first bolt and calling it 17.

Obvious corner feature.

Start just right of "I'm good?" and traverse right. Follow bolts upward.

P1- Start as per The Calling. traverse further right and aim upward to ledge. P2- Hard move off ledge (hence recommendation to do as 2 pitches) up and left, around arete to anchors.

Lower arete on the boulder. Bouldery start!

The line of bolts up theline of crazy non-holds, in the clean strip in the middle of the downhill face of the boulder. Bolted by Lee Cossey.

Start: Between TCC and ML.

An outrageous piece of climbing that will test your slab and arete climbing possibly more than any other route in the Blue Mountains.

Route to the right of the crack. Keep out of the crack!

Leave the tree alone and head up and right through some rather sandy stuff.

Shares a start with NifotC. Head left around the arete and up.

Shared first three bolts with I've Got Three Buttocks (hard to cllip third bolt) then the right wall (past the tree on ledge). Take care with the clips above the upper ledge.

Shared start with Vertical Smile then left to the arete then up the gorgeous orange wall trending right to shared anchor. 3rd bolt is a hard clip.

Shared undercut corner start with YonX then traverse hard right (desperate lack of footholds) and up wall with several move hard moves.

On paper this appears to be the easiest route in this neck of the woods BUT the opening move is a real slap in the face. Bolted undercut shallow corner with low anchors. This route was originally done on trad in the 70s and finished off to the right onto the arete (old piton) right of Abso as a 35m pitch that topped out.

Blocky vague prow kind of feature up the centre of the wall.

Great sustained wall climbing without a nasty stopper move - the perfect warmup for the rest of the crag.

Left variant finish to JinX up the hanging arete. Very much a one move wonder that suits small fingers.

Technical, varied and seemingly highly unpopular. Give it a go and see if it's good!

Batman start!

Fun short route sharing the balancy slabby start of Hairy Vengeance then climbing the right wall with a ledge and bulge in the middle

Major orange corner crack that was the retrod by accident. Up past large triangular boulder into corner (high first bolt). Traverse right a bit onto face and up wall onto ledge. Traverse left and up landmark corner (much easier than it looks) and finish through overhung crack to lower-offs. Was originally led as an all trad route in the 70s (at grade 20) and then retroed in 2001. The original probably stemmed up the vegetated corner rather than climbing the face to the right that is now bolted.

A famous chimney slot problem - originally done on trad (at grade 20) and now retrobolted. Up ramp to base of chimney (optional belay). Squeeze upwards and be thankful it is no longer graded 17!

Start: Left side of the arete following flakes. This is where the track from the road comes out.

extra ring added 2004