线路 in Leura for selected grade

A great thin, mostly slabby pitch in its own right, which would probably be popular at any other crag... But surrounded by the elite climbs of the Sublime Point East face, this is merely a 2 star route.

Start from the Castaway belay. Head slightly right and up (crossing Subliminal P1). Continue up via very thin technical moves which get progressively harder all the way to the belay.

If climbing out via Castaway, its possible to head directly right from the belay for 7m (with exhilarating climbing) past 2 additional bolts to join the belay at the top of Castaway P1.

Trust nothing but your feet. First three bolts of Wrath of Froth, then swing onto the left side of the arete and climb the super sweet orange face. It weaves around a bit - a few long draws will help with rope drag, especially on bolt 3 (or alternatively it is easy to unclip once you have clipped bolt 4). Either lower-off and clean from high anchor and climb one of the other routes to exit, or do an annoying hanging belay and traverse right onto Wrath of Froth pitch 2 about halfway up. 15ish quickdraws.

Furthest right of the bolted routes. Josh Dobson never freed this route and it has had a faded tag hanging off it for years. Nice easy climbing up to rooflet, hard crimps over this (appears to be chipped?) then dirty mossy slab to finish. Currently its so mossy you can't make the anchor so lower off the last ring. Grade of 25 is given up to this no moss high point!

Upgraded in the 2019 guidebook. 5m left of MF, just left of small tree leaning against cliff. Steep juggy start up to big roof. Monkey across imposing roof flake then up super headwall.

Popular steep climbing. Climb up juggy cracks and flakes to the biggest roof at Binary Cave. Crank over this with a bouldery lip move then up great orange headwall. Two long draws in the roof help reduce rope drag.

As good as the other routes here. Up the juggy wall right of Thumbs Up crack to large shale ledge under roof. Clip roof bolt then hand traverse shale ledge left to join into Thumbs Up's roof crack section. Up crack for a move then hand traverse back right above dramatic roof then up great sustained orange wall.

Has a reputation for being tough for the grade and having a tricky pocket sequence. Starts just left of Thumbs Up. Boulder though a couple of roofs to an easy head wall.

Go go stop. The best of the harder routes at the Binary Cave Steep bouldery start trending right to rooflet then straight up the gorgeous orange wall on small sloping holds to an easier finish.

2 pitches. An easy first pitch, and a lovely hard pitch hidden up on the orange wall hanging above. Start 5 metres left of the mini-totem pole pillar.

1. 20m (17) Easy, peasy. A mix of FHs and ringbolts. You can lower off the big staple at the top of the wall, or much better, climb up to the ledge and do the second pitch. A rap anchor is 5m to the L, looking in, at the top of P2 of Hells Bells.

2. 22m (25) Steep with a low crux, then nice moves to the top.

A surprisingly mellow undertaking despite the roofiness, with a funky gnarly move to gain the lip. Probably sub-24 but for the last move.

The secondmost route from the right, starting at a single bolt anchor, 5m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start. Mantle to ledge, then punch right to flake and up to rest. Then, truck right through roofiness, up to mushroom-jug, and onwards to ultimate finale.

Ideally, clip the anchor from the sloper jugs on the lip, but if they're wet, just do whatever works for you. Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean.

The left hand finish to Armistice Direct via an outrageous foot free hand-traverse along a series of incut holds across a blank orange shield. Finish with hands over the lip. Lower off large single U-bolt or backjump.

Ewbank's original aid line turns out to be an absolute cracker of a free route. A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbank's) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it, Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 8m left of Guillotine.

1. 25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Ben Trovato wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Ignore the manky chain at 20m and continue another 5m to a new anchor.

2. 8m (14) Continue up and left on easy grey ground past another bolt to cosy foot ledge and DRB. (35m to ground). You can get here more easily via Guillotine p1 if you prefer.

3. 20m (24) Step right to the flake/corner left of the guano, then take the orange streak above the guano. Currently finishes after about 20m, just below an overlap, 3m above a jug rail. This pitch is really good, on fantastic orange rock, tho you need to lower off a single ring. A proper anchor will hopefully appear some day.

The bolted continuation for another 15-20m to DRB near the top is open, help yourself. Will be 27+, and is increasingly let down by the usual deteriorating rock quality up there.

Roughly translates as "something great is coming". Thin seam crack that gets harder the higher you go. Never fear, there are no jams - it's all face moves and chicken wing gastons. Starts on the right edge of small chossy cavelet in the middle of Ben Trovato Wall. Finishes at first set of double U bolts 3/4 of the way up the wall (extension is 29).

The epic 5 bolt extension past the lower anchor to finish up Sadomastication for last 2m. A great mix of crimps and sidepulls with an ever increasing pump to the very end. Hard 25 or easy 26.

One of the most obvious 'lines' on this wall and the first route bolted by Monty in the Ben Trovato Renaissance period. Three sustained pitches up the guts of the left side of the wall with comfy belay ledges and phat ringbolts. Pitch 1 can be done alone as a great single pitch 23 if you want to lower off.

1. 30m (23) Straight up to the base of the right facing and left leading big flake. Follow this to final tricky layback finish (this final flake is sounding very hollow, take care (or fix it)). Best to extend bolts on the right of the flake (60cm+ draws), so that your rope isn't pulled in over the sharp-ish edge of the flake. If you are only doing the first pitch use the lower offs before the ledge. Otherwise, continue up to the giant staple.

2. 25m (25) Balancy start then blast straight up the gorgeous orange wall above with final death by crimp section. Belay on ledge at double rings.

3. 30m (24) Pumpy conclusion up the steep wall and corner above with a baffling reachy thin section down low. Either lower off the double rings just below the top or dirty mantle out to belay from a tree.

Sustained thin face left of the Microdermabrasia flake with a left trend. At about 15m it meets the Exile pitch 2 traverse. From here go up via Exile for a couple of moves then take the left trending ringbolts finishing at double double lower-off (this is not a typo!). A more logical (and easier) finish is via Exile.

Steep exposed climbing. Starts off far left end of ledge - about 5m left of Cloudstreet. Across jugs to reach corner, up this for a few moves then over bulge and face left of arete. Finish up exposed orange face above with lots of reachy horizontal pulls