Ascensioni in Juniper Canyon

Bring a double rack to link P1 and P2 (70m rope required) and bring a #4 and #5 regardless. Descent (up and over the top, go left and down climb) is exposed slab at first and then a steep class 4 gully.

What a spectacular route, 5 pitches of 3 star funk followed by 4 pitches of varnish plates which are really just runout heady sport pitches. Soon to be repeat ascensionists beware of the convenient ledge half way up pitch 7, the Mississippi mud falcon an emergency landing there, you can get a good look at it on rappel if you really want, should hopefully leave the ledge after the next spot of rain. 11 car to car, fantastic middle of the supermarket bar (????) beers to cap it off

Cold and windy

Hard but high quality.

led p2+3,7. Fell on p2,3. Hung on upper pitches. p7 is beautiful. Use stiffer shoes next time. No gear necessary. 5 hrs up, 2 hrs down (inc summit time). ~2 hr hike each way.

Insanely good. Bring more water next time though...

Not what we set out to climb.. we had planned an assault on drifting. Antoines mate had told him it doesnt get done much so its probably sandbagged. We held our hope.. and.. made it to the 3rd bolt.. of the entire route. Antoine and i got sandbagged hard by this absolute mincer of a slab move that reeks of 5.12. Being north facing, there was still alot of snow and our fingers were freezing on the wall, but still. Fook. We took advantage of the approach by punching out a very alpine style ascent of olive oil with some questionable on-the-fly clove hitch simul cache adjustments. Copped a swim in the creek on the way down and a dirty bin feed disposed of by an angry mexican at a bbq house back in vegas. Ytbins.

Arrived in the carpark and the third person i asked turned out to be alex, my climbing partner for the day from utah (splitterland). We trooped up to the wall after brekky in the carpark, i irresponsibly shed a layer to climb and we were off. Nice easy crack/scramble for about 130m. We had rockpaperscissorsd at the bottom to decide who leads odds and i thought id won seconding the 5.12 tips corner but mountain project combined the commonly linked first 2 pitches in the description so with grim acceptance, i staggered up to the interminable .2 crack. The clean run ended early in the game. A few pieces further, i climbed above the gear into a very tenuous position, pulled a cam off my harness, had a footslip and threw the cam off the cliff to grab a crimp and avoid the 3m whipper onto a bomber cam.. coincidentally the very night before, johnny sullivan had recounted this very act from the nico favresse carbondale shortbus video. Maybe he put the idea in my head. I took the whip. Alex was caught between "nice push dude" and "did you just lob my cam off pitch 4 of a multi?". Luckily it landed on the pitch 1 belay ledge and we could easily retrieve it on the rap down. I freed all the moves but doing the pitch as a send would be pump city.. especially as a committed layback (as the description hints). Whoever climbs it that way needs to contact me explaining how they get their fingers through the metal detector at the airport! Alex reckoned he laybacked some of it so maybe i could have asked him. Alex then made the best of a spooky run out 5.10 pitch after recommending out of my arse that we skimp on fist sizes. Then i climbed the 7m slot pitch, setting him up with the creek-style '5.10+' final pitch that turned out to be solid 11c. His difficulties on lead were not felt by me, basking on the ledge after the notch put us on the sunny west face. Hard catches only! We rapped down, packed the bags and rockhopped the pine creek bed back to the cars. A stellar day out on some of the finest red rocks in red rock

Unique and absolutely amazing climbing over a plated face.

Would give mega classic, if there were no spots with worse material

Cool climbing. P3 we climbed the face with bolts of the next route. We linked P1+P2, P3+P4, P5+P6. The flake is really thin and sweet!!

Feels hard for the grade. But I didnt climb much in RR. P3 is the key. We also did the pitch 5 a- quite a nice climbing. 2h 45m climbing to the top of P5 and about 30min rapelling.

The approach is exhausting. Took us maybe 2 hours.

Climbed only to P2 anchor

Gave Eva the glory pitches so I led 1, 4 and 5.

Pretty and varied climb!

Starting easy with some 5.8-5.10 pitches, that offer nice climbing. Had to rest twice in the crux pitch. Tricky and difficult to read but can be very well protected. Pitch 5 (the offwidth) is very nice, due to the fact that not really any offwidth technique is needed. The squeeze chimney P6 was fun and much less crazy than expected. The last pitch ends with a pumpy right facing corner with a mix of small to big hands and some overhanging sections. Massive pump.