线路 in Leura for selected grade

A striking line that climbs the top half of a large wall, excellent views and exposure. 60m of quality crack climbing surrounded (and interspersed) with varying degrees of choss. The climb faces south, and gets the shade all day.

Rap access: Locate 2 carrot bolts at head height in rock outcrop to your right (facing out) of small clear area. 33m rap to ledge with another 2 carrot bolts. 50m rap to shale ledge and 2 belay bolts near old chain.

Bring cams 1 x #0.4, #0.5, #0.75; 2 x #1; 3 x #2, 2 x #3, 2 x #4, Mixed wires and Hexes also useful. A minimum of 13 bolt plates.

P1 15m (17) - Climb up hideous shale on bolts to reach next shale ledge. Traverse delicately left past more shale to Carrot + #4 cam belay. 6 bolts.

P2 25m (20) - Up juggy, sandy rock to rooflet on bolts. Traverse sharp right (#3 cam) delicately to gain overhanging crack. Up this with glee to #1 + #2 belay. 3 bolts.

P3 25m (18) - Up tricky old-school thrutchy crack with fiddly gear (wires useful!) to 2-carrot belay.

P4 25m (17) - Up, truck right underneath large roof (#4 cam), then up easy crack on extremely spaced big gear on dubious rock. Belay on small ledge below mega-choss roof on gear (small-medium cams).

P5 25m (14) - Traverse hard left past 1 carrot, around "arete" and up ironstone edges past 2 more carrots and gear.

Easier direct start to Castaway. Gorgeous orange rock.

A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor.

Sensational juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall.

Unlikely well protected trad climbing. Starts 6m left of Flash Flood. Weave up blocky steep stuff to under big roof. Swing right across break and up seam crack to topout onto shale ledge and single ubolt + trad belay. Long draws useful to avoid rope drag.

Sandy horizontals jugs to get started with cool moves above the break. Right of small pillar, and just left of Whimsical.

"Cleverly found" indeed. Named "Bentrovarto" in guidebooks for many decades. However, Bryden says the name was contributed by his German climbing partner on the day, and agrees that using the correct Italian spelling is apt. A grand girdle adventure that spends as much time going across as it does going up! Originally done by starting up Colosseum Corner, it is 18 this way. But ever since the FA most people have climbed the crack 3m L of CC as the first pitch, which is 20. The rest of the route is many grades easier.

The pitches are difficult to accurately and independently describe because of the way this route has been retrobolted by the other multis on the wall. The feature is very obvious and the line easy to follow so just belay where is comfortable and makes sense. The only tricky bit of route finding is at the end when you go round the corner on the left side of the main face into the gully and then across it, but as long as you remember to do that you should find the belay okay. From here it is a bit of a no gear choose your own adventure situation to the top.

1. 20m (20) A great sustained pitch - well worth doing in it's own right to the first rap anchor. The steep thin crack eats medium wires (a triple set isn't excessive). Long thought to be a whopping sandbag at grade 18, but this was because the FA actually climbed p1 of Colosseum Corner. The FA of this pitch is unknown.

2. 27m (8) Traverse left and slightly up along the ramp the whole way, passing the RB anchors of Guillotine, Marxism, Vespasian's Wall, miscellaneous ancient carrots, bomber trad, and at least one big loose block. Eventually, belay at Kizashi's DRBs, just before the ramp becomes an almost vertical corner.

3. 13m (14) Steep leftwards corner/ramp to another bolt belay.

4. 31m (-) To ledge, traverse left to nose and up to cave and old bolt belay.

5. 16m (-) Left and around corner on ledge (crawl??) to chimney/gully. Cross the gully to ledge and single carrot and trad belay.

6. 33m (-) Back right across gully onto right wall. Bulge to ledge, then left to tree. Basically no gear, often wet, harder then you want it to be.

7. 13m (-) Back of horrible chimney gully and up, or more pleasantly up the right wall of gully. Also basically no gear, often wet, and harder than you want it to be.

Start as for Saccharine Nightmare. Can be strung together as an epic single pitch with loads of rope drag.

1. 30m, 21, 12 bolts Traverse left about 4m from first bolt, then fun climbing following U bolts up and left to join vague arete at approx 20m. Continue up arete (bolts on right side) to DBB.

2. 30m, 17, 8 bolts . Clip first bolt from belay, then follow arete to rejoin Saccharine Nightmare toward end of 2nd pitch.

Continue to top on Saccharine Nightmare, or rap off (two ropes required). Be careful of falling into trees down low, particularly for seconds.

Up to roof at slight left-facing corner, grab jug at lip, clip FH and crank (crux) up 2.5m to next FH. Charge on up with cams in slots to a belay ledge. Great pro, solid holds and fantastic exposure. Lower off rings or up 7m trending left to juggy bulge and tree. Walk off right to top of 'Sweet Dreams'.

Up to corner, reach out and clip FH. Gather your guts and grit your teeth as you pull up and right onto face to next FH (crux). Up on easier ground and nice sharp edges past another FH. Chuck some cams in slots, straight up to DRBB.

Start: Starts 3m left of Dreams are Free.

Nice pumping up a long wall. Walk about 5 minutes (300m) left of Whymper. After you drop down into a 3rd red shale cave, the route starts 30m further on, at the base of an undercut buttress, marked by a cairn. If you reach a wet gully you've gone 40m too far (This may be Garbage Gully).

1. 35m 19 Either hard start or step off tree then up easing wall. A few loose holds here, take helmets!

2. 30m 18 Up steep orange wall and right to slab. Walk to belay on wall right of cave. 3 rings so you can space yourselves.

3. 25m 20 Up thin slab and roof.

4. 10m 10 Up dirty slab, left to ledge, belay here so the secondcan see the leader on the next pitch

5. 10m 17 one move tricky wall.

Walk-off: Walk away from the cliff and slightly left (ENE) to a small tree 15m back from the cliff edge with a white tag. Veer right to next tag then up till you cross a walking track. Turn right and 5 minutes walk takes you past the top of Sweet Dreams and back to the carpark.

Landmark orange off-width corner in centre of crag. Stem baby stem (no thrutching required). Protected by a heady mix of bolts and trad. Bring cams between #0.25 Camalot to the biggest you can find, and some slings. Save a 0.75 green Camalot for the exciting very last move over the rooflet. Double rap rings at top - lowering off is possible. This route was originally climbed using homemade tubes in the heady days of the 70s. The direct finish over the rooflet was done in 2014.