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Looking Glass Wall Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Andrew Clark Cameron Roy Douglas Hockly muki Woods Mikie Bob

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

部分内容经许可发布自: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Looking Glass Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

季节分布

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: -36.754671, 141.841527

描述

The water-streaked slab on the L up the gully behind Voodoo Buttress.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Voodoo Area

准入问题

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

取自Arapiles

行为准则

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

取自Arapiles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Doo Voo

Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange'. Finish up crack in headwall.

首攀: Allan Hope & Peter Watling, 1991

9 传统攀登 35m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Happy Balance

Brushed streak at left end of the main wall. Rock Bollard for sling or abseil

Start: Start 5 metres left of Hard And Fast, about 25 metres right of 'Doo Voo'.

首攀: Lincoln Shepherd & Natalie Green

21 R 传统攀登 18m
3 Four Wheel Drive

Climb straight up the slab. Finish up on jugs. No Pro.

Start: Start immediately R of 'Happy Balance'.

首攀: Patrick Alseby, 1998

25 X 传统攀登 18m
4 Hard and Fast

Contrived and poorly protected.

首攀: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1976

19 R 传统攀登 55m
5 Hand Job

The lovely water-streak 5 metres right of 'Happy Balance' has a hard, poorly protected start.

首攀: Chris Baxter, Mike Law & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

15 传统攀登 23m
6 Final Blow

Follow intermittent cracks on wall. Finish up lovely twin orange and black streaked rock through short roof. Goes straight to new abseil anchors at 23 m

Start: Start between 'Hand Job' and Menage A Trois.

首攀: Darren Williams & Kylie Burford, 1995

20 传统攀登 55m
7 Menage a Trois

Great climbing up the green crack 3 metres right of 'Hand Job'.

首攀: Chris Baxter, Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1976

16 传统攀登 23m
8 Blow by Blow

A bouldery, unprotected start leads to easier climbing up the centre of the next water-polished area. For added excitement, veer right through the bulge higher up.

首攀: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1976

16 R 传统攀登 59m
9 Sore Point

Centre of next water-polished area. Bouldery start eases.

首攀: Mike Law (solo), 1981

18 传统攀登 40m
10 Rock Soff direct finish

A good way to finish Rock Soff Follow the cracks to theer end then head through the bulge where Blow by Blow head through it

首攀: adam demmert & @cathdv

15 传统攀登 30m
11 Rock Soff

Climb the corner crack behind big dead tree until it eases. There are two options : either, diagonal leftwards on big holds to a nice finish and traverse off to rap anchor,

or continue up corner until it ends, move right, climb short corner and step up left over bulge and continue to top (58 metres, original route)

首攀: Chris Baxter, Mike Law & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

13 传统攀登 58m
12 Grand Prix

Start 1 metre right of 'Rock Soff' and boulder up.

首攀: Mike Law (solo), 1981

19 传统攀登 30m
13 Hot Tip

Up white streak to short crack in face. Up clean rock and over wee roof.

Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Rock Soff' in middle of white streak.

首攀: Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1976

15 传统攀登 50m
14 Goanna

Climb streak all the way past ledges.

Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak

首攀: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1981

12 传统攀登 60m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
9 Doo Voo 传统攀登 35m
12 Goanna 传统攀登 60m
13 Rock Soff 传统攀登 58m
15 Hand Job 传统攀登 23m
Hot Tip 传统攀登 50m
Rock Soff direct finish 传统攀登 30m
16 Menage a Trois 传统攀登 23m
16 R Blow by Blow 传统攀登 59m
18 Sore Point 传统攀登 40m
19 Grand Prix 传统攀登 30m
19 R Hard and Fast 传统攀登 55m
20 Final Blow 传统攀登 55m
21 R Happy Balance 传统攀登 18m
25 X Four Wheel Drive 传统攀登 18m
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