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Tutti 67 vie visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Tetragrammaton Buttress
28 R Fodiator

Continue up the steep arête of Exocet until it reaches the roof. Instead of traversing right, place some bomber gear and blast straight up just right of the arête. After some tricky moves, the difficulty eases and is protected by good RPs and wires. Move left and up the arête.

FA: Lug 2017

Trad 47m, 2
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Alchemy Wall
27 Ockham's Razor

Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.

FA: Simon Bischoff, 2013

Trad mista 20m, 6
28 Exquisite Tenderness
Sportiva 15m, 5
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Travel Land
27 Red Line

Start as for 'Tribute', then swing left past a few more bolts up the face.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2003

Sportiva 10m
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Little Bluestone Bay - Bouldering The Pharos
V7 Blank Topic

Start on low right crimps, climb up the face to a high top out. Sharp.

Boulder
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs White Stack
27 Kodak Tart
Trad mista 15m, 2
28 Holiday In Bulimia
Sportiva 15m, 3
27 The Dark Side
Trad mista 30m, 4
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress - Bouldering Four
V7 2. Campus
Boulder
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress
28 Forever Young

Climb Crayfish Crack to reach first bolt. Crank into line, follow bolts rightwards via. some very creative movement to finish at Beamans anchors.

The exiting moves now succumb to an extreme reach as some holds have disappeared since the first ascent.

FA: Simon Young, 2011

Trad mista 25m, 5
27 Granite Planet
Trad 35m
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress
28 Animal Instincts Direct

Continue up the immaculate and crazy flared finger crack above and slightly left of Animal Instinct's hand crack. Radness

Trad 15m
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Friendly Beaches
27 Chaos Theory
Sconosciuto 20m
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs The Gonk
27 Life of Brian

On the L side of the long wall L of Dumpster, climb via a desperate boulder problem start via 5 B to DBB.

FA: Ken Palmer Mar 2013

Sportiva 15m
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
28 Total Eclipse of the Heart

The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay.

FFA: Alex Lewis, 2010

Trad 20m
28 Soft Option

Same start as Street Fighter. Head R at the top of the chimney.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2004

Sportiva 20m, 8
28 Street Fighter

Grovel up the chimney until you can get out onto the L face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2003

Sportiva 20m, 7
27 Decafe

Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2006

Sportiva 28m, 11
28 Power of the Percolator

This could be the best 28 in Tassie. A must do!

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2003

Sportiva 28m, 12
27 Tekken

The awesome shallow corner to the right of the obvious choss ramp. Up this via. some very technical moves a bit uncharacteristic of the factory. Lower off the last bolt (with ring) in the corner for the 27. Exiting onto the slab is guarded by a hard boulder problem of around V8/V9 and is still a closed project. Finish up Balance of evil. A #2 camalot can be used before the first bolt but is not essential.

Writing up as is because the only other sport climb around this grade at the factory is Street Fighter so this is a welcome addition.

FA: Alex Hartshorne, Mar 2019

SportivaProgetto 25m, 7
27 The Grand Adjudicator

10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.

FFA: Nick Hancock, 2004

Trad 25m
27 Ferret On A Leash

Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean.

FFA: Nick Hancock, 2003

Sportiva 25m, 11
27 The Supposed Golden Path

The far LH side of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête, with a tricky finish.

FFA: Nick Hancock, 2003

Sportiva 25m, 8
27 Star Wars

This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic moves downwards and left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far every one has gone L on the bigger holds. The best 27 the Factory has to offer.

FFA: Doug McConnell

Sportiva 25m, 5
28 Maxwell's Demon

Up, traverse R via mono(!), up. Stand on top to finish. Preclip the 2nd bolt if you like your ankles as they are.

FFA: Doug McConnell, 2010

Sportiva 20m, 7
28 Simply The Best

The name says it all! Just enjoy - if you can get in the groove of the style. A little cruxy at one point, but once the flared hand jam is reached the fun heats up.

FFA: Garry Phillips

Sportiva 20m
27/28 Nemesis

Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris.

Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2.

FA: Garry Phillips, Apr 2017

Trad mista 30m, 4
27 Wild Winds

Starts 2m R of the belay on the Men's Gallery ledge. Up face and corner system via some unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance route.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2005

Sportiva 15m
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs The Underworld
27 Travels By Dragonfly
Sportiva 20m
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Wombat Crag Upper Tier
27 A Bolt From The Blue
Sconosciuto 15m
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Gracelands
27 Flow Rida

FA: Ken Palmer, 2008

Sportiva 10m
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Speaker Box
27 The Crystal Maze
Sconosciuto 25m
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos Lower Slopes South Park
28 Stan

The desperately thin finger crack to the right. Big moves between good locks with tiny feet.

Razors.

FA: Nick Hancock, 2002

Trad 15m
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos North Face
27 Catch 22
  1. Sidle out right along ledge from start of Incipient and climb the flakes (natural gear) to double fixed hanger below.

  2. Climb the flake feature and corner above, with crux moves pulling into the hanging corner four bolts from the top.

FA: Nick & Heather Hancock

Sportiva 35m, 2, 9
Bicheno The Blowhole Area Mushroom Boulder
V7 The Mushroom

SDS - Pull up using crack and anything else, gain sloppy arete and then topout.

Boulder 2m
Bicheno The Block Area The Block
V7 Road Block

Hang start on the side pull jug jug and pull through to the top on slopes.

Boulder 3m
V7 V7

SDS. Start on jug, up through slopes.

Boulder 3m
V7 V7 Sit

SDS. Up using undercling and crack.

Boulder 3m
Fingal Valley Bare Rock Boneyard
27 Redneck Heaven

Takes the wall between Redneck Love and Heaven Can Wait. The climb shares a few holds with Heaven Can Wait however the upper crux is completely independent. A midway rest (where a delicate no hander can be fashioned) keeps the grade sensible.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 5 Gen 2019

Sportiva 30m
28 Chase that Feeling

The line immediately right of the big crack bordering the orange shield.

Several powerful moves low down followed by a sustained section of insecure slab climbing up the orange shield. Then a heartbreaking crux over the final roof.

FFA: Chris Coppard, 2012

Sportiva 35m
27 Barberella!

Climbs the R-trending diagonal line on the orange shield. Crosses Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs then finishes at the same anchors.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2013

Sportiva 35m
28 Jetstream

Climbs Vapour Trail to the first anchors then left via a V5 boulder.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2012

Sportiva 35m
27 Vapour Trail

Harder than it looks.

Sportiva 35m
27 Legends Never Die

Climb Vapour Trail then head far right via a steep boulder problem.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2013

Sportiva 35m
28 No Space in Time

Clip the first two bolts then up the steep Trad crack (small/medium wires and cams).

Continue up the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way and one of the best routes here.

FFA: Invgar Lidman, 2011

Trad mista 20m, 7
28 Atomic Vampire

Another brilliant line of powerful dead points and amazing side pulls, the top section is no cake walk either.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2012

Sportiva 20m
27 2 Fast 2 Furious

Sustained excellent climbing.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011

Sportiva 15m, 8
Fingal Valley Bare Rock Orange Crush Ledge
27 Ambur Allure Direct

Climbs Amber Allure to the 6th bolt, then heads directly up the steep, thin face (where AA traverses left through the bulge) via punchy moves, the join Amber Allure just before it's top headwall.

FA: Garry Phillips

Tracciata: Garry Phillips, 31 Mar 2016

Sportiva 25m
Fingal Valley Bare Rock Main Face
27 Surfer Rosa

Alternate second pitch to Black Fire.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Sportiva 30m
27 Ride the Lightning

The line 5m right of Mornings Minion. Straight up the guts of the wall.

P1 - 30m (25/26) - Crimpy, technical and sustained face climbing up the black rock.

P2 - 15m (21) - Tricky and awkward. Caution getting to the 3rd bolt from the box groove. Tricky traverse right, then thin slabbing to the belay. Can be easily combined with the next pitch.

P3 - 35m (20) - Enjoyable slabbing with the moves getting more interesting in the latter half.

P4 - 20m (25) - The boulder problem pitch. Harder if you're short. Hard boulder between 2nd and 3rd bolt, then entertaining steep blocky climbing (gr22) to belay.

P5 - 30m (27) - Fingery, thin and hard to read. The thin orange streak leading into the black headwall.

P6 - 25m (4) - Junky, loose exit pitch... but only grade 4.

Descend by rapping the route as necessary, or walking down via the approach/descent gully on the righthand side (looking out) of the summit.

FA: Andrew Martin

Sportiva 200m, 6
27 Ride the Lightening RHV
  1. 25, 30 m, bolted line 3 m right of Ride the Lightening original. Belay as for RTL original at chains.

  2. 22, 15 m, step right and up from belay. Belay at chains on comfortable ledge.

  3. 24, 30 m, thing slab up and right from belay, continuing up past dynamic harder section in the black steepening.

  4. as for RTL.

  5. as for RTL.

Sportiva 200m, 5
28 Dildano

Start right of Underestimated. Vicious.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Sportiva 25m
Fingal Valley Bare Rock Easter Rising Face
27 M1 R Masked Lapwing

Traverses the lip of The Great Roof for 40m. Why? Why not? Quite the adventure.

About as exposed as it gets, and blessed with stunning rock, and gymnastic moves. Hampered by an easy aid move at the start of each pitch, complex amounts of faff, and a somewhat sketchy second pitch.

Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, or climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).

  1. 20m (26 M1) Traverse right to a bolt. Up arete and into corner until its possible to clip bolt on right side of corner. Aid off this to gain opposing holds on either side of blunt arete, and continue freeing for the rest of the pitch. Funky, exposed, gymnastic steep climbing, with as much down as up. Finish at Green Spandex belay.

  2. 20m (27 M1 R) Climb the first 2 bolts of Green Spandex, then truck right following horizontal weakness. At 2nd new bolt (4th bolt total), clip and aid off bolt to gain reinforced jug further right. Then continue freeing along technical rising traverse until last bolt, then head directly up to gain 2 bolt belay.

NOTE: With Pitch 2, it's important to have a lot of slack in the system (aiming for 6-8m falls) in order to avoid both the roof below the headwall, and another series of roofs hidden below. Due to the fully hanging belay, its hard to effectively give slack, and throughout the crux the climber is hard to see. On the FA, the climber was fairly seriously injured hitting this low roof despite a seemingly clean fall.

To escape, rap using 2 x 60m ropes from the anchors at the end of P2. A pair of 60m dynamic ropes will just make it to the belay below P3 of Tomorrow's Dream with stretch. Be careful with rope length, and dont waste too much rope in the knot. From there, continue to rap down Tomorrow's Dream.

Sportiva 40m, 2
27 Green Spandex

Powerful moves following an incipient diagonal crack on the 20 degree overhanging headwall above The Great Roof. The Belay is a fully-hanging stance on the very lip of the roof.

Getting to the climb is a big undertaking. From the top of Bare Rock, locate the rap-access anchors for the Easter Rising Face (about 50m right (looking out) of the Supernaut top anchor, tucked away among some scraggly bushes near the cliff edge (ignore another set of anchors in the open between the Supernaut anchors and the Easter Rising anchors - these are the top-out anchors for Master of Puppets)).

Fix a 60m rope, rap down and redirect the rap-rope off a single bolt (on McDonagh face), then rap down and right (looking in) aiming for a double U-bolt belay about 10m right of the direct rap line. Redirect the rap-rope again off these anchors, and rap down the overhanging headwall (clip into bolts on the way down, as the line is very steep, and diagonal) to the belay on the lip of the Great Roof. A 60m rope JUST reaches (tie a knot in the end).

Climb the Diagonal crack past 5 bolts to the anchors. Then Jumaar 40m back to the top.

FA: Chris Coppard

Sportiva 18m, 5
Fingal Valley Bare Rock Supernaut Face
27 Fairies Wear Boots

The route on the left of the face rising leftwards out to the arete above the big roof. Start 10m down left of Supernaut and belay on the abseil chains on the slab. Up 4 bolts via the steep face (25) to stance at the base of the right trending hanging corner. Go left across the overhanging face (crux) out to the arete. Continue up the arete (23) for 5 bolts to join Supernaut. Continue up Supernaut for the last 8 bolts.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2011

Sportiva 45m, 20
Fingal Valley Bare Rock The Block
27 Ingvar's 27

Right of Isaac's Route. An utterly desperate boulder-problem start to easier climbing above.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Sportiva 10m
Fingal Valley Bare Rock New Horizons
28 Judge Dread

Stellar line up dolerite face left of ME. Classic grade 25 climbing to a crux at the top.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2014

Sportiva 15m
Fingal Valley Township Creek Fireball Pinnacle Area
28 Dark Art
Sportiva 25m
Fingal Valley Pretty End Ridge Sweet Dreams Buttress
27 Sweet Dreams

To the right of the big corner crack on the left side of the cliff is a line of bolts up a faint weakness, beginning in a short corner with a finger crack. Nice climbing up the finger crack and face to the small overlap where the hard climbing begins. A series of powerful, awesome moves up to the anchors

FA: Gary Phillips, 2 Ago 2023

Sportiva
Fingal Valley Pretty End Ridge Twin Seams Butress
27 Holding The Line

The best climb on the crag, up the challenging seam, With good but fiddly gear, don’t be tempted to head out to the bolts on the face to the left!

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 1 Nov 2023

Trad
South Sister Dinosaur Buttress
27 Let's Evolve

The giant fridge.

Sportiva 20m, 7
South Sister Pole 62
28 Garry’s Route

Start as for Out of the Shadows but break off left at half height into a vicious boulder problem.

FA: Garry Phillips

Sportiva 18m
South Sister Tea Pot Rocks
27 Doomsday Destination
Sportiva 18m
St Helens - Bay of Fires St Helens Point The Point The Tip
V6 - 8 Project Slap

Sit start on whatever holds are comfortable. huge through up to slopy crimp on the lip, match and head up through holds on the left.

BoulderProgetto 3m
V7 - 10 Project Shoulder Stand

SS on the arete and throw upwards through bad holds to topout

BoulderProgetto 3m
V7 - 11 Project Crimps

SS on the face crimps or undercling on the right side of the face and climb up.

BoulderProgetto 2m
St Helens - Bay of Fires Sloop Reef Point
V7 Watch out for Influencers

Stand start on crimps, found to left of the V8, follow the direct line getting high feet and up slopers

FA: Max de Majnik, 19 Apr 2023

Boulder 4m

Tutti 67 vie visualizzati.

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