North East Guide

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2,154 routes in Region

Escalada clásica, Búlder y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -41.482087, 147.321030

restricciones

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

heredado de Tasmania

Ética

Crag Stewards

Many Tasmanian climbing areas have Stewards assigned as a point of contact for safety or access concerns.

For more details and the list of Steward emails please visit: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Introduction+to+Tasmanian+Climbing

Statewide Ethics

The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted
Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.
Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.
For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

heredado de Tasmania

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237 routes in Crag

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -41.609513, 147.681914

descripción

Ben Lomond National Park is a National Park in North East Tasmania.

Acceso

The National Park is easily accessible by car via Ben Lomond Road.

Alojamiento

There is one official campground and bush camping is allowed provided you do not camp within 500 metres of any road.

Ética

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (benlomond@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Summary:

169 routes in Area

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -41.514181, 147.637151

Resumen

Most popular and easily accessible part of Ben Lomond, home to dozens of classics.

Summary:

9 routes in Area

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -41.552394, 147.577618

Summary:

5 routes in Area

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -41.613351, 147.664476

descripción

Further away than Africa

Acceso

Walk a long way.

Summary:

25 routes in Area

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -41.625027, 147.693714

Acceso

Stacks bluff is a different approach to the main Ben Lomond.

From the abandoned town of Stony Creek, there will be a wooden signpost to turn left to stacks bluff. Follow the signs along the gravel road to an obvious carpark. You can keep going up the trail with a 4x4 to save 20mins of walking.

At the end of the 4x4 trail, follow the red tape and cairn marked trail to the talus field (approx 30 minutes), then scrambled up to your desired route. If you’re confident rock-hopping on loose stuff, it’ll take about 15 minutes, if you like your knees, and don’t wanna snap an ankle, it could take 30+ minutes

Summary:

17 routes in Area

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -41.595557, 147.746623

Summary:

12 routes in Area

3+ horas

Todo Escalada en hielo

descripción

Introduction: (All info in this area courtesy of Peter Booth and TheSarvo.com)

Conditions are rarely right for ice climbing in Tasmania due to the influence of the prevailing maritime westerly winds and the relatively low altitude of the mountains. Ascents have been made in winter conditions on a number of peaks including Federation Peak, Cradle Mountain and Frenchman's Cap but the only area to consistently produce easily accessible and quality ice climbing has been the Ben Lomond escarpment, particularly the south-facing cliffs around Stacks Bluff. Although the effects of global warming are evident in the frequency and duration of climbable ice, given the right climatic sequence (see notes on specific locations) good conditions can be found at any time between early June and early September. July and August give the best possibilities. The two main areas, Stacks Bluff and The Knuckle, are very different in character. Stacks gives a steep, open face with an alpine atmosphere and, to date, one classic gully climb. The Knuckle is ice cragging with a wide range of short (to 50m.) steep routes on water ice. Despite the relative ease of access, the rugged terrain engenders a feeling of remoteness and on a clear winter day the prospect of crags, extensive boulder fields and wild eucalypt forest with the Fingal valley far below and the distant sea to the east, makes climbing ice here a unique experience. Rarely, when at its best, the climbing can match any of its type anywhere. The Stacks Bluff area is very exposed to bad weather, particularly so in winter, and in such conditions there is no easy retreat, with difficult terrain compounding any navigational problems. Winter climbing on the Bluff invariably feels like a big day out; days are short - carry torches. If visiting the area for the first time, take careful note of the route back. Any walking tracks on the plateau are nothing more than ill defined and poorly marked routes. Similar comments apply to The Knuckle although the area is less exposed to bad weather and access is much easier. As is usual with ice climbing, do not expect to find perfect protection. In general, nuts and cams are ineffective in ice-glazed cracks (when you can find any) and pitons are better. Ice screws are often the best or only option; take tie-offs. Specific comments on conditions and equipment will be found in the respective crag descriptions. Nothing is guaranteed; a high degree of judgement and initiative is required in this type of climbing. Take care.

Acceso

From Launceston, drive through St Leonards and along Blessington Road (C401), following signs to Ben Lomond. Four kilometres before Upper Blessington, turn right to Ben Lomond and continue past the Carr Villa turn off. Leave the car in the park at the foot of Jacobs Ladder, the final, steep winding road up to the plateau. Opposite, across the valley, is Whymper Crags. Walk to the first bend on the Ladder. Descend to cross the creek and climb up through the scrub to the routes. Directly above the car park is the huge cleft of Car Park Gully.National Park entry fees apply.

Historia

It is not known definitively who first climbed ice here although in 1978 Ross Mansfield and Chris Penner climbed a multi-pitch route on Stacks, probably on The Amphitheatre. In 1984 Tony McKenny and Peter Booth climbed a route on The Amphitheatre, wandered along the edge of the plateau and saw the daunting top pitch of The Trident. In subsequent years regular trips were made to the Amphitheatre, mainly by northern climbers, with sporadic forays to the Trident, invariably foiled by bad weather, poor conditions or the sheer effort of battling snow covered boulders and scrub on the approach. The route became a slow burning obsession. Success finally came, to Peter Booth and Bill Baxter, in 2004.The ice was in perfect condition and the final 45m.crux pitch up the iced flank of a dolerite column provided a fitting climax to a 20-year dream. On the Northern Escarpment, Geoff Batten climbed a route in the early 1970s near Jacobs Ladder, while Peter Booth led a large party in 1983 up the Whymper Couloir. In 1994 Peter Booth and Ross Mansfield first visited The Knuckle, finding no traces of previous ascents. Knuckle Butty was the first blow in their campaign, a line up the major icefall and still one of the better routes. For two seasons they had the crag to themselves and climbed most of the main lines. Subsequently, on weekends when conditions were good, there were often several parties climbing. Gary Khuen was an enthusiastic protagonist and left little ice uncramponed. In later years indifferent seasons saw less activity but periodically good climbing still occurs and then a hard core of ice enthusiasts converge on the crag from around the state. Are you an obsessive ice fanatic with plenty of imagination, considerable patience, luck, and in possession of a long neck? If so, there are further opportunities for new adventures on the escarpment.

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54 routes in Crag

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.814859, 146.903748

Resumen

Sport climbing on sandstone rock.

Ética

Please NO climbing after significant rain. Climbing on wet or damp sandstone can wear away at the soft rock and cause holds to break.

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (mtblackwood@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Summary:

23 routes in Area

10-20 min

Todo Escalada deportiva

restricciones

Sandstone sport crag

Acceso

Same car parking location as for American Woman Area - on a sharp right turning switchback signified by a yellow boom gated dirt road on the left about 5 - 10 minutes after passing the town of Poatina. The main parking space is tucked away into the bush to hide vehicles from view, but there are more road side spaces up the highway a little on the downhill side if you're worried about being parked in.

Walk along the gated (another entry point is blocked by some large rocks) dirt road for about 5 mins passing the highpoint of the road, before picking up a taped and cairned pad heading uphill on your right. Follow this to the first climbs and continue along the cliff from there.

The Training Wall Area is on a separate higher tier, best reached by a gully towards the far RHS of McGifford's Edge escarpment.

Alojamiento

Info can be found in the Climb Tasmania and Climb Northern Tasmania books. Climb Northern Tasmania has a comprehensive guide of the crag

Summary:

4 routes in Crag

Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

Acceso

Located above McGifford's Edge crag. Continue to the far right hand end of the main cliffs and ascend to the top via a gully. Once at the top, cut back left to reach the base of the Training Wall.

Summary:

16 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.813618, 146.900967

Acceso

Climbs are listed here from left to right.

A new approach opened up following the 2022 winter storms. From the parking area with the big boulders walk up the road about 10 metres. You'll see a cairn leading uphill into the bush. Take this path; almost immediately you'll find a big gully that heads directly up. Follow this until the base of the cliff (2-3 minutes). At the base of the cliff you'll find a big tree on your right with a fixed rope to take you up the last few loose steps.

From this point, just head right along the cliff-line. You'll reach the first climb, Holy, Holy, Holy, with its distinctive hueco pocket features, within about 30 seconds. Another 2 minutes will get you to Drop Zone and American Woman (the chimney)

Alternatively, if you really want to use the old approach it's mostly still there, though the start is buried in the rubble of the storms. From the parking area, walk up the highway for 50m or so before picking up a taped footpad which heads up the hill. The pad reaches the cliff at the base of the American Woman chimney, which is a useful reference.

Summary:

2 routes in Area

nordeste <5 min Caminata pronunciada Arenisca Derecha a izquierda Arista Vertical Potencial de nuevas vías

Todo Escalada deportiva

Resumen

Just left (15m) of the access gully there's an arete with two nice routes. Shade from 3PM (summer and winter). Great rock quality. Potential for a few more routes around here.

descripción

A 25m arete with a route bolted either side of it.

restricciones

On hot summer days it's best to bring some DEET. Not a problem when it's cooler, but in summer there are ticks.

Acceso

3 minutes steep uphill walk almost directly above the car. Walk up the access gully to the base of the cliff-line. Turn left here and walk about 15 metres to the obvious arete buttress with lots of shiny ringbolts.

Summary:

9 routes in Area

nordeste 10-20 min Caminata pronunciada Arenisca Derecha a izquierda Apto para niños Tumbado Vertical Nueva zona En desarrollo

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.814303, 146.900854

Resumen

The huge cliff up top visible from the road. Somehow it got missed until now. Sun until 3PM (summer and winter), though seems to get clouds and a breeze in summer, and full sun in winter.

descripción

Currently under development, but there are a few things to play on. Contact chou chou halperin for beta.

Acceso

15 minutes steep walk uphill. GPS trail: https://www.gaiagps.com/map/?loc=18.0/146.9012/-41.8148&pubLink=QIMZmoHFwafvOtiUfkgvDpCL&trackId=e63e97ff-e3c2-4dd8-a8d6-718242104f0d

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94 routes in Crag

<5 min

Mayormente Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327285, 146.992557

descripción

Brady's Lookout is a lookout offering spectacular views over the Tamar River and surrounding areas. It is located in Bradys Lookout State Reserve.

Most routes on the main cliff are now heavily caked with lichen, &/or have a ton of blackberry bushes at their base. Some serious cleaning may be necessary before any future ascents.

restricciones

Located in Bradys Lookout State Reserve.

Ética

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (bradyslookout@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Summary:

11 routes in Cliff

Prohibido acampar Prohibido hacer fuego Refugios Servicios Mojado con lluvia <5 min Basalto Prohibido los perros Izquierda a derecha

Escalada clásica y Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.327611, 146.992005

descripción

The main cliff at Brady's Lookout

Historia

First routes developed by Fantini in the early 80's

Summary:

4 routes in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327355, 146.991939

Summary:

2 routes in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327698, 146.992174

Summary:

2 routes in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327718, 146.992192

Summary:

14 routes in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327547, 146.992372

Summary:

1 route in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327515, 146.992272

Summary:

1 route in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327559, 146.992277

descripción

Short triangular boulder between Two Step and Three's A Crowd

Acceso

Same as for Two Step and Three's A Crowd

Summary:

1 route in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327420, 146.992126

Summary:

9 routes in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327420, 146.992251

Summary:

3 routes in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327420, 146.992338

descripción

Five metres below postcard is a large pyramidal boulder with a clean vertical face.

Summary:

2 routes in Area

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327276, 146.992138

Resumen

Tucked out of view, but directly 20m north of “Circus Boulder”

Summary:

1 route in Boulder

<5 min

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327264, 146.992206

descripción

The Large square block 15m north of 'Circus Boulder.' Located in between "Fault Line' & Rising Slopey Traverse.

Summary:

2 routes in Area

Basalto

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327215, 146.992245

Resumen

Slightly downhill and 20m north of the circus Boulder.

Summary:

2 routes in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.326913, 146.992165

descripción

Blocky boulder just north of the Undertow with a crack like feature splitting the block in half horizontally

Acceso

Just north of the Undertow Boulder

Summary:

2 routes in Boulder

Todo Búlder

descripción

Nestled in a collection on boulders behind ‘Fault Line.’

Summary:

13 routes in Field

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327039, 146.992356

Summary:

3 routes in Boulder

5-10 min

Todo Búlder

descripción

This boulder is the large slab towards the bottom end of the boulder field, near the Undertow

Summary:

1 route in Area

Todo Búlder

Resumen

If at ‘Undertow Boulders’ head past ‘Death by Dirt’ into the Boulder field 10m. It is the tall face starting down in a cave.

Summary:

11 routes in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.326879, 146.993008

descripción

Area at the bottom of the boulder field with flat grass and a large tree balancing over the boulders.

Summary:

2 routes in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.326979, 146.992056

descripción

The Pillar Perched up in the middle of the area. Easy to see if walking from the bottom up.

Fridge-like boulder 20m east of Waterwheel boulder (visible from Waterwheel)

Summary:

7 routes in Field

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.327116, 146.991917

Resumen

Waterwheel boulders is a little corner of two boulders near the north eastern end of the boulder field.

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30 routes in Crag

suroeste Sombra todo el día Ventoso Caminata pronunciada 10-20 min Dolerita Desplome Tumbado Vertical

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.656404, 146.806931

descripción

The Cluan Tiers are a range of hills near the town of Westbury in Northern Tasmania. On the western side facing the Liffey Valley, is a substantial dolerite escarpment about 2km long and up to 90m high, but only two of the faces have been deemed worthy of climbing. The cliff is unusual for dolerite as it is generally void of cracks, and forms overhanging blocky faces with big roofs. Consequently the crag has been developed as a sport climbing area. The nature of the rock lends itself to steep, difficult climbing, and the main wall in particular, is quite intimidating. The cliff faces south-west and does not see sunlight until well into the afternoon, making it an ideal summer crag. Whiskey Jim Hill is also located on Cluan Tier, a short distance to the east of the Cluan Tiers crag. The rock is sandstone of variable quality, and climbing here consists of both trad and sport on steep cracks and faces. While only two climbs are recorded, there is potential for many more in the vicinity. Climbers should come prepared for cold weather as it is an alpine area subject to the full force of westerly weather. The views to the western tiers are glorious, making it a spectacular location for climbing.

Acceso

Access for Cluan Tier is remarkably easy - if you have a 4WD, being just 45 minutes drive from Launceston and a 10 minute walk on a track to the top of the cliff. From Launceston travel to Westbury and continue another 9km on the old highway to Exton. Turn left at Exton onto C502, signposted Quamby Brook and Golden Valley. Continue straight ahead at the crossroads after 4km. About 3km later is a gravel road on the left signposted to the 'Cluan Tier'. From here it is 16km on logging roads to the cliff. Follow the main 'Cluan Tier' Road and after about 12km is a crossroads. Take the road on the right which goes steeply up a hill. At the top of the hill, keep following the main road and take left hand turns at the two intersections you come across. The road passes underneath a powerline and curves around to meet the powerline again about 1km further. Park here at the powerline easement marked by a cairn on the left. Follow the powerline easement up the hill for 10 minutes to the top of the cliff. After some easy bashing through a grove of ferns for about 100m, there is a good gravel track up the easement. At the powerpole closest to the cliff edge, turn left and follow a rough path for 50m to the descent gully marked by a cairn. A short descent gully leads to the first cliff while the main cliff is about 100m further around to the right. Whiskey Jim Hill: Take the main Cluan Tier road, and at 12km continue straight instead of turning right. At the next intersection continue straight, and then left at the next one (this should be at the beginning of a recently logged coup). Follow the road to the far side of the coup and park before getting bogged. Walk NE along the road for about 400m, then follow the overgrown road on the right downhill to intersect a walking trail marled by orange flagging. Turn right and follow this for about 600m to an intersection marked by a cairn. Follow the less distinct RH trail a couple of minutes to the top of the cliff.

Ética

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (cluantier@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Historia

Climbers have probably been aware of these cliffs for years, being obvious from the road to Liffey Falls. Gerry Narkowicz scrub bashed up the hill from the western side in May 2006 and realised the potential of the cliff. He made the first climbing trip to the area with Nick Hancock on 10/6/06 and two routes were climbed and another three projects were bolted over three days.

Summary:

1 route in Cliff

Arenisca

Todo Escalada clásica

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15 routes in Area

Permitido Barbacoa Camping Agua potable Fuego Refugios Servicios Se seca rápidamente Granito Apto para niños

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.159526, 147.816300

Resumen

Derby is a town in the north east of tasmania best know for its world class mountain bike trails.

Alojamiento

There is plenty of accomodation and camping in derby.

Historia

Derby once was a mining town with many miners and prospectors looking for tin.

Summary:

10 routes in Area

Lat / Long: -41.165808, 147.819641

Resumen

The rocky river that many people ride on next to the 5 ways. Has so much more potential (200+ routes) for boulders, trad, and maybe even some DWS. The river is about 1.2km long from the dam to 5 ways.

descripción

The cascade river is all smooth granite.

Acceso

Park at the MTB trailhead and ride up the trail "Axe Head," this takes 10-20 mins. Or alternatively, catch a shuttle to the top (Black Stump) and ride down one of the many trails that lead to 5 ways, the fastest being "Flickety Sticks." Once you are at the 5 ways cross the fire trail and bridge onto the dried up river slabs. From here you can ditch your bike and walk or see how far you can ride up the river. boulders are scattered either side of the river. the further you go up the river, the more boulders.

Historia

There are remnants of small old tin mines.

Summary:

5 routes in Field

Permitido Camping Sol por la tarde Se seca rápidamente Mojado con lluvia Caminata pronunciada <5 min Granito Abandonado

Lat / Long: -41.147798, 147.808384

Resumen

The trout rock "trout hole" is an area behind the famous painted trout rock in derby. It has potential for many new boulders. With cracks, off widths and slabby granite boulders.

descripción

Behind the Derby trout rock is an area of boulders, on the 8th of december 2022 1 Slab the "trout hole slab" was brushed and acended. With a longer route or a shorter easier route. Many more posibilities to explore and create.

Acceso

Park at the water works building and walk up the trouty mountain bike track straight to the Trout rock. Next to the ringaroma river on the Weldbourgh side of Derby.

Alojamiento

Derby has alot of airbnb accomodation or camping by the river.

Ética

Bring a brush and create a new climb while trying the others. Be safe.

Historia

Philin It, brushed the trout hole slab on the 8th of december.

Summary:

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27 routes in Area

5-10 min Dolerita

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.430960, 147.181665

Resumen

Perched on the border of Ravenswood and Waverley, Distillery Creek is home to some long overlooked, quality boulder problems and potential for some short roped trad and sport climbs aretes and cracks.

descripción

Boulders in this area extend along the creek as well as higher on the hills, either side of the valley. The largest concentration of rock is a southeast-facing boulder below a cliff line. There is potential for many easy and hard boulders in this area.

Acceso

The main access for this area is to park at the Waverley Lake carpark and cross the road slightly downhill. This gives access to the reserve. walk around 100m into the reserve and then follow some stone stairs down to the river. The first boulder problems can be found here and in the riverbed slightly downstream. To access the main boulder fields of Prohibition Hill, cross the river at the metal weir and walk straight uphill. Follow the fence line at the top of the hill for 650m and the boulder field is marked with a cairn.

Ética

This area (especially the boulders) is open for development to anyone. Please, If you are developing and establishing first ascents, clean the moss and dirt off the boulder, prepare the landing and take photos of the climb. If you are able to, please upload the route to 'The Crag', otherwise, notify someone who can do it for you (many suitable people can be found at Beta Park). We would love for this area to grow quickly and for it to be a quality community project.

Historia

The reserve is a natural dolerite gorge, 70m deep. Tracks wind along the top of steep rocky slopes and cliffs though dry woodlands. Distillery Creek supplies freshwater for Launceston, via a diversion tunnel from the St Patricks River built in 1857, commemorated by the fountain in Prince's Square. Swift parrots visit the large gum trees on their annual migration to nest sites in the south-east. (Taken from the City of Launceston Website)

Summary:

4 routes in Field

Arista Cara Dolerita Vertical Destrepe Potencial de nuevas vías

Lat / Long: -41.430222, 147.184355

Resumen

Alongside the river at the weir and further downstream.

Summary:

23 routes in Field

Sol por la tarde

Lat / Long: -41.430803, 147.179898

descripción

The top of the hill on the Ravenswood side of the creek, sits one of the highest concentrations of quality dolerite bouldering problems.

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353 routes in Crag

Privado <5 min

Búlder, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -41.218927, 146.952507

Resumen

Basalt sport climbing and bouldering located on PRIVATE LAND

See below for updated restrictions & access information (March '24)...

descripción

After many years of closure - a temporary lease agreement has been negotiated between the Georgetown Council & the landowner which allows climbing access. The continuation of this lease is dependent on the respect & self governance of the climbing community as a whole, and certain rules are to be adhered to by all. Please do the right thing, and speak up to any users you encounter who may not be doing so.

No overnight stays or camping
No fires or fuel stoves
No animals or pets
No firewood collection
No trespassing onto neighbouring paddocks, or interfering with livestock
No parking along Craigburn Road if carpark is full

restricciones

Hillwood climbing has finally reopened (11th March, ‘24) after many years of closure. Exciting times!!

Georgetown Council has negotiated a lease agreement with the land owner, but it remains PRIVATE PROPERTY - so please adhere to best behaviour, so we do not once again lose access!!

**Access is currently "tentative", and could be scrapped within the year if we do not respect the handful of site rules + regulations when we visit. Please be mindful of this!!

A carpark has been built well-off the main road to facilitate approx. 25 cars - DO NOT park along Craigburn Road at the old parking space if the new carpark is full on arrival. Carpooling from home or a nearby location (eg. Hillwood Football Oval) is encouraged to manage current carpark capacity. Please attempt to park as tightly as possible to maximise vehicle space.

There is now a toilet located at the carpark. Please use it as priority - and adhere to "Leave No Trace" principals if elsewhere on the property. Dig a 20cm hole, and bury poop and paper. Even better - carry a poo tube and pack it out after your session. Do not burn your toilet paper!

CragCare has conducted track/regrowth clearing works across the site to get it ready for climbing, and as such many old access routes could have changed since your last visit. Refer to the updated online guide here for any new approach details. Major junctions are now signposted, and all tracks have been flagged with tape - many routes have also had their hardware inspected or rebolted by the CCT.

The campaign to have Hillwood reopened to the public was lengthy, and complex. Many people have donated much time, effort and money to the cause - and even now it is not guaranteed forever. Please understand that climbing at Hillwood is a privilege, and not a right. As a community - we thank both the landowner, and the Georgetown Council for this amazing outcome, and contribution to Tasmanian climbing.

With any luck, and ongoing respect/compliance - access will be continued for many more years to come!! Happy climbing!!

Any concerns or general feedback can be directed to the CCT's new crag stewards program via hillwood@climbersclubtas.org.au

Acceso

Located north of the small locality of Hillwood, approx 20-30 mins drive from Launceston. Travel along Craigburn Road until you reach the new carpark and toilet. Do not park along the fenceline if the carpark is full. There is a cute little cafe in town opposite the jetty (which is also a great spot for a post climb swim!), and various berry farms nearby.

Alojamiento

Strictly NO overnight stays in vehicles or camping on site, nor along Craigburn Road
The nearby Egg Island Point Reserve is also DAY USE ONLY
There is a FREE self contained vehicle campground across the river at Swan Point - and "Mike & Annies Front Paddock", a privately run PAID self contained vehicle site at Dilston
The nearby Signal Station Tavern also allows overnight stays for self contained vehicles. No tents! Note - there is NO TOILET outside of opening hours (so please don't poop or pee on the lawn, or in the carpark), and it is expected that you grab yourself a beer, counter-meal or make a donation to justify your stay. Let them know you're climbers, say "thanks", and generally be a good human!
Other options include Low Head, Exeter & Beauty Point
If you do intend to bush/car camp somewhere else nearby, please use public toilets or the port-a-loo in the new carpark (before or after your session) to minimise impact
Where possible - spend up big $$ in the Georgetown Council area as a way of saying "THANKYOU". Without their generous contribution, Hillwood climbing would most likely remain closed

Ética

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (hillwood@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Summary:

78 routes in Crag

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.218097, 146.950663

Resumen

Most popular area at Hillwood, with a short walk in and dozens of excellent, well-bolted face climbs.

Acceso

Updated March '24. From the new carpark follow the rough vehicle track to the old quarry junction. Turn Left and follow signs + tape up the hill to the cliffs. Before reaching Matto Grosso main, a track junction veers R leading to The Chessboard.

Summary:

29 routes in Crag

10-20 min

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.215285, 146.953552

Resumen

Less popular than Matto Grosso, but home to some sensational routes.

descripción

The first area developed of Hillwood. Despite only requiring an additional 5 minutes of walking, this area sees much less traffic than Matto Grosso. The routes on Rock of Ages are well worth checking out, while Twin Tree Face also has a couple of minor classics.

Acceso

Updated March '24. Follow signs from the carpark to The Chessboard. From here - head uphill to the L end of the cliff to pick up a signposted + taped route across the paddocks to reach Rock of Ages. Twin Tree Face is located slightly uphill + R of the main ROA cliff.

Summary:

21 routes in Crag

10-20 min

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -41.216988, 146.953117

Resumen

Some excellent climbs in a rarely visited area. Big time adventure feel for an extra few minutes of walking.

descripción

Bolt refresh of Falcon Crag partly complete (April '24). Peregrine Shelf has been fully rebolted; The Stronghold has had trad bits retrobolted, and the old bolts are safe but might have some rusty hangers; other crags are an unknown quantity. Use your own judgement. Rebolting should be complete within 12 months. Use your own judgement

Acceso

Updated March '24. From the carpark - follow the rough vehicle track to the old quarry junction. Instead of turning left to Matto Grosso etc, conitnue straight to keep following the vehicle track straight and then left. At the signposted track junction - continue past Fiery Furnace cliff to another signposted junction. L contours along the base of Falcon Crag, R heads up and over to The Far Side.

To reach any climbs on the extreme L of Falcon Crag, continue along the contour track until you can exit the forest, out onto the scree field - and make your way across from there (more remote sector).

Summary:

12 routes in Crag

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.216910, 146.953292

Resumen

Big time adventure feel single + multipitch routes at more moderate grades - over the back of Falcon Crag.

descripción

Mostly easier sport routes up to 30m. Bolted + developed by Bill Baxter no earlier than 2015, with good quality hardware. Most routes are labelled with a small metal name plate at their base, for ease of identification.

Although the grades and bolting here are quite user friendly, consider this a more remote + slightly more advanced destination than The Chessboard etc. The routes here are still relatively new without much traffic, so loose rock is always a possibility. Wear a helmet!

Acceso

Updated March '24. From the carpark follow signs straight past the old quarry junction, then swinging left continuing along the rough vehicle track until you reach a signposted junction to The Far Side. Follow the track up and over the hill, passing the signposted junction to Falcon Crag.

Historia

Developed by Bill Baxter

Summary:

7 routes in Crag

5-10 min Tumbado Techo

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.218531, 146.954327

Resumen

A minor crag located on the hill above the paddocks. Mostly slabby climbing following seams, with morning shade + some tree cover in the afternoon. Great sunsets over the river!

descripción

A new cliff featuring moderate grades. As with all crags at Hillwood, but especially relevant at newer areas - helmets are highly recommended!! Grade opinions welcome..

restricciones

This is a newly established cliff - and as such there is potential for loose rock at any time. Sometimes hollow sounding blocks are surprisingly solid, and other bomber feeling footholds suddenly explode from under you. Use your own judgement, and comment if anything needs additional attention. You can help by removing obvious loose rock (if you can safely), and brushing + blowing residual/remaining dust from holds

Acceso

From the carpark, follow signs/tracks as for Cave Rock. At the top left corner post of the paddock, instead of continuing around the fence line - veer directly uphill edging the the vegetation line. Locate green tapes/cairns and contour left along the slopes to the base of the main cliff.

Summary:

13 routes in Area

10-20 min

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.221048, 146.955439

Resumen

Steep face and roof climbing

Acceso

Updated March '24. DO NOT use old access for accessing Cave Rock. We are not permitted to use the paddocks to take short cuts, and the old stile is no more. Please adhere to new access described below.

From the carpark - follow the rough vehicle track to the old quarry junction and continue straight. As the vehicle track veers L towards Falcon Crag/The Farside etc instead swing R to hug the fence line around to a grove of blackwood trees + a signposted track junction. From here head left up the hill, following flagging tape to the base of the cliff.

Summary:

20 routes in Area

Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -41.222719, 146.953623

Resumen

A more remote scattering of craglets at the southern end of the property. Expect vaguer access tracks, and less trafficked routes - however still hosting a number of classics in an isolated setting

Acceso

Updated March '24. DO NOT cross the paddocks, as stated in any old guidebook! Instead, from the new carpark - continue straight past the old quarry junction. Continue along the rough vehicle track until there is signposted junction veering R to Cave Rock/The Citadels etc. Tapes mark the route which generally travels above the fenceline around to the signposted turn-off to Cave Rock, then further along to The Citadels + Hidden Tower turn off marker. From here - L uphill Leads to The Citadels (C1 - C5 L to R), and R along the fence leads to the Hidden Towers.

Summary:

173 routes in Area

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.218972, 146.952398

Resumen

An assortment of basalt boulders to compliment the sport climbing across the property. Still relatively undeveloped - so please provide topos and clear problem details if contributing to the guide.

descripción

This guide is still a working progress - borrowed much from the notes of Ben Thorp & Mark Polinski prior to 2019 crag closure. The boulders described could very well be now completely covered in regrowth vegetation + nettle - so expect to do some cleaning. Topos + best current access info can be updated post reopening

Historia

Predominantly developed by Mark Polinski & Ben Thorp - much info has been acquired from their original interim guide

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935 routes in Crag

Escalada clásica, Búlder y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -41.453088, 147.104888

Resumen

This guide describes all climbing to be found along the South Esk River between Kings Bridge and the Trevallyn Dam. Mostly on short dolerite buttresses up to 35m high, and river level bouldering.

Ética

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Summary:

246 routes in Crag

<5 min

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -41.442825, 147.123099

Resumen

A scattering of buttresses located on the southern side of the South Esk River, between Kings Bridge and the First Basin area.

Acceso

Various options exist - with most utilising the zig-zag walking track for access. Cliffs in this guide are described in order as approached when walking from Kings Bridge upstream to the First Basin.

Parking is possible at both the Penny Royal Adventures complex, and the First Basin carpark (both paid) at either end of the zig-zag track.

Some major cliffs are used as landmarks to help find the more obscure locations, and/or to find the right spot to jump the fence. These can be handy spots to know when getting your bearings if unfamiliar with The Gorge area, and are generally included in individual buttress approach descriptions.

Summary:

98 routes in Area

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -41.441860, 147.122298

Resumen

A scattering of short dolerite crags located below and above the Tourist Track between the First Basin and Kings Bridge, on the northern side of the river.

descripción

A good mixture of both traditional and bolted routes, perfect for a hot summers day as the cliffs come into shade by early afternoon. This area also boasts maybe the highest concentration of established boulder problems in the gorge.

restricciones

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Summary:

21 routes in Artificial

nordeste De pago Agua potable Refugios Servicios <5 min Apto para niños Vertical

Todo Escalada en tope rope

Lat / Long: -41.441167, 147.127882

Resumen

The rock climbing area of Penny Royal Adventures. Open on weekends and school holidays 10-5, and Wednesday nights 5-8pm. There are 11 functioning auto belay systems and a large number of natural and artificial routes on the dolerite face.

Historia

These cliff grounds were the location of the first rock climbs in Launceston when it was an abandoned quarry. It later became a gunpowder mill, before being transformed into its current form as an adventure park with a restaurant, pub and family friendly adventure activities.

Summary:

76 routes in Sector

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -41.454081, 147.114921

descripción

The section of gorge between the first basin swing bridge and the Duck Reach Bridge. Most of the buttresses are on the southern (sunny) side of the river

Acceso

Most of the climbs in this part of the gorge are approached by walking along the track between first basin and duck reach. Parking is available at either end of the track.

Historia

Detailed history can be found in the guidebook to climbing in the South Esk, by Bob McMahon and Gerry Narkowicz.

Summary:

102 routes in Area

<5 min

Escalada clásica, Escalada en roca y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -41.462302, 147.109207

descripción

This section covers the multiple buttresses on the southern (sunny side) of the gorge from the Duck Reach Swing bridge upstream to Ramona Buttress. This area arguably has the highest concentration of easily accessible, high quality routes in the gorge.

These areas are also covered in McMahon and Narkowicz's South Esk guidebook.

restricciones

Annoyingly, there have been numerous recent reports of break-ins at the top carpark. Maybe consider taking any valuables down to the cliffs with you, or at least keep them stashed well out of sight.

Acceso

Park at the end of Corin St, near the old power station. Looking out over the river follow the track down to the river. Climbs are listed left to right as you come to them

Summary:

266 routes in Area

Mayormente Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.449603, 147.119116

Resumen

All Bouldering in the Gorge

descripción

The Basin Carpark is located on the West Launceston (South) side of the Gorge. From the carpark you'll pass through the gate and then by the chairlift. Head left along the track to the suspension bridge. The climbing is described in a clockwise fashion as you would come to it walking along the track.

restricciones

Especially with all bouldering located on the main tracks, please be very courteous to walkers. It is your responsibility to move pads out of the way of all walkers and passers by, do not ask walkers to step over your pads. Access to bouldering in the gorge is a privilege so please treat it as such and represent the climbing community in a positive and friendly way.

Acceso

For most bouldering spots in the Gorge it is favourable to park at the Basin car park. From the basin car park you'll pass through the gate and downhill past the chairlift.

Summary:

117 routes in Sector

Escalada clásica y Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.459199, 147.106654

descripción

This section describes the scattered buttresses located on the Trevallyn Reserve side of the South Esk River, downstream from the dam - and those on the opposite bank best accessed from Hoo Hoo Hut, extending as far downstream as Ramona Buttress at Duck Reach. These crags are described in McMahon and Narkowicz's 'South Esk Climbing'.

Acceso

The easiest way to access most of the crags in this area is to park at Hoo Hoo hut and walk along the fire trails through Trevallyn reserve. Alternatively, park at Duck Reach, walk across the suspension bridge and follow the track to the opposite rim of the gorge.

Summary:

9 routes in Sector

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -41.447120, 147.083601

descripción

Not actually part of the gorge proper, this is a small crag located above Trevallyn dam, not far above the dam wall. North facing and great on a sunny winter's day.

Acceso

From the access notes on Thesarvo.com - This cliff is reached from Columbus Drive: head towards the Launceston casino, take a right turn into Blackstone Rd, follow this for a few km's, turn right into Panorama Rd and follow this to a T intersection, turn right onto Bayview Drive. Hint: if you follow Bayview Dr to its end and look to the right you will see Aclai Del Lei - this will help subsequent navigation but don't start the walk from Bayview; instead go up Columbus Dr. Three houses from the end (on the NE side of the street) is what looks like a vacant block. This is actually crown land and connects with a larger area of crown land between the houses and the Hydro Tasmania land that the cliff lies on. The route to the cliff is about 300m and was taped a few years ago (not sure if they are still there though). There is a rap station set back on a boulder above Northern Man. NB: In the past access was made via the track going NW from the very end of Columbus Drive - do not go that way as this is private property and the land-owner has asked that people don't trespass.

An alternative way to access the crag is by paddling a kayak, canoe, inflatable doll or other watercraft of your choosing across from the Trevallyn Dam boat ramp, which is accessed via the Trevallyn reserve.

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Estacionalidad

17 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -41.814354, 146.877716

descripción

Mt Blackwood Summit is an old forgotten dolerite trad area, located just up the road/mountain from the more popular sandstone sport crags. Routes follow crack lines for the most part, but recently there has been a few fully bolted sport routes added.

Acceso

From the Blackwood Rocks crags access - continue climbing along Poatina Road past the last of the major hairpin bends, to locate the site of an old quarry hidden through the trees. There are a bunch of boulders blocking vehicle entry, opposite the start of a road barrier. An overgrown 4WD track can be used to access the quarry, from where it is an undulating uphill scramble across the scree fields to the base of the main cliffs. The walk should take between 40-60 minutes. Be careful walking along the scree, as it is notoriously loose in places.

Upper Right Tier (Who Among Them etc.) can be accessed by climbing up a vegetated gully that splits the lower cliffs, via a couple of fixed ropes. A rap chain has been installed at the top of this cliff (30m).

A more comprehensive guide to the area can be found in 'Climb Northern Tasmania' by Bob McMahon & Gerry Narkowicz.

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Estacionalidad

217 routes in Crag

Escalada clásica, Escalada en roca y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -41.491160, 147.283802

restricciones

All of the crags in the North Esk are on PRIVATE LAND. Please be respectful of this fact.

Riverbend, Crystal Palace, Lead Shed are closed between June - October each year for the lambing season. There are NO exceptions to this rule.

Access to these areas could be jeopardised by climbers doing the wrong thing. Sticking to the following guidelines will help:

Do not park in front of gates or access tracks. Park on the far (south) side of the gate so the owner can get ute/trailer in if she needs to. Consider parking at the bridge and walking up the road.
Leave all gates as you find them. Climb first gate on the hinge end to protect the gate and use that gate for access to both Riverbend and The Crystal Palace cliffs. When you get to the second gate (for Riverbend access) open and then close it rather than climbing over it.
Keep off any cultivated land by walking on edges of the fields. Stay away from all livestock. The cliffs will be closed annually between June - October for lambing season. Please climb elsewhere during this period.
NO DOGS!
No fires
Carry out all rubbish (including finger tape)
If you must answer a call of nature at the crag, follow leave no trace principles by going at least 50 m away from the rock or the river, dig a hole at least 15 cm deep, and carry out any toilet paper in ziplock bag.
Leave the bluetooth speakers at home, and generally remember to behave as if you were at somebody else's house (because you are).
Clean your shoes before you arrive if you have been to other farms.

Ética

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Summary:

10 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada clásica

descripción

The crags under the bridge and further downstream

Summary:

9 routes in Area

Escalada en roca y Escalada clásica

Summary:

12 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Summary:

51 routes in Area

Escalada clásica, Escalada en roca y Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -41.481099, 147.243029

restricciones

This cliff is on PRIVATE PROPERTY. Access has been generously granted by the land owner on the request that climbers shut the gate and behave, NO DOGS, avoid walking across cultivated fields. Access may be restricted seasonally due to lambing. Please do the right thing.

Acceso

Park uphill of the gate only (or alternatively at bridge car park). Jump gate 200m south of bend, cross field, through gap in trees ahead, down the hill and around the paddock to another gate which you can see from the tree line. Up next hill veering left to avoid prickles, then across open field hand-railing trees and river on left until finding large cairns at edge of slip marking descent gullies. No trail as such. Cairn is obvious.

Summary:

11 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada en roca

Summary:

13 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada en roca

Summary:

6 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca

Summary:

50 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -41.500596, 147.326394

Summary:

53 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -41.497156, 147.335981

Resumen

The furthest upstream crag on the North Esk approximately 600m upstream from Grap Fureau on the opposite side of Mt Stromboli.

descripción

Climbs range from 15 to 40m in length with some very high quality dolerite in sections.

restricciones

Access from the road is off limits and the landowner does not permit access. Same as for Grap Fureau. Therefore the only way to access these cliffs is by White Water Paddling

Acceso

Paddle the St Patricks River (hard class 3 whitewater), into the North Esk (Class 4) stopping along the way for a climb at either crag.

Alojamiento

If you wish to stay the night the bend before Castile Crag is the best location. as there is no flat land between Castile Crag and Grap Fureau.

Summary:

2 routes in Artificial

Búlder y Escalada clásica

Resumen

Urban bridge and building climbs

descripción

Concrete and steel magic

Summary:

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Estacionalidad

84 routes in Area

<5 min Arenisca

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.811601, 146.905666

Resumen

The area of free standing sandstone boulders littered throughout the forest.

Acceso

Park in the pull away/car park as for Blackwood rocks climbing or across the road from here in the car park in the hair pin. Most boulders are situated around these car parks.

Summary:

10 routes in Boulder

Lat / Long: -41.810798, 146.911254

descripción

This boulder sits below the road around 1.5km past the base of the pipeline and is a single high quality sandstone boulder with very good landings

Acceso

Park on the downhill side of the road, the boulder is clearly visible from the car. Approach is around 30 metres

Summary:

2 routes in Boulder

norte nordeste Tarda en secar Mojado con lluvia Arenisca Desplome Tumbado Vertical

Lat / Long: -41.810771, 146.902864

descripción

Short faced boulder just uphill sitting around 15m above the road.

Acceso

Park at the pull out directly below the boulder and scramble up the somewhat steep gravelly slope, there is a faint diagonal path trending uphill to downhill directly to the boulder.

Summary:

13 routes in Boulder

Lat / Long: -41.813454, 146.902727

descripción

Roadhouse block is a tall freestanding boulder with a few good quality lines on it

Acceso

Park as for Bakers Block. Roadhouse block sits in the little triangular piece of forest between the three road sections with the yellow gate on one side and the blocked 4wd track on the other side.

Summary:

25 routes in Boulder

Sol todo el día Protegido del viento Mojado con lluvia <5 min Llano Arenisca Desplome Tumbado Vertical

Lat / Long: -41.812805, 146.902533

descripción

This is the boulder in the hairpin on the downhill side of the road from the yellow gate. The boulder is clearly visible from the road once you drive through the corner.

Acceso

Best to park in the little dirt road/pull out in the hairpin, this short pull out stops directly next to the boulder. Best to reverse in to make it easier to drive out.

Summary:

5 routes in Boulder

Mojado con lluvia <5 min Arenisca

Lat / Long: -41.812882, 146.901302

descripción

Big nestled block with proud aretes and long tall vertical front face

Acceso

Coming from the Hairpin bloc, this is the first big boulder you get to when following the track

Summary:

3 routes in Boulder

Lat / Long: -41.812814, 146.901439

descripción

The chopping block is the short triangular boulder sitting in front of the Butchers Block

Acceso

Same as for Butchers Block, little boulder on the right.

Summary:

7 routes in Boulder

Sol todo el día Mojado con lluvia Llano <5 min Arenisca

Lat / Long: -41.812783, 146.900962

descripción

Freestanding boulder in the hairpin with quality lines from short to tall

Acceso

Park as for Hairpin Bloc, follow the logging track to the west of Hairpin Bloc for around 10m and follow the good track for around 30 seconds before getting to a big boulder. Head past the big boulder, following the trail and the next boulder you get to is Tea Lounge Bloc. Approach is a good 60 seconds from the car.

Summary:

4 routes in Boulder

Sol todo el día Mojado con lluvia Suave <5 min Arenisca

Lat / Long: -41.813608, 146.902310

descripción

Steep overhanging faced boulder with slab finish and mostly good landing

Acceso

Park in pull out thats blocked by boulders, Bakers Bloc is located directly uphill from there and can be seen from the car. Approach is a good 20 seconds.

Summary:

6 routes in Boulder

Lat / Long: -41.811852, 146.901987

descripción

Brick Factory is a collection of two boulders, a small upper one and the lower longer one.

Acceso

From Tollgate, head left (west) along the faint path and reach the Black Factory after around 30m.

Summary:

9 routes in Boulder

Lat / Long: -41.811895, 146.902762

descripción

Tollgate Block is the middle of three boulders down the hill from the Hairpin. Walk in is around 3 minutes

Acceso

Park as for hairpin boulders, there is a faint track around the right hand side of the hairpin boulder that leads you down to the road. Cross the road with caution and head for the road sign across the road, there is a trail that leads down the hill and left, follow this for around 2 minutes and you'll arrive at Tollgate Block

Resumen

Projection Bluff bouldering is a small boulder field at the north eastern base of Projection Bluff and is comprised of a couple dozen free standing boulders.

descripción

The Projection Bluff boulder field is primarily within 5 minutes walk from the the car park through somewhat densely vegetated alpine forest.

Acceso

Coming from the north, park at the last pull out on the left before the lookout. From the south, drive over the Projection Bluff saddle and park on the right at the first pull out after the lookout on the right.

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Estacionalidad

80 routes in Area

Mojado con lluvia Dolerita

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.548286, 147.854492

descripción

Tower Hill is a cluster of two hills, East Tower and West tower with several smaller rises and false summits on the foothills. Tower Hill is situated between Mathinna to the north, Fingal to the south east and Rossarden to the south west.

Acceso

If driving from Hobart, drive to Fingal, take a left on Mathinna Road, another left onto B42 after crossing the bridge and take a right onto C429 Tower Hill Road which is well signposted. Tower Hill Road is a well compacted gravel road with the odd deeper pothole here and there but most cars will make it up with ease. Follow Tower Hill Road for 14.8km and take a left onto Cabin Road. For the bouldering, follow Cabin Road for 3.8km and park in the bend of the road on the right, you'll see the boulders already. There is an unused Forestry gate at around 3.5kms in which you can open and close behind you. If driving down from Launceston, head to Mathinna, drive south on C429 Golden Gate Road, then right onto Tower Hill Road until you get to Cabin Road to your right.

Historia

First discovered by Doug Fyfe back in the day, then forgotten about and re-discovered by Gerry recently.

Summary:

77 routes in Field

Designado <5 min Suave Dolerita Desplome Tumbado Techo Vertical

Lat / Long: -41.543912, 147.859468

descripción

Tower Hill Bouldering is a small boulder field on a rise below East Tower. There are around 10 large free standing boulders with a bit of everything from short to tall, slab to steep. Quality of the rock is really good, however does require some extensive cleaning.

Acceso

For the bouldering, follow Cabin Road for 3.8km and park in the bend of the road on the right, you'll see the boulders already. On the right hand side you'll see a little bridge and path to the main boulders

Historia

This area is currently under development

Summary:

3 routes in Field

Designado Suave <5 min

Lat / Long: -41.551182, 147.856431

Resumen

Isengard is Tower Hill's second major area currently under development with several great lines to be done.

descripción

Just up the road from Tower Hill Main, you'll find Isengard, a stark difference in formations can be found here. Isengard is a bit more spread out than THM and a more vegetation surrounding the boulders makes sticking to the tracks a good idea which are being cairn marked. Isengard is currently being developed and will see lots more problems in the future.

Acceso

Drive up the road past Tower Hill Main for around 750m until you get to the Tower Hill West walking trail start marked with a cairn. You can park just past the cairn on the left where you'll find a couple of good flat camping/pull out spots. From here, walk south for around 80m and you'll get to an enclave of large boulders with a significant roof, this is Isengard.

Alojamiento

The parking area for Isengard is the best location for a campsite and is frequented by hikers and the occasional 4WD's.

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Estacionalidad

11 routes in Area

Mayormente Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.441307, 147.183565

Resumen

Ridgeline with a scattering of small buttresses, each with at least two half decent looking trad/sport routes and a bunch of boulder routes

restricciones

Local government land

Acceso

Park in in the busline terminus on the 401 heading towards St Lenords and walk up the grassy hill, or park on the big corner on the A3 before the hill into Waverley and walk up the creek.

Historia

Hard to believe it hasn't been climbed before, if anyone knows any info feel free to add it or change any FAs

Summary:

5 routes in Crag

Búlder y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -41.440060, 147.181011

4 routes in Area

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.440416, 147.181626

1 route in Crag

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -41.440888, 147.182151

Resumen

First buttress on the left after walking up the hill from the car park. Has a car door at the bottom of the cliff

Summary:

1 route in Boulder

Todo Búlder

descripción

Small boulder with a couple of routes near the approach gully

North East Guide

Table of contents

1. North East

1.1. Ben Lomond

1.1.1. Northern Escarpment

1.1.2. Ragged Jack

1.1.3. Africa

1.1.4. Stacks Bluff

1.1.5. Pavement Bluff

1.1.6. Ben Lomond Ice

1.2. Blackwood Rocks

Roca: Brittle when wet

1.2.1. McGifford's Edge

1.2.2. Training Wall Area

1.2.3. American Woman Area

1.2.4. The Tick Factory

1.2.5. Top Tier

1.3. Brady's Lookout

1.3.1. Main Cliff

1.3.2. Tourist Boulder

1.3.3. Satellite boulder #1

1.3.4. Satellite boulder #2

1.3.5. Three's a Crowd Boulder

1.3.6. Two Step Boulder

1.3.7. Four Step Boulder

1.3.8. Hard Times Boulder

1.3.9. Circus Boulder

1.3.10. Pyramid boulder

1.3.11. Canada Boulder

1.3.12. Free Space Boulder

1.3.13. Fault line Boulder

1.3.14. Old Brady Boulder

1.3.15. Cricket Pitch Boulder

1.3.16. Undertow Boulders

1.3.17. Baby Hands Boulder

1.3.18. Ogre Boulder

1.3.19. Playground Area

1.3.20. Berry Picking Boulder

1.3.21. Waterwheel Boulders

1.4. Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill

1.4.1. Whiskey Jim Hill

1.5. Derby

1.5.1. Cascade River

1.5.2. Derby Trout Hole

1.6. Distillery Creek

1.6.1. Whiskey Weir

1.6.2. Prohibition Hill

1.7. Hillwood (private land)

Acceso: Hillwood is OPEN!! Please read before climbing...

1.7.1. Matto Grosso

1.7.2. Rock Of Ages & Surrounds

1.7.3. Falcon Crag

Equipo fijo: Rebolting mostly complete

1.7.4. The Far Side

1.7.5. Sunset Ridge

1.7.6. Cave Rock & Surrounds