Tutti 67 vie visualizzati.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Tetragrammaton Buttress | |||||
28 R | ★★★ Fodiator
Continue up the steep arête of Exocet until it reaches the roof. Instead of traversing right, place some bomber gear and blast straight up just right of the arête. After some tricky moves, the difficulty eases and is protected by good RPs and wires. Move left and up the arête. FA: Lug 2017 | 47m, 2 | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Alchemy Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Ockham's Razor
Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation. FA: Simon Bischoff, 2013 | 20m, 6 | |||
28 | ★ Exquisite Tenderness
| 15m, 5 | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Travel Land | |||||
27 | Red Line
Start as for 'Tribute', then swing left past a few more bolts up the face. FA: Garry Phillips, 2003 | 10m | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Little Bluestone Bay - Bouldering The Pharos | |||||
V7 | ★★ Blank Topic
Start on low right crimps, climb up the face to a high top out. Sharp. FA: Ryan Sklenica | ||||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs White Stack | |||||
27 | Kodak Tart
| 15m, 2 | |||
28 | Holiday In Bulimia
| 15m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★★ The Dark Side
| 30m, 4 | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress - Bouldering Four | |||||
V7 | 2. Campus
| ||||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | |||||
28 | ★★★ Forever Young
Climb Crayfish Crack to reach first bolt. Crank into line, follow bolts rightwards via. some very creative movement to finish at Beamans anchors. The exiting moves now succumb to an extreme reach as some holds have disappeared since the first ascent. FA: Simon Young, 2011 | 25m, 5 | |||
27 | ★★ Granite Planet
| 35m | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress | |||||
28 | ★★★ Animal Instincts Direct
Continue up the immaculate and crazy flared finger crack above and slightly left of Animal Instinct's hand crack. Radness | 15m | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Friendly Beaches | |||||
27 | ★★ Chaos Theory
| 20m | |||
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs The Gonk | |||||
27 | ★ Life of Brian
On the L side of the long wall L of Dumpster, climb via a desperate boulder problem start via 5 B to DBB. FA: Ken Palmer Mar 2013 | 15m | |||
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Star Factory | |||||
28 | ★★★ Total Eclipse of the Heart
The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay. FFA: Alex Lewis, 2010 | 20m | |||
28 | ★★ Soft Option
Same start as Street Fighter. Head R at the top of the chimney. FFA: Garry Phillips, 2004 | 20m, 8 | |||
28 | ★★ Street Fighter
Grovel up the chimney until you can get out onto the L face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic. FFA: Garry Phillips, 2003 | 20m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★★ Decafe
Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit. FFA: Garry Phillips, 2006 | 28m, 11 | |||
28 | ★★★ Power of the Percolator
This could be the best 28 in Tassie. A must do! FFA: Garry Phillips, 2003 | 28m, 12 | |||
27 | ★★ Tekken
The awesome shallow corner to the right of the obvious choss ramp. Up this via. some very technical moves a bit uncharacteristic of the factory. Lower off the last bolt (with ring) in the corner for the 27. Exiting onto the slab is guarded by a hard boulder problem of around V8/V9 and is still a closed project. Finish up Balance of evil. A #2 camalot can be used before the first bolt but is not essential. Writing up as is because the only other sport climb around this grade at the factory is Street Fighter so this is a welcome addition. FA: Alex Hartshorne, Mar 2019 | 25m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★★ The Grand Adjudicator
10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3. FFA: Nick Hancock, 2004 | 25m | |||
27 | ★★ Ferret On A Leash
Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean. FFA: Nick Hancock, 2003 | 25m, 11 | |||
27 | ★★ The Supposed Golden Path
The far LH side of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête, with a tricky finish. FFA: Nick Hancock, 2003 | 25m, 8 | |||
27 | ★★ Star Wars
This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic moves downwards and left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far every one has gone L on the bigger holds. The best 27 the Factory has to offer. FFA: Doug McConnell | 25m, 5 | |||
28 | ★★★ Maxwell's Demon
Up, traverse R via mono(!), up. Stand on top to finish. Preclip the 2nd bolt if you like your ankles as they are. FFA: Doug McConnell, 2010 | 20m, 7 | |||
28 | ★★★ Simply The Best
The name says it all! Just enjoy - if you can get in the groove of the style. A little cruxy at one point, but once the flared hand jam is reached the fun heats up. FFA: Garry Phillips | 20m | |||
27/28 | ★★ Nemesis
Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris. Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2. FA: Garry Phillips, Apr 2017 | 30m, 4 | |||
27 | ★★★ Wild Winds
Starts 2m R of the belay on the Men's Gallery ledge. Up face and corner system via some unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance route. FFA: Garry Phillips, 2005 | 15m | |||
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs The Underworld | |||||
27 | ★★★ Travels By Dragonfly
| 20m | |||
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Wombat Crag Upper Tier | |||||
27 | ★ A Bolt From The Blue
| 15m | |||
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Gracelands | |||||
27 | ★ Flow Rida
FA: Ken Palmer, 2008 | 10m | |||
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Speaker Box | |||||
27 | ★★ The Crystal Maze
| 25m | |||
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos Lower Slopes South Park | |||||
28 | ★★★ Stan
The desperately thin finger crack to the right. Big moves between good locks with tiny feet. Razors. FA: Nick Hancock, 2002 | 15m | |||
Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos North Face | |||||
27 | ★★★ Catch 22
FA: Nick & Heather Hancock | 35m, 2, 9 | |||
Bicheno The Blowhole Area Mushroom Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★ The Mushroom
SDS - Pull up using crack and anything else, gain sloppy arete and then topout. | 2m | |||
Bicheno The Block Area The Block | |||||
V7 | ★★ Road Block
Hang start on the side pull jug jug and pull through to the top on slopes. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★ V7
SDS. Start on jug, up through slopes. | 3m | |||
V7 | V7 Sit
SDS. Up using undercling and crack. | 3m | |||
Fingal Valley Bare Rock Boneyard | |||||
27 | ★ Redneck Heaven
Takes the wall between Redneck Love and Heaven Can Wait. The climb shares a few holds with Heaven Can Wait however the upper crux is completely independent. A midway rest (where a delicate no hander can be fashioned) keeps the grade sensible. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 5 Gen 2019 | 30m | |||
28 | ★★ Chase that Feeling
The line immediately right of the big crack bordering the orange shield. Several powerful moves low down followed by a sustained section of insecure slab climbing up the orange shield. Then a heartbreaking crux over the final roof. FFA: Chris Coppard, 2012 | 35m | |||
27 | ★★ Barberella!
Climbs the R-trending diagonal line on the orange shield. Crosses Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs then finishes at the same anchors. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2013 | 35m | |||
28 | ★★ Jetstream
Climbs Vapour Trail to the first anchors then left via a V5 boulder. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2012 | 35m | |||
27 | ★★★ Vapour Trail
Harder than it looks. | 35m | |||
27 | ★★ Legends Never Die
Climb Vapour Trail then head far right via a steep boulder problem. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2013 | 35m | |||
28 | ★★★ No Space in Time
Clip the first two bolts then up the steep Trad crack (small/medium wires and cams). Continue up the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way and one of the best routes here. FFA: Invgar Lidman, 2011 | 20m, 7 | |||
28 | ★★★ Atomic Vampire
Another brilliant line of powerful dead points and amazing side pulls, the top section is no cake walk either. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2012 | 20m | |||
27 | ★★ 2 Fast 2 Furious
Sustained excellent climbing. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011 | 15m, 8 | |||
Fingal Valley Bare Rock Orange Crush Ledge | |||||
27 | ★★ Ambur Allure Direct
Climbs Amber Allure to the 6th bolt, then heads directly up the steep, thin face (where AA traverses left through the bulge) via punchy moves, the join Amber Allure just before it's top headwall. FA: Garry Phillips Tracciata: Garry Phillips, 31 Mar 2016 | 25m | |||
Fingal Valley Bare Rock Main Face | |||||
27 | ★ Surfer Rosa
Alternate second pitch to Black Fire. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 30m | |||
27 | ★★★ Ride the Lightning
The line 5m right of Mornings Minion. Straight up the guts of the wall. P1 - 30m (25/26) - Crimpy, technical and sustained face climbing up the black rock. P2 - 15m (21) - Tricky and awkward. Caution getting to the 3rd bolt from the box groove. Tricky traverse right, then thin slabbing to the belay. Can be easily combined with the next pitch. P3 - 35m (20) - Enjoyable slabbing with the moves getting more interesting in the latter half. P4 - 20m (25) - The boulder problem pitch. Harder if you're short. Hard boulder between 2nd and 3rd bolt, then entertaining steep blocky climbing (gr22) to belay. P5 - 30m (27) - Fingery, thin and hard to read. The thin orange streak leading into the black headwall. P6 - 25m (4) - Junky, loose exit pitch... but only grade 4. Descend by rapping the route as necessary, or walking down via the approach/descent gully on the righthand side (looking out) of the summit. FA: Andrew Martin | 200m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Ride the Lightening RHV
FA: Andrew Martin & Ingvar Lidman | 200m, 5 | |||
28 | Dildano
Start right of Underestimated. Vicious. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 25m | |||
Fingal Valley Bare Rock Easter Rising Face | |||||
27 M1 R | ★★ Masked Lapwing
Traverses the lip of The Great Roof for 40m. Why? Why not? Quite the adventure. About as exposed as it gets, and blessed with stunning rock, and gymnastic moves. Hampered by an easy aid move at the start of each pitch, complex amounts of faff, and a somewhat sketchy second pitch. Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, or climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).
NOTE: With Pitch 2, it's important to have a lot of slack in the system (aiming for 6-8m falls) in order to avoid both the roof below the headwall, and another series of roofs hidden below. Due to the fully hanging belay, its hard to effectively give slack, and throughout the crux the climber is hard to see. On the FA, the climber was fairly seriously injured hitting this low roof despite a seemingly clean fall. To escape, rap using 2 x 60m ropes from the anchors at the end of P2. A pair of 60m dynamic ropes will just make it to the belay below P3 of Tomorrow's Dream with stretch. Be careful with rope length, and dont waste too much rope in the knot. From there, continue to rap down Tomorrow's Dream. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Jared Anderson & Stephen Varney, 5 Mag 2022 | 40m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ Green Spandex
Powerful moves following an incipient diagonal crack on the 20 degree overhanging headwall above The Great Roof. The Belay is a fully-hanging stance on the very lip of the roof. Getting to the climb is a big undertaking. From the top of Bare Rock, locate the rap-access anchors for the Easter Rising Face (about 50m right (looking out) of the Supernaut top anchor, tucked away among some scraggly bushes near the cliff edge (ignore another set of anchors in the open between the Supernaut anchors and the Easter Rising anchors - these are the top-out anchors for Master of Puppets)). Fix a 60m rope, rap down and redirect the rap-rope off a single bolt (on McDonagh face), then rap down and right (looking in) aiming for a double U-bolt belay about 10m right of the direct rap line. Redirect the rap-rope again off these anchors, and rap down the overhanging headwall (clip into bolts on the way down, as the line is very steep, and diagonal) to the belay on the lip of the Great Roof. A 60m rope JUST reaches (tie a knot in the end). Climb the Diagonal crack past 5 bolts to the anchors. Then Jumaar 40m back to the top. FA: Chris Coppard | 18m, 5 | |||
Fingal Valley Bare Rock Supernaut Face | |||||
27 | ★★ Fairies Wear Boots
The route on the left of the face rising leftwards out to the arete above the big roof. Start 10m down left of Supernaut and belay on the abseil chains on the slab. Up 4 bolts via the steep face (25) to stance at the base of the right trending hanging corner. Go left across the overhanging face (crux) out to the arete. Continue up the arete (23) for 5 bolts to join Supernaut. Continue up Supernaut for the last 8 bolts. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2011 | 45m, 20 | |||
Fingal Valley Bare Rock The Block | |||||
27 | Ingvar's 27
Right of Isaac's Route. An utterly desperate boulder-problem start to easier climbing above. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 10m | |||
Fingal Valley Bare Rock New Horizons | |||||
28 | ★★★ Judge Dread
Stellar line up dolerite face left of ME. Classic grade 25 climbing to a crux at the top. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2014 | 15m | |||
Fingal Valley Township Creek Fireball Pinnacle Area | |||||
28 | ★★★ Dark Art
| 25m | |||
Fingal Valley Pretty End Ridge Sweet Dreams Buttress | |||||
27 | ★★ Sweet Dreams
To the right of the big corner crack on the left side of the cliff is a line of bolts up a faint weakness, beginning in a short corner with a finger crack. Nice climbing up the finger crack and face to the small overlap where the hard climbing begins. A series of powerful, awesome moves up to the anchors FA: Gary Phillips, 2 Ago 2023 | ||||
Fingal Valley Pretty End Ridge Twin Seams Butress | |||||
27 | ★★★ Holding The Line
The best climb on the crag, up the challenging seam, With good but fiddly gear, don’t be tempted to head out to the bolts on the face to the left! FA: Ingvar Lidman, 1 Nov 2023 | ||||
South Sister Dinosaur Buttress | |||||
27 | ★ Let's Evolve
The giant fridge. | 20m, 7 | |||
South Sister Pole 62 | |||||
28 | ★ Garry’s Route
Start as for Out of the Shadows but break off left at half height into a vicious boulder problem. FA: Garry Phillips | 18m | |||
South Sister Tea Pot Rocks | |||||
27 | ★ Doomsday Destination
| 18m | |||
St Helens - Bay of Fires St Helens Point The Point The Tip | |||||
V6 - 8 | Project Slap
Sit start on whatever holds are comfortable. huge through up to slopy crimp on the lip, match and head up through holds on the left. | 3m | |||
V7 - 10 | Project Shoulder Stand
SS on the arete and throw upwards through bad holds to topout | 3m | |||
V7 - 11 | Project Crimps
SS on the face crimps or undercling on the right side of the face and climb up. | 2m | |||
St Helens - Bay of Fires Sloop Reef Point | |||||
V7 | ★★ Watch out for Influencers
Stand start on crimps, found to left of the V8, follow the direct line getting high feet and up slopers FA: Max de Majnik, 19 Apr 2023 | 4m |
Tutti 67 vie visualizzati.