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线路 in Leura for selected grade

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Showing all 13 线路.

Grade 线路 线路类型 Popularity
Lockleys Pylon
12 Freezing Point

首攀: Bruce Cameron & Hayden Brotchie

传统攀登 80m
12 Piecemeal
传统攀登 110m
Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Choc Chip Chai Sector
12 R Pawn's Leap

Not quite Sublime. Starts at right end of black dirty slab where the descent track flattens out to the shale ledge. Apparently an excellent hangover climb or relaxing afternoon, back in the day.

  1. 17m (12) Up near dirt on good rock to tree.

  2. 13m (12) Easily up to bush anchor.

  3. 17m (12) Up broken rock slight left around overhang to dirt ledge. Traverse left around corner then scramble up and right to track.

传统攀登 47m, 3
12 Defaecation

Line of least resistance through a world of seething choss.

Start: Starts at chossy groove under big overhang 2m left of 'Choc Chip Chai'.

  1. 13m (12) Choss for 7m then dawdle left on small ledge and around nose into corner. Onto ledge and up to block. Old bolt belay.

  2. 10m (14) Wall to cave and old double bolt belay.

  3. 20m (14) Overhang on left and wall.

传统攀登 43m, 3
12 R Defecation Direct Start

Appallingly chossy corner that joins into the first pitch of 'Defaecation' after the traverse.

Start: Marked DDS. Starts 10m left of original route.

传统攀登 15m
Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Theory of Negativity Wall
12 The Belfry

Another major line of least resistance and most vegetation from the Rhum Dhu pioneers.

Start: Start as for 'Kedumba Gambit'.

  1. 50m (12) Climb first two pitches of 'Kedumba Gambit'. [Apparently to avoid hardcore roof corner / crack]

  2. 17m (-) Scrubby ledge left to tree.

  3. 10m (-) Yummy chimney.

  4. 20m (-) Continue up the chimney to tree.

  5. 10m (-) Continue up chimney to cave and tree.

  6. 13m (-) Right crack. "Wriggle into crack on the right crack and thrust upwards." [BA] Appears to be hideous barely navigable offwidth.

  7. 15m (-) Up.

首攀: K. Cooke, G. Burkinshaw & B. Cunningham, 1958

传统攀登 70m, 7
Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Iliad Buttress
12 Constipation Chimney

A major old-school line of little modern merit.

Start: Start at big black wall or small wall to its side.

  1. 30m (-) Up to first ledge 2m right of corner.

  2. 13m (-) Diagonally left and up to ledge.

  3. 30m (-) Traverse left to corner and up to ledge.

  4. 20m (12) Chimney to cave on left.

  5. 17m (-) Up, ignoring the scrub on the left.

  6. 13m (-) Wall on right.

  7. 13m (-) Traverse left and up chimney.

首攀: Rhum Du climbers

自由首攀: D Tanner, 1964

传统攀登 110m, 7
Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
12 Constipation Chimney Variant Start

A nice easy trad corner on the right side of the Binary Cave. Marked CCVS. There are now rap anchors added at the top of the first pitch. Be careful of some loose rock at the top.

传统攀登 19m
Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Northern Walls
12 Achilles Crack

"A good climb up a steep direct line." [JME]

Start: 300m left of landslide at crack running right to the top of a broken black wall.

  1. Wall and scrub to tree belay at base of crack.

  2. (crux) Wall to top of chimney, around overhang into crack above and tree belay.

  3. Over overlap up rotten rock to rock belay.

  4. Crack and chimney-gully to tree belay on ledge.

  5. "A small cliffline above provides interest."

首攀: P. Draffin, D. Tanner, C. Regan & K. Horn, 1963

传统攀登 130m
Mt Hay
12 Mount Hay canyon exit

Exit route used to get out of Butterbox Canyon that doubles as the access to the bottom for all of the climbing routes. One short (~12m) section of technical climbing (or an abseil when descending) that is massively overbolted.

Stiff moves for the original grade (8) especially with a pack on and canyon gear. The traverse on a sketchy ledge that leads up to the climb has also been bolted. Bolts can be used to rig a traverse line.

首攀: Tom Williams, 1977

运动攀岩 12m, 4
The Fortress
12 Grand Central Route

Verbatim description below from Bryden Allen † 's 1963 Rock Climbs of NSW.

A magnificent climb up the centre of the face of great variety. Standard: Mild Severe.

Start: There is some scrambling at the start and the climb is by no means easy to find. The diagram gives the rough area and it is a fairly obvious line of weakness. It is best approached high on the right.

  1. 20' Start in the corner with short wall on the left. Up the wall (tricky if wet) then around to the left, piton belay.

  2. 30' Up the crack ahead and out into scrub.

  3. 120' Up through scrub a walk around to the left along a sandy overhung ledge.

  4. 80' Belay (piton) below a vertical corner with a rectangular block blocking the start. Up over the block then up the corner and then the right hand face.

  5. 110' Up the magnificent wall on the right traversing to the middle. Tree belay.

  6. 20' Farther up then back into the gully.

  7. 90' Up the gully till one strikes bush. Push on and just .before one sneaks off to the left there is a bolt belay on top of yellow rock.

  8. 70' Traverse left and up till confronted by a short yellow wall, up (easier than it looks) and a bolt belay on top.

  9. 100' Walk left 100 feet, belay on yellow block.

  10. 60' Sneak up the overhang.

  11. Walk up the grass then the 10' remaining little wall.

首攀: Bryden Allen † & Ian Logan, 1962

传统攀登 210m, 11
12 Pseudechis Wall

首攀: Hayden Brotchie & Angie Bishop, 2005

传统攀登 120m
12 Rib & Slab

首攀: Kevin Westren, 1960

传统攀登 120m, 5

Showing all 13 线路.

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