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No more excuses for not leading it, thanks to Jake's peer pressure. The start of the climb is as hard as i remember it, i wish I could call this a redpoint but unfortunately i sat on the nut at the start after so many attempts, so bloody hard to pull through the initial move. The rest of the climb was a series of screams 'I'm pumped' and 'i may fall' but incredibly pull through every move.
Surely the world's hardest rock climb? I dogged this so hard it was basically an aid ascent. However this was an improvement on last time when I bailed and shamefully asked the gorgeous angel Ashley 'I am an angel' Brennan to get my gear back and set up a top rope. Also mega shoutout to Aurora for the most patient mega belay. Hopefully my shrieks of fear were mildly entertaining. I suppose I am now actively projecting this
Route has a similar flavour to Supercal: not too hard introductory climbing, an ante-crux that ensures you’re not entering the crux fresh, then gnarly crux on crimps followed by a droppable exit then kneebar. Then pumpy climbing to top with potential heartbreaker right at the anchors. Definitely skip crux clip, like on Supercal too
Easier than Supercal though and probably less connie-dependent since the crux crimps are smaller but less polished. Will eat your skin real quick for the same reason, though.
Linked start of crux to touching the anchor and falling out of pump rather than clip 😅 was way too hot for this though.
