★★ Annually Fixated 17

Chimney climbing.

When you get to Spiderbait, don't continue on into the massive echoey cathedral area (Aptogen/Eptogen inside). Instead go right (towards the river) down a short slot, descending a few metres, then walk left (Eastish) for 15 or so meters under a large high arched roof. At the Eastern end look up for the obvious chimney/cave. The topo is more an indication - you can't see much of the climb from the front, but without 3D I thought tracing the actual route would make people think it was a face climb.

The first bolt is about 5m up a pretty friendly scramble, then continue up into the cave, then squeezing left to 3 belaying bolts about 15m (half-way) up.

Use them.

Running a >60m rope all the way up to the top is possible with your belayer on the ground but unwise. There are so many twists on the way, so much rope out, and most importantly the final anchors are pretty much over the top, so the rope drag/friction means the belayer can't give any slack at all - to get down the climber has to pull the toprope up all the way to be able to descend. And then it's impossible to pull the rope once they're down.

Instead put yourself on protection and belay your partner up (a little cramped, but there's enough of a ledge to stand on near the mid-point bolts). Finish the climb from there worming up though several meters of chimney, and then some easy slabbing back out on the face to finish. Even belaying from half-way there's still heaps of resistance after cleaning because of the unhappily placed final anchor bolts, but at least it makes it possible to get your rope back.

Just make sure you're comfortable with belaying from above and then lowering yourself from the midpoint bolts to finish after you've dropped your partner back down. Also the climber is often out of sight.

Easy enough moves on a long novel climb, but you have to manage all this annoying friction just for the small reward of a few unmemorable metres after the chimney.

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.