Protection: Full rack: nuts, hexes, cams up to 3 - 3.5 Description: 210 metres, grade 16, fun climbing - all trad.
To find the start: up the hiker's track, about a 30min hike, to the first orange triangles below "Echo Point", rock scramble up the boulders to the lookout (rocky outcrop above Viewpoint Buttress), from the lookout, walk up about 30-40m above, to another orange triangle on a rock:
★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - short-cut in to Ruby
turn Right here & follow the track a couple of hundred meters past the "Jezebel" cracked pillar into the gully to where the track turns right & starts to slope downhill. When you arrive in the steep gully behind Egg Rock, cross the gully & climb the rock face opposite Egg Rock & bush-bash up left towards an arched cave in the main wall. Belay from this bent tree directly below the center point on the arch.
★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI belay tree
(45m 14) Take the easy ramp up right into the alcove & follow the chimney thru to 2nd chimney & corner, up obvious crack (8-10m), or alternately, step out right onto face around pillar & up to large belay ledge.
(45m 13) A zigzaggy pitch: tough moves straight up, mount the ledge, then walk up the track, right, for about 10m & climb the left leaning ramp (grade 2-3), keep trending left, up the slope, to a pillar & prominent L-facing corner. Belay at the piton below the corner (or better, below the pillar where you are sheltered from possible rockfall.)
(45m 16) Up face for 4-5m to a small root (first gear), passing a small cave & follow the line of weakness up past a small gnarly pine tree on the face. Up to ledge and into the prominent left facing corner, up corner 2-3m & step out right onto face & arete. From here up another 10m to belay ledge. Another piton here marks the belay for pitch 4.
(28m 13) Choose your own adventure up any line you choose to the trees above & belay on ledge above
(45m 14) Up the scooped alcove either way, ending up in the prominent crack on the RHS & topping out via this. (NOTE: a nice finish to this route is to link the last 2 pitches using a 70m rope.)
When exiting the mountain, track Right across the caldera as shown here to avoid the nasty 20m cliff at the gully:
★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI exit route
Look for a big forked gum tree, this will bring you to an easy (4-5m) down-climb.
Set 1971 | Prima ascensione: Rick White, Ron Collett & Keith Nannery |
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Ott 1971 | First free ascent: Tony Kelly & Jon Oddie |
Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
14,13,16,13,14 | Grado comunitario registrato |
15 | ★★★Lee Cujes |
16 | ★★Mark Gamble |
16*** | ★★★Scott Godwin |
16 [15 - 17] | grAId |
Overall quality 76 from 163 ratings.
In base a 7 valutazioni.
In base a 7 valutazioni.
Autore/i: Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson
Data: 2021
ISBN: 9377779499658
Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
Autore/i: Simon Carter
Data: 2018
ISBN: 9780958079068
A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.
Pedro Rocha su ★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - IMG-20230925-WA0001.jpg
Lachlan su ★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - DSC_1158.JPG
★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - Yep, Colin, that's the route!
Wez Wright su ★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - Pitch 3
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