Vías en Main Wall

Boulder steep corner and face R of Ruddy Norry (shares a couple of holds in the middle). Finish at top of cliff.

Now re-bolted with ring bolts. It's a good warm up, and more so if you continue up the last few metres of Whodunnthat (still 22). Start as for Ratcat then trend right crossing the flake feature. A medium cam in a break below the first bolt (or long stick clip) helps alleviate leg breakages.

A good route through thin ground straight up the wall. Start as for Ruddy Norry but take the middle line of bolts up the sustained face.

A classic Blue Mountains sandbag slab. Heinous. Shared mantle start then take the left line of bolts.

Starts up Chase the Lady and climbs left at the break to finish up Ernest in Africa. The best way to climb either of these routes. Combines the quality harder climbing of both routes, however the midway sit-down rest means it is no harder than the constituents.

This route links the start of Ernest in Africa into the top of Chase the Lady. High first bolt, can be accessed along the ledge from Madge.

The square arete on the R side of the main wall. Believe it or not they used to dyno from the jug to the top! These days we use our feet and a little thought.

Start 3m L of the right arete of the main wall. Easily to ledge, and the just-out-of-reach first bolt (most people stick clip it from the ledge). Then up and out the goodly roof.

Unless you're short!

Finally, a distinguishable feature to help you locate the routes. The right side of the main wall has a roof, and the left end of the roof is a fat hanging flake. Start under this flake. At the top, scamper left and lower from Madge's anchor.

The biggest route on the wall!

You may think rope drag is a prob... but not at all. The moves are wild as well; drop downs, cross-unders, cross-overs the whole way along. Get a seconder too GETTING INTO APRAXIA IS QUITE DANGEROUS I THINK:)

Absolute classic 25 and for many, their first. Centennial Glen climbing at its best.

One of the most popular routes at its grade in the mountains. Start just left of Madge. Stick clip.

Start up Bare Essentials then trend R through the bulge into Trix.

A bit of monkeying around. The glue is cracked all the way around the first bolt.

Links Bare Essentials into August 1914.

Start just R of the two wooden posts. Once was an aid route called 1914 (25M0). Start was aided to the jug, then traverse right and up through the layback as for Bare Essentials - thus avoiding the actual climbing of both routes, to finish as it does today.

The original version, batman or pull draws to start at the big hole at 4th RB.

Super thin and powerful climbing. Has some hard-to-clip (and ridiculously oversized) bolts.

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

Start as for Apraxia. Break out R at the earliest opportunity via a sideways dyno. From there, more easily sideways past a few bolts to anchors up and R. Backjump.

As for Apraxia, almost to its 4th bolt (don't go right at the 3rd bolt, that's Bernie Loves Sausages). Don't clip Apraxia's 4th bolt, instead swing 2-3m R into a cool boulder problem. Has a one-bolt extension through the bulge to a higher anchor, presumably an open project.

Start just R of Padington. Pull onto traverse line and go 5m easily right along low ledge. From here go straight up and a bit left, continuing past the top break and up the little headwall. It's a bit runout getting to the bolt on the lip of the top roof.

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

Start just right of the corner (right of the big fallen block). Use your feet or pull some very thin moves.

Start just R of the boulder. The short right-facing corner.

This is the righthand route which starts off the boulder at the left end of the wall. Stick-clip, then jump off the boulder to gain first hold. The hard moves above the first bolt need an alert belayer to keep you off the boulder. Then a few crimps to easier ground.

Rather worthless.

Has been linked into AC ("My Crusty Strap-on", "22", Ben Cossey), probably best forgotten.

The first climb on the cliff. This is the lefthand route starting off the boulder, above the 'historical' graffiti! The direct start has been done!

Start to the left of the big fallen boulder, slightly around the corner. The name is appropriate; smart belayers stand to one side.

Fun and quite intense.

Direct finish to Touch and Go - a total one move wonder. An old open project sent by Chris Webb. Anchor is one good ringbolt and one old dynabolt.

Rising left traverse.

A cute little diddly according to Ben. Considered an environmental blight by others.

The left hand line in this feisty little cave. Campus the start and thrutch up to the single U-bolt anchor. Good times.