A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran Campbell Gome Vanessa Wills John Pitcairn Andrew Clark Cameron Roy Douglas Hockly muki Woods Mikie Bob Hywel Rowlands
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
部分内容经许可发布自: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Looking Glass Wall 14 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Looking Glass Wall 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
所有 传统攀登
Lat / Long: -36.754671, 141.841527
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
描述
The water-streaked slab on the L up the gully behind Voodoo Buttress.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Voodoo Area
准入问题
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
行为准则
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Doo Voo
Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange'. Finish up crack in headwall. 首攀: Allan Hope & Peter Watling, 1991 | 9 | 35m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
Happy Balance
Brushed streak at left end of the main wall. Rock Bollard for sling or abseil Start: Start 5 metres left of Hard And Fast, about 25 metres right of 'Doo Voo'. 首攀: Lincoln Shepherd & Natalie Green | 21 R | 18m | |||||
3 |
Four Wheel Drive
Climb straight up the slab. Finish up on jugs. No Pro. Start: Start immediately R of 'Happy Balance'. 首攀: Patrick Alseby, 1998 | 25 X | 18m | |||||
4 |
Hard and Fast
Contrived and poorly protected. 首攀: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1976 | 19 R | 55m | |||||
5 |
★ Hand Job
The lovely water-streak 5 metres right of 'Happy Balance' has a hard, poorly protected start. 首攀: Chris Baxter, Mike Law & Francine Gilfedder, 1976 | 15 | 23m | |||||
6 |
★ Final Blow
Follow intermittent cracks on wall. Finish up lovely twin orange and black streaked rock through short roof. Goes straight to new abseil anchors at 23 m Start: Start between 'Hand Job' and Menage A Trois. 首攀: Darren Williams & Kylie Burford, 1995 | 20 | 55m | |||||
7 |
★★ Menage a Trois
Great climbing up the green crack 3 metres right of 'Hand Job'. 首攀: Chris Baxter, Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1976 | 16 | 23m | |||||
8 |
★ Blow by Blow
A bouldery, unprotected start leads to easier climbing up the centre of the next water-polished area. For added excitement, veer right through the bulge higher up. 首攀: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1976 | 16 R | 59m | |||||
9 |
Sore Point
Centre of next water-polished area. Bouldery start eases. 首攀: Mike Law (solo), 1981 | 18 | 40m | |||||
10 |
Rock Soff direct finish
A good way to finish Rock Soff Follow the cracks to theer end then head through the bulge where Blow by Blow head through it 首攀: adam demmert & @cathdv | 15 | 30m | |||||
11 |
Rock Soff
Climb the corner crack behind big dead tree until it eases. There are two options : either, diagonal leftwards on big holds to a nice finish and traverse off to rap anchor, or continue up corner until it ends, move right, climb short corner and step up left over bulge and continue to top (58 metres, original route) 首攀: Chris Baxter, Mike Law & Francine Gilfedder, 1976 | 13 | 58m | |||||
12 |
Grand Prix
Start 1 metre right of 'Rock Soff' and boulder up. 首攀: Mike Law (solo), 1981 | 19 | 30m | |||||
13 |
Hot Tip
Up white streak to short crack in face. Up clean rock and over wee roof. Start: Start 5 metres right of 'Rock Soff' in middle of white streak. 首攀: Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1976 | 15 | 50m | |||||
14 |
Goanna
Climb streak all the way past ledges. Start: Start about 15 metres right of 'Hot Tip' at another water streak 首攀: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1981 | 12 | 60m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
9 | Doo Voo | 35m | |||
12 | Goanna | 60m | |||
13 | Rock Soff | 58m | |||
15 | ★ | Hand Job | 23m | ||
Hot Tip | 50m | ||||
Rock Soff direct finish | 30m | ||||
16 | ★★ | Menage a Trois | 23m | ||
16 R | ★ | Blow by Blow | 59m | ||
18 | Sore Point | 40m | |||
19 | Grand Prix | 30m | |||
19 R | Hard and Fast | 55m | |||
20 | ★ | Final Blow | 55m | ||
21 R | Happy Balance | 18m | |||
25 X | Four Wheel Drive | 18m |