Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
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Fri 25th Apr 2025 - West Rock State Park | |||||||
South Buttress Ball Field Slabs | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Nickel And Dime - with Daniel Soh | ★ Good | |||||
the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die
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5.8 | ★ Nickel And Dime - with Daniel Soh | ★ Good | |||||
the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die
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Sat 8th Jun 2024 - Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park | |||||||
North Chasm View Wall | |||||||
5.9 III ~5.10a | ★★★ Escape Artist | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sat 8th Jun 2024 - Rocky Mountain National Park | |||||||
Estes Park Valley Highway 7 And Tributaries Lily Mountain Quickie Cliff | |||||||
5.10b/c | ★ Trophy Wife - with Flavia Hug | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Sketchy start up to first bolt (at least for short people like me). Techy and balancy afterwards.
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5.10b | ★ Atrophied Husband - with Flavia Hug | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
One move wonder
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5.10 | ★★★ Chokin' the Chickenhead - with Flavia Hug | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.6 | ★ Ascent of a Woman - with Flavia Hug | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Slightly slabby start, easy finish.
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5.8 | ★ Pickup Line - with Flavia Hug | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Slabby start, easy finish
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5.5 Hard | ★ Casual Six - with Flavia Hug | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Hard move for the grade up to first bolt, cruising afterwards
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Fri 7th Jun 2024 - Wild Iris | |||||||
OK Corral | |||||||
5.10d ~5.10c | ★★ Dirty Sally - with Matt | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Lovely, long.
Flake work and delicate feet. Moves either side of the line in thought-provoking, committing ways. It's a 5.10b on Mountain Project - maybe moreso due to retro-bolting in 2018 (sounds a bit sketch prior to then). I would go with 5.10c. And, it'll throw you if you aren't techy or used to the style. My friend sat a lot on it after working two harder climbs earlier in the day. An absolutely joy, another 5.10 of the day I would come back and do again 👌 |
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5.10b Hard | ★★★ Doob Loob - with Matt | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
The line for the grade here!! What a freaking climb 😘👌, probably sandbagged for QLD standards 😅
Deliciously long. The view at the top is a straight out of LOTR. Varied - crack at the start, a stemmy corner with a bulge/rooflet to work around, delicate pockets, 2 hands-free rests and a roof that made me sit on gear until I could see the Savior.Pocket that takes you to sweets jugs for the anchor. So bummed I was one move from the onsight. (Also, the name on Mountain Project is Boob Loob) |
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5.8 | ★ Phat Phinger Phrenzy - with Matt | 15m, 6 | |||||
Holy Stemming Batman! Was not ready for this as my starter for the day! Felt run out and was not my style, so for me, harder than 5.8. had to have a sit & think. For what I have climbed in the area, it is unique.
I stayed left at the top whereas there are some hectic off width photos on the RHS on Mountain Project. |
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5.10a Hard | ★ Brown Dirt Cowgirl - with Matt | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Delicate with some thin flake work. I think this would get a 19/20 grade in Ewbanks. Stacked Deck (5.10b, felt easier than this).
Really enjoyed it. Has been retro bolted - I want to say 5 draws now - a few on this wall are now much better bolter with RB's |
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5.10b | ★★ Stacked Deck - with Matt | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lovely huecos (buckets) greet you at the start with some tech-y middle around a small bulge. Lovely
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5.9 | ★★ Iron Horse with a Twisted Heart - with Matt | ||||||
Delicate slab and small hand hold and tiny feet. Run-out so a fall would equal a parmesan cheese grater (which is what keeps it at 5.9 IMHO).
Lots of people bagged it on Mountain Project; and, I didn't hate it. It would have to be your style though. Wouldn't give it the 2 stars. |
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5.10b | ★ Ride Me Cowgirl - with Matt | 14m, 5 | |||||
Run-out compared to Dirty Sally, shorter. Had some nice techy areas, the run-out probably making it the grade versus the length/moves. Sharper rock than Dirty Sally, and a bit of a let down after the beauty of the route (Dirty Sally) that was to the right
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5.10c ~5.10d | ★ Matilda's Last Waltz - with Matt | ||||||
Tried this after mis-reading Mountain Project & The Crag. Was looking for Stacked Deck (the next one to the left) Very boulder-y, spanny start. Bailed at the first clip. Matt went up it after - it was basically watching him dog up a slabby, crimpy hug-fest fridge.
Frankly, unless you like to hate yourself to the 6th layer of Hell, I would avoid this one, there are so many other lovely 5.10's and 5.11's within 5-10minutes walk. |
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Fri 7th Jun 2024 - Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park | |||||||
The Checkerboard Wall | |||||||
5.9 II | ★★ Maiden Voyage | ★ Good | |||||
Thu 6th Jun 2024 - Cragmont Park | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Cragmont Crack | 11m | |||||
5.11a | ★ Cave Route Left — 3 attempts | 11m | |||||
5.10b | ★ Farewell To Arms — 3 attempts | 11m, 4 | |||||
5.8 | ★ The Seam | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 6th Jun 2024 - Wild Iris | |||||||
OK Corral | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ La Vaca Peligrosa - with Matt, Shazzy | 12m | |||||
Thought-inducing pocket-fest. Was told by some locals it’s a classic. I can see why
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5.10a | ★★ Red Ryder - with Matt, Shazzy | 17m, 7 | |||||
Lovely line - long for area and varied. Rooflet took some thinking. Distance between draws compared to the other ones previously made it feel more committing than what it probably was. I kept right at the top, the others went more direct from last bolt to anchor
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5.9 | ★ Annie Get your Drill - with Matt, Shazzy | 12m, 6 | |||||
Slabby-er than worded, but a pleasant welcome to Wild Iris 👌
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5.10d | ★★ Claim Jumper - with Matt, Shazzy | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10c on Mountain Project - could be a 5.10d by Aussie standards/style. I really like the layback start but it caught me in the wrong direction about halfway up. Fine edges for feet/foot jam if you know how to use them, otherwise it’s ruthless. Thin, middle but with rests. Top has lovely jugs if you know where to fine them. Demands commitment throughout. Great climb
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5.6 | ★★ Utah Carol - with Matt, Shazzy | 16m, 6 | |||||
Lovely flake start onto slab. A pleasant little ease in
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Thu 6th Jun 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Five and Dime | 27m | |||||
J and I were the only ones stupid enough to crag here in the sun during a heatwave so we had the crag to ourselves. That was until J was halfway up the finger crack and a shirtless fella stumbled out of the trees asking what the climbs here were. Proceeded to lay on a rock beside my belay spot, staring into the sun like a lizard, he introduced himself as Hans - asked me where I was from, what the Aussie climbing was like and telling me about his time in Araps and the Bluies. He then without a word stumbled back into the bushes. I had to Google to check if new grandpa Hans was the Hans (Florine), which he was. J returned to Earth and I sprayed about what just happened - only for more rustling in the bushes and back comes Hans with Yuji Hirayama behind him. We shared the crag for the rest of the afternoon with some very entertaining discussion while trading belays. Yuji made comments about his lack of hand jam endurance on five and dime which made me feel better after dogging the fuck out of it after Hans exclaimed "show us what you got Mr Frog Buttress"
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Thu 6th Jun 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
Lower Old Road Honky Tonk | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Boot Scoot Boogie | ★★ Very Good | |||||
The second last bolt is loose and should not be clipped (5/06/24)
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Thu 6th Jun 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
Lower Old Road Powers Wall | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Scotty Don't | ★★★ Classic | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Scotty | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Thu 6th Jun 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
Downtown Area John Henry Grotto | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ John Henry | 21m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 6th Jun 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
Downtown Area Coolsville | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Stick It Into Coolsville | 90m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 5th Jun 2024 - Independence Pass | |||||||
Monitor Rock Trailhead Wall | |||||||
5.8 PG13 |
★★ Trooper Traverse
1
2
3
4
5.9 Right Variation | 120m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Squid Kid | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Wed 5th Jun 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.10a X | ★ Copper Penny | 27m | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Keystone Corner | 24m | |||||
Wed 5th Jun 2024 - Denver | |||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Highwire crag | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Everything Rhymes With Orange | 26m | |||||
5.9 | ★ Nickels and Dimes | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Dueces Wild | 37m | |||||
5.9 | The Contrarian | ||||||
5.9 R | ★ Passing Lane | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Cracker Jack | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Ace in the Hole | ||||||
5.8 | ★ pony up | ||||||
Wed 5th Jun 2024 - Denver | |||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Canal Zone | |||||||
5.10b | Bear 's Choice — 2 attempts | 23m | Don't Bother | ||||
5.10b | Bear 's Choice | 23m | |||||
Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Wild Iris | |||||||
Main Wall Hot Tamale | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Hey, Mr. Vaquero | ★★★ Classic | |||||
5.11d ~5.12a | ★★★ Hot Tamale Baby | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Wild Iris | |||||||
Main Wall Wild Horses | |||||||
5.10d ~5.10b | ★★★ Pronghorn Tramp | 15m | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Star Spangled Rodeo | 15m, 6 | |||||
Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Rifle Mountain Park | |||||||
The Meat Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Cold Cuts | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11b | ★★ 80 Feet of Meat | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Animal World Lower Animal World | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Animation | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.7 | ★ Baby Dog | 27m, 14 | Average | ||||
Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Denver | |||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Little Eiger | |||||||
5.10 ~5.10+ | ★★★ Busch Gardens - with Matt | 30m | |||||
Beautiful, techy climb - varied. Slab start, to a beautiful roof with a committing highfoot move and exposed clip far above the roof, finishing with flowy, techy work with precise feet. Would have a higher grade on the Aussie Ewbanks system.
Fell at the roof - a great climb. Runout spoken about before anchor (on Mountain Project) has since been eliminated, and still feels ballsy AF. So happy for to take the charge on this one and put up the draws. Friend/belay partner felt this was a harder climb than Bush Administration to the left (though less sustained). Would climb this and First Impressions again. This wall is stunning. |
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5.9 Hard | ★★ First Impressions - with Matt | ||||||
How this doesn't have 3 stars on The Crag is beyond me. Varied, overhung and just a stunning long line with great exposure and moves for the grade. If you have to choose between this and Herbal Essences for a warm-up, choose this one. Unless you're a slab fiend.
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5.9 Hard | ★★ Herbal Essence - with Matt | 12 | |||||
Slabby start gets more overhung as you go. Nice and long, a harder 5.9 than those in the Canal Zone
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Boulder | |||||||
Eldorado Canyon State Park Eldorado Canyon South Peanuts Wall Lower Peanuts Wall, Upper West Face | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Dihedral - with Barb | ||||||
wussed out of RH variant
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5.6 | ★★ Your Basic Lieback - with Barb | ||||||
with direct start, intended to swing 3 pitches to the top so pitched it out, but ended up leading this pitch too
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
French Cattle Ranch Euro-Trash | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Warewolves in London | 13 | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
French Cattle Ranch Shinto | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Center El Shinto | 21m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.12a | ★★★ Wu-Tangs Wild Shinto Ride | 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.12a | ★★ The Dope Shinto | 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V8 | Diesel | ||||||
First three moves 🙂
Busted my knee 🙃 |
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.10a X | ★ Copper Penny | 27m | |||||
Remove the X maybe up the grade to 5.10 ambiguous
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
French Cattle Ranch Eldorado Coral Club | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Crossbow Chaos Theory | 27m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Prespice blow | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
French Cattle Ranch Grasshopper Wall | |||||||
5.13a | ★★ Dances with cows | 9 | |||||
Coming back for the send (if my fingers let me)
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Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
French Cattle Ranch Shinto | |||||||
5.12a | WuTang's Secret Shinto Ride | ||||||
Pull two 5.12 moves then victory 5.9 slab. Unfortunately I fell on the 5.12 moves on my flash
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Cragmont Park | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Farewell To Arms — 3 attempts | 11m, 4 | |||||
5.10a | ★ Cave Route — 2 attempts | 11m | |||||
Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - St. George | |||||||
Lamb's Knoll Mutton Block | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Beastiality | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - St. George | |||||||
Lamb's Knoll Ewe Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Ewe-topia | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Ewe-bonics | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11c | ★★★ Screw Ewe | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Devil's Lake State Park | |||||||
The East Bluff Railroad Tracks Railroad Amphitheater | |||||||
5.6 R | ★★ Pine Tree Step-Across | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5.5 ~5.6 | Pine Tree Dihedral | Average | |||||
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Northwest Face | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Regular Northwest Face | 670m | |||||
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Zion National Park | |||||||
The Confluence | |||||||
5.11 |
Smashmouth
1
2
3
4
| 120m | |||||
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Tahquitz | |||||||
The West Face Left Side | |||||||
5.0 ~5.6 | ★ The Trough | ★★★ Classic | |||||
First route at Tahquitz! Led all pitches. Sandbagged af. "Downclimb" first requires a 100 ft friction slab up climb 😅 and then a tricky descent on a v steep gulley.
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Trashcan Rock West Face | |||||||
5.5 ~5.7 | The Trough | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Led all pitches! The downclimb is a trip -- first you friction slab 100 feet and then find a windy path to the right for a steep down hike/climb.
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Miller Fork Recreational Preserve Camelot | |||||||
5.8 | ★ European Swallow | 8m | |||||
5.8 | ★ European Swallow | 8m | |||||
5.8 | ★ The Snows of Winter | 9m | |||||
5.8 | ★ The Snows of Winter | 9m | |||||
5.8 | ★ European Swallow | 8m | |||||
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Denver | |||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Canal Zone | |||||||
5.8 Hard | Levada - with Matt | 24m | |||||
Going with my Canal tradition of sheit-ing the bed on the first climb before nothing but Send Train on harder things after.
Quite nice, varied - but the middle fridge-y area might throw you if you read it wrong like I did. Slabby like many of the lower grade routes here. Still worth a star compared to some of the other 5.8 I did. |
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5.10a/b | Lambada - with Matt | 18m | |||||
A blast. Guidebook gives it star(s) and I would absolutely agree.
Some might find the slab section challenging, but it was fine for me. Loved the slightly overhung section up to a good roof. |
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5.10- | ★★ Panama Red - with Matt | 15m | |||||
Found this a more challenging route than Ivy League. Some committing moves if this is the upper end of your grade Surprisingly crimpy. Beautifully vertical compared to the other climbs I've done in the crag.
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5.10a | Ivy League - with Matt | 15m | |||||
Lovely, felt delicate. This and Panama Red are nicely vertical compared to the others.
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5.9 | ★★★ Made In The Shade - with Matt | 38m | |||||
Delightful, still slabby, but varied. Worth the 3 stars. Yes, a 70m rope will work for the full route + lowering. Needs about 20 draws, but you can skip the first FH (placed pretty needlessly IMHO), and skip/recycle draws in a couple of places safely
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5.9 | ★★ Berga - with Matt | 24m | |||||
Stemmy - varied for the area, a nice way to end the session
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5.8 | ★ Holiday Road - with Matt | 21m | |||||
Better flow than Venice Beach (climb to left). Still slabby, but better
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5.8 | Venice Beach - with Matt | 23m | |||||
Had to stop to think/read it. Clean otherwise. First climb in N. America so slab style a bit foreign to me
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Hanging Mountain | |||||||
Murdock Wall | |||||||
5.5 | Full Murdock - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | 1 | |||||
Led myself to demonstrate
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5.5 | Full Murdock - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | 1 | |||||
Checked Jasson's placements
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5.5 | Full Murdock - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | 1 | |||||
Checked Kate's placements
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5.10a Easy | The Butterfly Effect - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | ||||||
Not too bad. Could lead without trouble. Dirty. Easier than expected after Grotto climbs. I think Compass Rose was harder.
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Hanging Mountain | |||||||
The Grotto | |||||||
5.9 Hard | Compass Rose - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | 5 | |||||
Checked Yarrow's placements
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