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Main Boardwalk

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Descrizione

The L hand end of the crag where there is a well maintained track and boardwalk. There are over a dozen fixed anchors along the top of the cliff, so many of the routes can be top-roped. There's quite a lot of loose rock around so on a busy day it's a good idea to wear a helmet at all times when you're at the base of the cliff.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Falcons Lookout

The google map pin does not lead to the correct place since the new roads have been built, you need to park at the Ironbark Gorge Track Carpark. Google map link: https://tinyurl.com/rpcyq8r

Note calata

Walk off the back if you're not toproping.

Etica ereditato da Werribee Gorge

Visitors are encouraged to use this area responsibly and to adopt safe practices during all climbing and aseiling activities. The use of safety equipment, including helmets, is recommended.

Please keep to the tracks, observe access agreements, remove all rubbish, and climb safely.

Vie

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Grado Via

The flake around to the Left of 'Anal Crank'.

FA: Martin Lama (solo), 1991

The first quasi-decent sheer orange face you get to after coming down the stairs.

Up from the cave then L to the arete to DRB loweroff . 3 RBs - Rebolted Safer Cliffs Victoria June 2023

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1984

Start as for 'Anal Crank'.

Straight up the faint seam in the middle of the orange wall. There used to be a bolt ladder from the half way point, where the seam ends, but this has now been chopped, probably increasing the grade of the climb to M6-M7.

Open Project for free ascent.

4 RBs - Rebolted Safer Cliffs Victoria

FA: aided pre. Free details unknown., 1976

Start 2m Right of 'It'.

The corner.

FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1970

The corner 1m R of Brutus. Up short corner crack to ledge. Move up arete/slab (no protection) and join Brutus at layback crack.

Usually top-roped after Brutus.

As usual CB commandeered the blunt end for this "extreme" piece of climbing.

Start 9m R of 'Brutus'.

The L corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1971

Up the crack 2m Right of 'Execution' to broken blocks at the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1971

Start at small cave 1m Right of 'Persecution'.

Up the arete between 'Persecution' and 'SPQR'.

FA: Nick Reeves, 1977

Inexplicably given 3 stars in previous guides.

Start 1m R of Consul's arete.

Up the R sloping crack then R up larger crack.

FA: Bernie Lyons, Steve Craddock & Gary Lovejoy, 1971

Steep one meter right of the final head wall and climb the steep cracks.

FFA: Unknown

FA: Unknown

Pull out of cave(4m R of SPQR) and up right side of large scoop. Step R and up to to big pockets. Straight up widening cracks in the headwall.

Short face just left of 'Cuniculum' past 2 RB to DRB. Originally the climb continued easily R and up from the ledge but this only added height.

The FA used just one side runner in Cuniculum and therefore it was rarely repeated. Now retrobolted by the FA in 2023, it might see a few more ascents.

FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991

Start 10m Right of 'SPQR'.

The rotten line.

FA: Peter Jacob & John McMahon, 1971

Start 2m Right of 'Cuniculum'.

Up the black streak past 2 x RBs then Left along the easier crack.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft (Toprope), 1977

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Fairly respectable by Werribee standards.

Start 2m R of 'Ebony'.

The face the L to the arete and double U bolt loweroff with rap rings. Rebolted and rap rings added May 2023 by Safer Cliffs Victoria

FA: Andrew Cannon & Andrew Stevens, 1988

Good climbing. The gear is adequate but very fiddly; it regularly sees gear-popping falls.

Start 2m L of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

Shares French Revolution's first bolt.

Up orange wall then R to vertical seam.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft

FFA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1970

FA: Hugh Foxcroft (Aid M3), 1977

2 star hand jamming ... for about 3 moves.

The obvious hand crack to the ledge and then up the flared crack in the orange face above.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1970

A much better quality finish, though you have to pretend the block on the R isn't there.

Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

The finger crack with forks at the top. Take the L fork.

FA: Peter McKeand & Andrew Thomson, 1971

One move wonder, but still ok.

Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

The finger crack with forks at the top. Finish R up the ramp and corner.

FA: Peter McKeand & Andrew Thomson, 1971

An average sandbag squeeze job.

The bolted line between 'Hadrian' and 'Big Ears'. Rebolted May 2023 by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

FA: Brad Johnston & Marnie Pascoe, 1999

One of the best easy routes here.

Upgraded from 15 when a block came off. There's another still there at about 6m which might go someday so don't put your gear behind it.

Up the broken corner 3m R of 'Hadrian'.

FA: Peter McKeand & Andrew Thomson, 1971

This good little number is polishing it's way up through the grades.

Start 2m R of 'Big Ears'.

Suspiciously "uniform" incuts to gain sidepull flake, nice moves over black bulge. Up right past last bolt to double ring lower offs. Rebolted and rap rings added May 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1978

Contrived, but the moves up high are quite ok.

Start 3m R of 'Snatch and Grab'.

The flakey line to the arete. Climb L side of the arete. Resist the urge to stem L or R. Up to double ring lower off. Rebolted May 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria.

FA: Simon Parsons & Russell Crow, 1988

Start 4m R of 'Snatch and Grab'.

Loose scary corner/crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1971

Start as for 'Sweet Chariot'.

A few worthwhile moves up the arete between 'Death Gate' and 'Sweet Chariot' to a double U bolt lower off.

Rebolted June 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2005

Far superior to SPQR. Good jamming and interesting moves all the way up the nice corner.

The corner crack 1m R of 'Death Gate'.

FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1970

Start 1m L of Vulcan - up the arete and boulder R into and finish up Vulcan.

FA: Matt Brooks, 16 Giu 2023

Start at the corner 4m R of 'Sweet Chariot'.

Up the corner and little arete feature to the rooflet then R and up.

Rebolted May 2023

FA: Reg Marron & Nic Taylor, 1974

Climb 'Vulcan' to the flake. You can clip the third bolt of Tina the Ballerina from Pasadena and the second bolt of Barbra Streisand (or go full trad).Go R and around arete, then follow the crack in the upper L wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Ian Ross, 1970

One of the few Werribee routes that deserves the star it was given in the printed guide.

Start 1m L of 'Barbara Streisand'.

Up to flake then straight up the middle of the face. Add points for style if you finish direct over the middle of the overlap, otherwise finish up Vulcan. Rebolted May 2023 Safer Cliffs Victoria

Step R to descend from Barbara's chains.

FA: Kim Carrigan (top-rope), 1970

FFA: Wayne Jensen & David Coulson, 1990

Did a singer ever have more appropriate initials?

The bolted line L of the prominent arete. Rebolted May 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria.

FA: Kim Carrigan (top-rope), 1980

FFA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft & Jim Thomas, 1982

The corner crack just Right of 'Barbara Streisand'. Finish up the ramp to DRB

Loweroff added by Safer Cliffs Victoria 14 July 23.

Be aware a large Cunningham's skink may be in residence hiding in the flake (waist level) above the bottom shelf.

FA: Keith Lockwood, 1970

Given the limited real estate around Melbourne...

Takes the narrow face between Ben Hur and Thanos, coming close to but keeping out of the crack of Ben Hur. 5 RB to DRB anchor on the ledge.

Was freezing on the FA and we couldn't feel anything, so grade is just a guess. Expect things will settle after more ascents.

FA: @dalai & T-Bone, 16 Giu 2023

Scramble up to ledge at base of Ben Hur and follow the 4 FH up face into small corner. Originally it traversed up and right across slab to the Scipio Africanus anchors from the 4th FH, but is better to now continue straight up to the anchor of Mephisto.

The starting ledge has been lowered somewhat by others, so a stick clip for the 1st bolt is recommended.

Tracciata: Dick Lodge, 31 Gen 2015

FA: Dick Lodge, 31 Gen 2015

Start as for Hannibal, then follow the fixed hanger and ring bolts up and around the arete to rap station. The direct start through overlaps and headwall above have both been climbed at about 21.

FA: Kim Wepasnick Taggart & Glenn Tempest, 2012

Start up Scipio Africanus, clip first hanger,then first ring of that route, then continue up right hand side of the arete, via technical arete funkyness to mantle onto ledge and onto double ring lower off.

Tracciata: Dick Lodge, 30 Ott 2017

FA: Dick Lodge, 7 Nov 2017

Start as for 'Hannibal' the short crack on Left to ledge, Left and up.

FA: Ian Ross & Keith Lockwood, 1971

Start 6m Right of 'Barbara Streisand'.

Up flakes to ramp then Right into the orange corner.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, David Neilson & Michael Stone, 1971

Start as for 'Hannibal' then Right to steep Right leading corner/crack.

FA: Ian Ross & Geoff Gledhill, 1972

Previously given 2 stars ... what the?! For poor rock-starved Melbourne-ites, it'll eventually be worth doing ... but not even they could seriously give this route any stars.

Start 5m R of 'Hannibal'.

The hand-crack through the bulge, then the wider crack above the ledge, finishing up crack on L.

Bring a couple of big cams.

FA: Peter McKeand, 1971

Start 3m Right of 'Androcles'.

Up flakes to corner crack then overhang. On through blocks and ledges.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Tim Hancock & Peter McKeand, 1971

Start 2.5m Right of Cicero.

Up broken flakes to overhang then crack over blocks. Right beneath summit block to crack.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Bob Connell, 1971

Start 3m Left of 'Golgotha'.

Up arete to the ledge below Octavia's crux, then Right and up grooves to ledge. Up cracks then Left to finish up Octavia's final crack.

FA: Ian Ross & Michael Stone, 1971

Roman Warfare 27 “The first ascent required an army of support to fight his way up this feisty number” Don your armour, put some plumes in your helmet and quest up the arete, conserve the small shrub for cover, regroup your troops at the ledge where the fun begins. Stalk your way up the balancy face to ambush your enemy. Beware of booby trap loose rock in the roof let. Check for previous soldiers shin skin, leg hair and blood at the lip, mount your horse and gallop up the arete to victory. R side of the Spintrian arete to the ledge then the L wall of the Golgotha corner over the roof and up the R side of the arete to DBB loweroff

Tracciata: Matt Brooks, 14 Ago 2023

FA: Nick Murphy, 3 Set 2023

This offwidth corner crack has a fan club of thrutchaholics.

Start up the ramp on L then into and up the imposing corner-crack.

FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1971

Start as for 'Golgotha'.

Go halfway up the corner-crack then Right at the rooflet, follow the seam across to finish up Redex's finger crack.

FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan (top-tope), 1970

FFA: Simon Parsons & Matt Barrett, 1988

Start as for 'Redex Irlont Sudano' then continue straight up when Redex goes Right. Continue up the very thin face to the crack and loweroff. Started life as a 24, some holds fell off, given 25, lost some more…… and is now very thin. Rebolted May 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria

FA: Wayne Jensen, 1990

Possibly the best route at Werribee, and a nice easy tick at the grade.

Start 3m R of 'Golgotha'.

Easy slab, over bulge, then traverse R along lip. Up face 3m L of arete to gain finger crack finish. Lower-offs are on the R just below the capstone.

Rebolted June 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria

FA: Mike Law & Ian Ravenscroft, 1982

Closed Project.

Start as for Redex.Keep trucking R along the lip of the roof to the arete. Follow this to the cave. Finish as for Holiday Sidewinder.

Needs death block pinned, so if being a closed project isn't incentive enough to keep off...

Walked in with the drill and inspected it 5 years ago, but decided the rock is best suited for glue ins which I wasn't placing at the time...

Direct start to Redex up the slab past a bolt and through the bulge. Tricky move to reach the flake and 3rd bolt, then small crimps and bouldery moves to join Redex at the jug. Keep it together up the rest of Redex.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2 Lug 2023

Start as for Super Redex but take the right hand line up the steep wall and through the bulge, cross Redex and traverse into Nero on the Rampage (past the link bolt). Climb Nero through its crux to the top.

FA: Matt Brooks, 3 Set 2023

Closed Project

Start as per Holiday Sidewinder, but instead of swinging to the R side of the arete. Keep to the L joining Eye's Wide Shut Closed Project over the lip.

Excellent and seriously underrated in previous guides.

Start beneath the proud arete 3m R of Redex.

The crux bulge down low is easier than appearances suggest, but very technical...and no piking off to the R! After the 2nd RB clip the next on the R face. Above that is an awesome airy sustained arete, stay on the R side at first, but move to the L side at the cave, and at the top step L to Redex's loweroffs.

FA: Mike Law & Steve Howden, 1991

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Data: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Autore/i: Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Data: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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