등정들 The Sanctuary에서

Finally unlocked the crux! Sneaky undercling is the way

Hard first move off the deck. Pretty consistently pumpy. More like a gym 10b, no good rests until halfway up

At 6’4” I really can’t take more than 11b for that crux. I’ve been on harder 11a’s. Top is great, with an exposed arête and pumpy finish.

Yes!!

Got the hard move twice!

1 hang! Got the hard move 2nd go then clean to the chains

Failing at the hard move down low..

~

Finally figured out the big move down low!

1 hang didn't get the hard move again though. Powered down...

Learning the moves.

Fuck yeah!!! Both cruxes felt a little desperate but so much more solid than I would have imagined. First second go send of 5.12d!

Still need to figure out the pocket sequence down low but feels very possible!

Buenisima ruta, boulder en el desplome y bcrux para salir a cadenas super tecnico y medio lanze

A nada de onsightearmelo. Me cai en el ultimo crux a 1 bolt de cadenas. Boulder de tercera banda super chido.

First redpoint burn today after a bolt-to-bolt to warmup and equip. Felt strong and climbed well (its amazing what temperatures about 0 do for one's climbing ability), and sending this was a great end-cap to the trip, finishing in mega-classic fashion. Getting the team-send with Will Vidler was just the perfect conclusion.

Ugh. The rock is generally quite average, but the bouldery start and the climbing around the crux is enjoyable. The crux itself is 5 moves of heinousness. After breaking off one of the crux micro-crimps, and spending a bunch of time to put together another sequence, I decided that I couldnt be bothered.

Loved the dihedral boulder problem start. The rest of the route across the face and up the arete is fun but only about 10c.

Perfect finish to the trip with a team send of this route! Just absolute class and absolute fun, it doesn’t get much better! Stoked beyond belief. I warmed up on it then bungled a move on my first red point go today, but it went fairly easily after that and I felt gloriously solid on the tricky crux up high. I probably owe this ascent to the weather gods for finally bringing some manageable temperatures! Third shot today plus one exploratory lap the other week and three hopeless goes on the freezing day of death. Now on to Vegas and J-Tree!!

3 more Red point burns when the warmest it got all day was -1 (and as low as -7). 2nd lap I had my frozen hands on the victory jugs but no capacity to hold on (had been totally numb for the entire upper crux). Proper heartbreaker and ensuing temper tantrum.

Three goes in the worstest most arctic-est weather ever. The forecasted max temp for the day was -1 and that wasn’t until 3pm. Radical radical route but no real hopes of a send in such horrendous temperatures. I did get the beta down pat though.

Super rad and surprisingly sustained. On my flash attempt I fell off at the first bolt, then went from below that move to the top and fell off at the last move... probably a good think I didnt link to the end . My favourite of the routes here, as the jumpy roof start is awesome, and the final duelling pockets is spectacular.

Very broken up, but 3 x super rad cruxes in different styles. The bouldery pocketed start is the highlight, but the face sections are interesting mono slabbing. Really cool. Prolly 12c.

Less interesting moves but more sustained and probably better than Triple Sec. This wall is STACKED! We’ll be back for sure.

Brilliant face climb in my style but probably more like low end 12c regardless. I had one go to equip it, then had a false start on the bottom boulder, came down and rested for 10 minutes then sent it packing. Stoked!

#2go

3th today