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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
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Ancient Mariner Buttress | |||||
23 | Silent Rage (Crunch's Variant)
Start as for Mr Curly then left on FHs into top of Silent Rage. To keep it at the grade you probably want to do the round-the-world way out left of the last bolt. FA: john smoothy | 12m | |||
Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | |||||
23 | ★ Sprouts Mexicane
Sharp jugs. Lefthand route on the main wall. Start as for Sydney Rose, traverse left for three bolts then head up the steepness. FA: S.Bell & C.Vandereydt, 1995 | 15m | |||
23 R | ★★ Eureka
A very worthwhile alternative to Euchre; shared start for 5-6m then head left. The run out to the anchor is exciting but easy. Now has new ringbolts. FA: L.Trihey & J.Smoothy, 1989 | 25m | |||
23 | ★★ Euchre
FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 | 22m | |||
23 | ★★★ Lyptus
One of the best warm ups for the harder routes and a fine route to earn the grade also. Very popular. Anchor replaced 16/10/18. [If the headwall of this route is wet, an equally good but dry 23 is “Lyptus Power”: Lyptus to the crux then easily R across Grape Hour (which will also be wet up high), to join Grey Power]. FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 | 23m, 8 | |||
23 | ★ Offal
A solid 23. Located 80m right of Big Wednesday. Rebolted 2018 thanks to Kip for the bolts. Stickclip first u bolt and also use draw on mallion to keep rope and belayer in a nice place. Very chossy and hard moving past first bolt. The difficulties continue until eventually settled in corner. From there on up good climbing on dirty rock. If everybody brushes something it should clean up nicely. FFA: Mikl Law, 1883 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Open Slather
Walk about 80m past Big Wednesday. Very high stickclip then traverse in from right and across to big ledge. Consider a sling on first bolt otherwise noticeable ropedrag. Up to second bolt with care then good sustained climbing to loweroff. Rebolted with U-Bolts courtesy of Kip. December 2018. FFA: Mike Stacey, 1991 | 20m | |||
Lower Cliff | |||||
23 | A Permanent Shiver
Route has not been located. From 2002 print guide "Rap in from carrots down and right from Albatross. Up again past carrots and fixed hangers." This route may also require trad but it was not mentioned in the original write-up. FA: Wade Stevens, 1996 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Pop the Question
An exciting long subtle arete route which hasn't had a lot of love. Still totally climbable despite a bit of lichen here and there. Maybe the new bolts may lure a new generation? Fix a 50m rap rope from two U bolts set well back from edge above small corner. Rap down, (clipping into a few bolts as directionals) to a total hanging belay on single bolt and #2 Friend about 10m above the ground. The route is mixed and wanders a bit so you need at a double set of medium sized cams (0.5 to 3 Camelot) and a bunch of long runners. Rebolted 2020 - no bolt plates required anymore. FA: L.Trihey, L.Korendyke & J.Smoothy, 1989 | 45m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Naughty Little Monkey
Absolutely worth the hassle of a rap in climb out route. Brilliant orange rock for most of the way and visible from above from right side of Ferris Cave. Added bonus - belay is from a small ledge - not a pain hanging belay like other routes here. Shares the same rap anchor as Pop the Question (two U-bolts above short corner) but rap straight down to small ledge (about halfway down the wall). Bizarrely bolted with a totally random mix of carrots and rings - so bring at least 8 bolt plates. FA: M.Bennis, 2000 | 30m | |||
Alphabet Wall | |||||
23 | ★ Freakin 'n Groovin
FA: P Martin | 15m | |||
23 | ★ C
Far right route on wall - written up as 25m but old topo show it the same height as nearby routes (15m) FA: Saxon Johns, 1994 | 25m |
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