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The Birdcage Area

  • Contesto grado: AU
  • Ascensioni: 10

Stagionalità

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Descrizione

About 400m or so along the Causeway and up through the bush above the track. The Birdcage is the big guano plastered corner.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Etica ereditato da Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: Loose bolt

Three great pitches, varying in style. Start 3 metres right of The Birdcage.

  1. 25m (24) A little sparsely bolted but well within the capabilities of anyone up for the next pitch. Trend right following 5 rings to the belay.

  2. 12m (30) Very thin on beautiful rock. Up three bolts then right past another two, ignore the direct finish unless you are after a mighty challenge. Onto the grey rock and into belay cave.

  3. 20m (23) Lovely way to finish it off. Follow rings up headwall and over the top to rap chain.

Elliot

FA: Lee Cossey & Andy Richardson, 2006

First 3 ringbolts of Pitch Black then straight up wall on FHs to high anchors. Crux is right up the top and reputably desperately thin for a move. This route can also be climbed as an easier and safer pitch 1 of Pitch Black if you traverse off right to that route's belay ledge (grade 23).

Tracciata: Chris Coghill, 2007

  1. 15m Thin crack to a groove. Up this moving left and up to small ledge below guano stained wall.

  2. 40m Move up corner to guano wall, piton for aid to a well defined ledge. Traverse left for until a break in the steepness is reached, up for a few moves then up and left to belay on a tree high in corner crack.

  3. Climb chimney behind (probably wet). Awkward exit into easy gully. Stroll up gully and exit to the right - tree anchor.

FA: R. Lassman & K.Bell, 1972

10m left of the Birdcage. First pitch can be used to access the ledge above.

  1. 35m (22) Long ringbolted slab with mossy start. Belay on ledge.

  2. 20m (28) Headwall above.

FA: R.Bombala & V.Day, 2007

Left of the access route.

Position Plus!! Corners,face, roofs,slabs... what more do you want!!

Start: Climb Twisted Reality first pitch at 22 (35m), starts 10 metres left of 'Birdcage'. Traverse right across unprotected ledge to belay stance on ledge below overhung corner

FA: Adrian Laing, 2007

Up project to 2nd bolt then right to scoops and arete.

FA: C.Coppard, 2007

The next two routes are on a wall just left of the Birdcage wall - and are accessed by a slightly sketchy unroped traverse along a narrow vegetated ledge left of Twisted Reality. Belay is on a small ledge and single BR on the slab.

Part sport route, part trad route - all adventure. From belay ledge climb the left wall on sinker pockets for 2m, then wander up a series of ledges and mantles (carrots) until the wall steepens and becomes waterwashed (FHs). Get through a mild vegetation band then launch up lovely subtle arete on great rock to reach a landmark corner. Up this (fiddly wires & medium cams) for about 20m to small cave ledge. Clip bolt and climb the biggest jugs in the universe to topout onto black slab and rap chains. A 50m rope should reach the ground from here. 5 bolt plates required plus a reasonably extensive trad trad for weight training. Some parts of this route probably seeps a fair bit in a normal year - but in drought conditions its great.

One great pitch up the guts of the wall - and a pretty rubbish approach pitch. Mostly a sport route - bold climbers may even be able to climb this without any trad. Sane climbers will bring a #1 & #2 camalot for the big flake, and a sneaky #0.75 for a break before the crux. 5 bolt plates required.

  1. 15m 20. Climb Partition for three bolts, then head left around corner to ringbolt belay on small ledge (not safe to walk around unclipped). This pitch is all bolts - maybe 5?

  2. 34m 23/24. Left from the belay and up bolted wall, past a big flake (cams) then jug heaven until crimp crux trending left. Finish up orange wall with a final mantle onto teeny ledge and double ring lower-off (or belay). Rap back down - this route does not top out.

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Autore/i: Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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