★★★ Corner Route 18

60m Fixed line rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim left not right to ledge with U bolts 2m above water. Drag traverse rope across 15m gap and setup tyrolean or swim.

Note 60m fixed line will initially require 10m extension with tag line to span diagonally when being dragged up from start of first pitch.

Loose rock is a possibility on all pitches, hauling of spare ropes and packs is recommended.

1. (18) 30m Steely up corner crack which thins to fingers. Traverse right under roof and out onto finger flakes on face then up and traverse back left to sloping belay ledge with fixed wire. Good sustained pitch.

2. (17) 30m Up corner crack with bridging and hand jamming of various widths. Continue to loose vegetated belay ledge at top with slings around boulder. Good pitch with some small rest ledges.

3. (15) 25m Up wide crack and through awkward chimney sqeeze being careful not to dislodge loose rock. If climbing in single pair then leader will need to trail tyrolean rope up through chimney and flick around arête with help of second otherwise it will get stuck on arête. Continue up cracks and onto belay ledge being mindful of loose rock when choosing anchor pro.

4. (15) 20m Up sunny face veering a little left at the top to another rusty anchor then scramble to the real summit.

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (tasmanpeninsula@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn