Vías en Central Tablelands para grado seleccionado

From the back wall up the left side slapping some slopers

Chris Beers

In the mini cave from the back ledge head out the roof via pinch and blobby bulge Mega Classic

Awesome new 20 move problem with a dynamic crux at the start and solid rock nearly the whole way. Starts on the big pocket of Say Ahhhhhhh, a couple of easy start moves set you up for a big move out left from a bad off angle right before joining Hopes In Slopes..

Jug the Teflon start then long reach and hard match to move into Mosquito clamps start jug and continue. Only hard for 3 moves really but rad the whole way.

Jared Tyerman

Wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off at grade 23/24. Link into the 2nd pitch for an epic 50m 24 - and if you are really keen continue up the final crimpy finale at 28 for the mega pitch to the top. A couple of long draws and a single length sling are useful for the link-ups. Pitch 2 and 3 were first climbed before pitch 1 - with a belay on the small ledge. If you plan to belay from the ground and link into pitch 2 you will want a 70m rope minimum (and still need a rethread).

Marxism is the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack.

1. 30m (24) One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. The best way to do it is to start up Vespasian's Wall for 3 bolts, then traverse right into rising line of bolts. (The original grade 23 start used to have a large dead tree to stand on to reach the first holds. Now its a stick clip and awkward batman, so just do the new start which is longer and more sustained).

2. 25m (24) The right line of bolts directly above the three bolt belay. Long sustained orange wall - a couple of crazy fragile features spices things up. Finish at last good jugs at lower-off.

3. 12m (28) Link this from pitch 2. Either belay from P1 mini ledge - or the ground. Really awesome climbing on thin edges with a long vertical crux move to undercling a shallow flake!

Starts as for Marxism (pitch 2), then trends a bit left! Weaves around quite a bit, eventually finishing at DRB 6m below the top.

The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off.

Go up Reigning Steel for 4 bolts then left up the sustained crimpy wall. Could be 27 according to Steve.

Similar to 'Gorgon' in grade and nature. Again most of the climbing is free.

Start: 'Trident' cracks on left wall of 'Leviathan' corner

The pumper extension to Mr Magoo through the roof, the holds are good but the pump is mega.

Bypasses the top crux of Mr Universe by traversing right into Mr Carpet Burn and then climbs back across the jugs at the top of MCB to the chains of MU. Some have climbed this thinking they were doing MU but in fact missed the crux of MU. Still a fun outing nonetheless.

Stu Rhys

The first climb at DF, and widely considered to be one of the absolute best routes at any grade in the whole Blue Mountains. Giles sure knows how to pick them.

A 2m variant which usefully avoids some crumbled sandy holds on the original. Most people do Hairline 2000 this way.

Classic jugging! Sustained climbing following a great line on great rock for 40 meters!

Start: As for SKOB but keep traversing far right and up to a massive horn. Continue right for one bolt then make your way up through 3 rooflets, taking the right line of bolts. Traverse right under the final roof and finish topped out above Saturation Point.

You can get a good idea of the crux from the ground, hard moves past the first 4 draws then the great orange wall above. A hold has snapped at 3rd last bolt but there's still a good sequence.

Up the boulder seam through a mini roof then classic and sustained steep wall climbing to a tricky finale.

Link-up of the first half of Snout Counter and the top half of God's Gift to Wart Hogs at a moderate grade. Long pumper on mostly big holds with 3 little boulder problems.

Great consumer climbing with plenty of good jugs and some thin, long pulls. The bolting is a bit spicy but safe.

A great resistance route with nothing too hard, the most popular 28 at Farside. A dynamic start gets you established on route, where the slow burn continues right up until the anchors.

Only really 3 bolts above the first half but adds a fair amount of pump. Continue up and left from the first set of anchors. Mega.

This climb is a proper bang for your buck route. It may look short but it packs in a lot of climbing and styles that is never to hard but on till the oddly place anchors. Horizontal crux down low then big moves between positive holds, with a sneaky finish..

Soft at the grade but still not an easy tick.

The steep crack, hard though well protected. A Blue Mountains gem. Take double cams from 0.4 Camalot (yellow Alien) to 3 Camalot as well as single set of nuts. Double ring lower-off

7m left of Point Insertion, starting at small cairn. Long move into quality climbing and great rest. The flake feature above the rest requires devious beta followed by some pumpy crimping. The demise of the start tree has added an extra move at the same grade.

An awesome link-up featuring the easier halves of two pit 30's. Start up Circling Vultures for the mega dyno then after a brief rest step left into the top headwall crux of North by Northwest. The inverse linkup, connecting the brutal crux of North by Northwest into the less brutal crux of Circling Vultures, is an open project dubbed "Mt Druitt" (a "western circle" reference).

A great pit-link of Ebola Noodles to the big undercling flake then pump right into a hard clip on North By Northwest and continue up this into a crimpy headwall.

Third route in from the left side of the wall. The massive namesake dead tree hanging off the top of the crag is no more. Classy power-endurance route, popular with the pundits. Was a debated 27/28 for a while but many recent repeats the 28 grade has been settled. Ben

Links Force Cannon into Farkenright. Climb all of the hard bit of FC to the horizontal break just before the ledge. Now bust directly right via a tricky boulder, then across the break to the hourglass hold, continuing R as per Farkenright. Lots of roof climbing!

Start 5m right of Magnitude. Big roof. Big holds. Big moves. Harder than it should be.

Lee Cujes

Starting on far left of wall just right of handover rope. Boulder up under roof, reach through to big jug on arete. Bouldery sequence to ledge. Traverse left and up as it steepens into the technical crux. If that goes well, make your way up and left, navigating around the huge flake feature and final big move to top out. 10 bolts to lower off.

Big move off undercling down low and huck to monster jug rail. Past hole to right side of rooflet. Up on edges to ledge and final wall to top out. Dynamic climbing. 9 bolts to lower off.

3m left of Waylander, start at Gritstone slab/layback. Recommend to stick-clip first bolt. Bouldery crux at first roof (permadraw) and then a further 28m of fine, pumpy and varied climbing.

Novel tree start down and left of Hard Reset. Cruxy face leads to base of headwall and good rest. Upper section is engaging and continuous on superb rock.

Start off the large cairn and head straight up the left side of the arete and wall above to some long moves. Has a couple of runouts but on quite easy moves. From the 2nd bolt to the top crux bolt is good 24-25 mileage climbing, if using the easier sequences through half-height.

Short version of Palomino, to the roof then step R to Ristretto anchor. Not significant by Elph standards but would be the best route at many Mtns crags.

Shared start with The Last Ninja. Head up to desperate boulder problem and right through intimidating roof flake.

Amazing line with a tough little beta crux.

Bouldery start to gain the saw tooth feature at 10m, and then straight up the never ending wall.

Hard and sustained edges from half height, is considered solid for the grade now with the direct finish.

The climbing and the rock is awesome, a grade harder after every move! . Hard for 28 but who wants a soft tick?

On right hand edge of cave, 3 metres left of MacDaddy. Awesome steep bouldery climbing with a great mix of holds. A few good rests split the climbing but you really have to hang on tight to the top.

Activate Baby. The first route you come to when arriving at the crag (hint: look straight up). Bolted ground up on lead by Macca and Vinnie. Directly above where the track hits the crag. 2 meters right of One on One Up obvious slab to the overhanging corner. Left to arete, up and right to top, then jump.

First route on the left end when facing the cliff Climb up log (a long way) then left to the jug near the first ring - no higher.

A bouldery little route in a small amphitheatre up from the main crag.

The route right of Angiotension. Good steep sustained climbing with a dynamic finish. New crux beta = new grade. Gifted to Gary from HK.

Intense and athletic blast through much steepness. Pronounced crux at second bolt took many shots before hold was dry and heel stayed put. Consider bringing a small blowtorch if its not windy. Stick clip first two ubolts in roof. A small belay bolt keeps rope out of the way also.

Starts to the right of FOHS on the big juggy shelf and heads out the roof via a long move to join FOHS for the top

Starts as for BOB and SIAST but sticks to the right arete and tops out via cool sculpted holds

Traverse flake-thing, quite techy on pockets and gastons.

Benjamin Cossey Jared Tyerman

Low sit-start half under roof and an edge on the face. Thuggy move leads to the start of the stand. Top out's the same

Same starting hold and finish hold as the five but you head left and punch the lip on small crimps. In the small cave on the left of the amphitheatre

High splitter crack that you cannot miss. Sit-Starts low in pod and climbs up to high jugs above. Pretty good landing on fluffy dust and built-up sticks. To say the name correctly, reverse a "wolf-whistle" in F#m. Think - "how would you answer a wolf-whistle" OR, more specifically, "how you'd decline the frisky advances of someone off-putting (but not threatening) using a wolf-whistle to indicate they're desirousness of you". For further information phone 1800-whistle-whiistle

Just squeezed in but still popular for the grade. Good, funky Logan Brae climbing with some holds that seep. Some filling down the bottom, no drilling.

Shared start with HTTBC then after the 5th bolt bam out right and up.

varied thin face climbing. Blunt arete feature in the middle of the wall.

The route is all too obvious - a bottomless chimney hanging over your head like gaping dinosaur jaws. A unique experience, not soon forgotten.

Was once the hardest route at the crag, and was originally graded 31! Fairly quickly downgraded to a solid 28, but since then some holds have crumbled/gone, making the route more sustained, and better! Maybe still 'just' a solid 28, or maybe 29, but whatever the grade, its a bloody ripper power endurance testpiece so just get on it!

Start on the right hand side of the huge scoop near the left hand end of the railing. Please stick clip and batman - do NOT trample the vegetation.

The anchor has 2 clip-n-go captive biners. These are the dodgy cast style and need to be replaced ASAP, probably by hacksawing them off. They shouldn't be trusted in the meantime.

After the first 2 bolts of 'Demoraliser' there is a bolt to the left which lets you link into 'Equaliser' via some thin 26ish moves. This eliminates the batman, but presents a nasty pendulum fall potential if you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt of Equaliser, and also creates rope drag once you're further up Equaliser, so its not much of an improvement over the batman.

Links the first 4 bolts of 'Equaliser' into the finish of 'Pooferator', avoiding both cruxes. What a train station in Paris has got to do with this route is anyone's guess.

Start 2m R of 'Equaliser'. Stick clip advisable because the first holds aren't positive and are usually wet, even if they don't look it. Wobble up onto the fence, and delicately step onto face. Up the steepening wall with each move getting a bit harder than the previous one... Lower off the huge bizarre single ringbolt with a double-coiled 6-inch eye.

Excellent. Very thin and technical up the orange wall to a nip in the tail. Save it for a cool day. Straight up off the log.

Just right of POPV, out roof on really great rock. Boulder and toe hook, slap and lob up to anchors of POPV. Coach bolts - they are total death.

Ben says it is hyperclassic. One look will make you think otherwise. The worst route in the area? The rock in the top half is terrible. Start about 60m right of the 'Junket Pumper' terrace. Walk along the path - not through the bush.

As for Apraxia, almost to its 4th bolt (don't go right at the 3rd bolt, that's Bernie Loves Sausages). Don't clip Apraxia's 4th bolt, instead swing 2-3m R into a cool boulder problem. Has a one-bolt extension through the bulge to a higher anchor, presumably an open project.

Classic test piece. Giles never really believed he could climb so hard. Start about 50m to the right after the waterfall. Still has some fragile rock; best to stick clip 1st bolt. Can be done only on the bolts, but a few cams are prudent (#1, 0.5/0.3, 3), as are rollers and extenders. 60m rope minimum.

The Wipe Out extension. A very impressive line through the biggest part of the huge roof above Wipe Out, 40m above the ground. Take a collection of long slings and roller biners. Back-jump to clean or top out, untie and leave your draws there! Considered 29 if linked from the ground.

If 'Sail Away' is a cruise then do the 10m extension to the top of the cliff past 4 or 5 more clips. Step R at SA's final bolt to clip the first bolt on the extension and up the steepening face. Despite appearances from below, this extension only climbs the face above SA, it doesn't touch the big roof.

Start 0.5m R of B. Runout bottom half (3 bolts where Black Heathen has 6!), excellent top half.

Bolted over 10 years ago by Rowan, it lay asleep for many years waiting for a keen Muppet to come along and wake it up!! If you're into journeys to other dimensions then this has got your name written all over it. There's a lot of awesome and absorbing climbing. A 80m rope will just only just get you back down if you jump off the top. Or you can walk off the back to the car. The original start to the right will add a few grades and test your reach! Add a No.1 BD cam at the end if you want.

Blasts straight up the awesome wall, albeit a bit squeezily between Vanity Case and Self Portrait, then continues up the dirty vertical headwall a long way to the top. Treat the grade with suspicion; the prolific cobwebs don't suggest a popular soft tick. Start as for Vanity Case for 4 bolts to the ledge, then the middle line off the ledge.

One of the classic Mountain hardies. A good route on good rock. Start on the high ledge about 20m right of Chook Raffle. Access by climbing up near the creek. 4 bolts to ledge then the lefthand line.

10m left of the Birdcage. First pitch can be used to access the ledge above.

1. 35m (22) Long ringbolted slab with mossy start. Belay on ledge.

2. 20m (28) Headwall above.

Beware the evil eyes are apon you. The frost covered ground will show you the path, take gentle steps. The gorgeous rock will hold your hand your mind concerned only with the foot you must land.

Cool jumpers and wooly lockin'.strip clubs the world over will sing your praise.

Traverse the lip to finish at 'Middle Earth' anchors.

Start: Starts up 'The Amateur'.

Access as if you were walking to Jimmy Cliff, but when you drop into the (second) creek and come up the other side, don't go R along the path, instead go straight up to a smooth rock pillar/shelf under the roof. Stickclip high first bolt, then truck left along the rail to set up for a knee-related crux on Nowra-like stone. Then take it to the top. A roller on the belay bolt helps with boinking.

Start a couple of metres L of AATM. Steep wall climbing past the "moonboard crux", then the mega popcorn ceiling. A few sandy holds can be avoided in the last couple of easy metres to the anchor, no biggie. Recent comments suggest it might be harder than 28, opinions welcome.

5m L of Basic Instinct. A boulder route with tricky sections split by ledge rests. Cool iron-cross boulder moving L under roof then up to ledge. Extremely steep elevator doors scoop section to more moderate headwall finish.

Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor.

Shares the first 2 bolts with Luft. Second half is some of the best rock in the mountains! Doesn't look very promising from the ground, but it's amazing climbing ....

Climb up IHST to the last bolt, then continue slightly right all the way up to the anchor of Soak up the Atmosphere. A 65m rope only just gets you to the ground.

Steepness Plus. As for He Man but straight out through the roof. Great climbing through very steep terrain.

Incredible rock, incredible climbing and incredible position. Take plenty of draws (18ish), especially for pitch 2. Generously bolted (I think). Interested to hear what people think .

1. 25m (20) - Easy slab, face climbing. Up corner, flakes and crack. Some fragile rock. Take care on top out. There is loose rocks your belayer won't want on their head. DBB for P2

2. 40m (26-28?) - Insane pitch up crack and arete to upper bulge. The crux at 2/3 height is very cool. Come out of the corner, onto arete and face and span to a committing pop. Then easy and to ledge and TBB (18ish bolts?)

3. 25m (26-28?) - Pull mini roof to some balancy face climbing. Scoot around little prow then up and right, then back left and up to ledge and TBB. (Not sure what is happening with old rope, gear. Needs taking out).

4. 30m (26-28?) - Easy off ledge to little roof boulder. Airy and committing through roof. FA involved swinging wildly off the jug to establish toe hooks and heel hooks on lip then hands follow. Up balancy prow to ledge and TBB.

5. 30m (25) - Fantastic swooping pitch across vertical wall. Could be a sting in the tail. Up to ledge and DBB.

6. 15m (10) - scramble through vegetated corners out left to topout. Clip bolt on small exposed slab after top out then belay off big gum tree out right. 120cm sling or use your climbing rope as anchor.

Climbs the right side arete and face of the same proud buttress as Regular Route.

Access by abseiling down A Date with Density. Starts 2m left of A Date with Density.

1. 40m (26) Steep blunt black arete to DRB (which you rapped in off).

2. 30m (23) Drift L around the arete and up the lovely polished orange face to same 2nd belay stance as for Regular Route.

3. 30m (28) Straight up to big ledge.

4. 45m (28) Steep start to gain stunning overhung orange wall.

5. 30m (24) - As per The Regular Route

6. 30m (22) - As per The Regular Route

7. 35m (23) - As for A Date with Density Pitch 5.

Start as for Thin Time. The right hand route.

Start 3m L of Onions. Boulder your way up to the first link bolt of Aneurysm then straight up into Onions. Hopefully frees the Onions start up a bit.

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of Onions keep chugging, move right and up and finish at anchors now shared with Don't Believe the Tripe. Originally 27.

Traverse. Onions start, then head R as for Tripe, then traverse the lip all the way to the right. Back jump to clean.

Surely been done, but seems obvious and is a good bit of climbing, even as a bit of an eliminate. Sit start in the low slot to the right of Garths Arete. Move right hand to small lip slot, left hand up to a glued edge. Move to ironband rail and make a big thwomp up to a small edge before moving right to a tricky gaston and up to finish the 4. Avoiding the left arete jugs the whole time.

Headpointing comes to the mountains. First ascent was done using toprope rehearsal in order to clean and find the line. A ground-up ascent is possible just committing.

Start on arete at base off steep gully and at the beginning of the left leading diagonal break.

Stand start on jug rail under rooflet and dyno up to juggy sloper around lip.

Landing isn't as bad as it looks

Boulder problem to pumpfest. Start freed by Mark Baker.

Up small wall,Boulder through horizontal roof and into orange corner via arette jug. Could be soft. Could be sandbag....depending on if your a boulderer!?

Same start as 'Charged' but continue straight on the face instead of going R.

The end of another long affair. Great moves, technical with a dynamic finish. Generally considered easy for the grade, but then a hold snapped in 2011. Now its more solid, and a bugger to get a draw onto the 5th bolt.

Start: Start under the short vague arete 1m left of the Stolen corner.