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Paparazzi Cliff

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总结

3 distinct cliffs below the Tiger Face with a plethora of routes in a small area.

描述

Bubbly, sharp pockets of Rhyolite. Long single pitch routes (53m). Interesting face climbing. Well bolted, but 4 trad routes do exist here.

Routes are arranged L to R.

准入问题 取自Mt Maroon

Access from the carpark at Cotswold Rd. to the National Park is across gazetted private land - from the sluice gate:

walk up roughly 400m to the National Parks sign:

This is the start of the National Park. Visitors are urged to stay on the path or use established tracks, rather than blazing a new trail.

前往

Thru the sluice gate & up the hill, turn right at the grassy paddock and follow the fire track:

follow this around till you arrive at this paddock:

start angling up to a steep fire track & follow this till it runs into another fire track, turn right & follow this across several shallow gullies till you arrive at a deep gully with wood steps:

up the steep slope (Heartbreak Ridge) on the other side (110m elevation gain) & follow the ridge up to the Insignificant Cliff:

From here, follow the cliff line right & upwards up a series of slopes till you arrive at the Paparazzi & Graveyard Ridge turn-off:

Approximately 1.5hrs access time.

行为准则 取自Mt Maroon

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

历史

历史时间线表

First developed in 2004 by Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont. Robert Staszewski & Terry Svingen established two trad lines here in 2005. Mark Gamble & Terry established a trad line in 2006. Albert Shaw & Peter Beams another trad line in 2015. Herb & John have continued to add to & develop the crag from the original 7 routes.

标签

部分内容经许可发布自: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

线路

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Grade 线路

警示 固定装置: Rusted Gear

自由首攀: John Du Bont & Herb Brandmeier

自由首攀: John Du Bont & Herb Brandmeier

Twin cracks starting 2m right of 'Spring' in front of small Ironbark. Committing and fun start, take small cams and nuts. Take left line up to ledge, past tree half way and continue on to fault line above to top.

自由首攀: Albert Shaw & Peter Beams, 21 9月 2015

自由首攀: John Du Bont & Herb Brandmeier

Best of the climbs in this top section

自由首攀: John Du Bont & Herb Brandmeier

This uninspiring line ascends the wide corner left of 1st cave. Find the easy way up to large ledge below corner. Up past two large chockstones and into gully. Scramble up rightwards to top.

自由首攀: Herb Brandmeier & John DeBont, 2004

First cab of the rank. Starts just left of the big cave.

自由首攀: Steffen Bollmann & Herb, 15 10月 2016

Starts just below & left of the first (big) cave. Up from belay ledge, out left of cave, up, then right (crux) over lip of cave on thin holds, passing 2 FHs, then trend left, up to anchors. (all carrots have been replaced by FHs).

自由首攀: John De Bont & Joan Vickers, 2004

Start below main overhang of cave, slightly RHS. Up easy territory to lip of cave, out passing 2 FHs, surmount overhang, then easy territory to top anchors.

2018 OCTOBER - ANCHORS ARE STILL MISSING.

(Plans are afoot to re-establish these soon.)

首攀: Herb Brandmeier & Steven Waite, 2004

Up right side edge of big cave.

自由首攀: Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont

Up the obvious water runnel 2m right of Smile, 2m left of Brunhilde. Up gully at top, then out right. Belay from tree. Good gear all the way.

首攀: Mark Gamble, Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2006

Next right of Adagio.

自由首攀: John Du Bont & Herb Brandmeier

Right next to Prancing Puntz. Looks imposing, but its not that hard.

自由首攀: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers

Starts just left of the second cave, in front of the twin gums. An old classic & very popular. Easily confused with Luftwaffel p1. Stick to the bolts on the left. Above the cave, you can step out left for a welcome rest. Can be lead on trad, bar 2 bolts.

首攀: John De Bont & Joan Vickers, 2004

Up left to inside of cave. Same rap chain as Maltesers.

自由首攀: John & Joan

Starts from the bottom, up right bypass the cave.

In the cave above are some acrobatic moves at the start of the second pitch. Easy finish up the face to the top. Great photo opportunity. Can be done from the bottom of the cave (Alison's Variant) or the ledge above depending on your vertical disadvantage. This cave also serves as a rap station for a single 50m rope.

自由首攀: Herb Brandmeier & Riccarda

Starts just right of 2nd cave. Crux is near the start, then easy face climbing. Belay + rap from chains on Have A Minty.

首攀: John De Bont & Joan Vickers, 2004

Starts just right of Luftwaffel. Similar to Luftwaffel. Crux is the bottom half then nice and cruisy, skirting lhs of cave.

首攀: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2004

警示 动植物: Wasp Nests

Starts below the third cave. Half-way up it crosses the Path of Lichen and goes on up past the right side of the cave

自由首攀: Alison & Cathy

The sinuous crack/groove right of the 3rd cave, which steepens notably after 30m. Great climbing despite vegetated appearance.

自由首攀: Rob Staszewski & Terry Svingen, 2004

Starts 5m right of ATPOL. Arguably the hardest climb on the cliff. It contains an aid move up at the blanc headwall, but it can be climbed by moving right and up the corner.

自由首攀: Steve Waite & Alison

The next sinuous crack/groove that curves distinctively around the smaller 4th cave. Not the greatest looking climb, but some hidden pleasures.

自由首攀: Robert Staszewski & Terry Svingen, 2004

Starts at prominent blunt arete

首攀: John & Herb

首攀: Herb & John

Starts right 15m up hill at the big pointy flake of rock leaning against the wall, which aids the vertically challenged

自由首攀: Herb & John

Starts at the same pointy flake as PB

自由首攀: John & Herb

首攀: Herb & John

A short chimney which then turns into a sustained, fingery face climb.

自由首攀: John De Bont & Herb Brandmeier

Shares the start of FML before branching right after the third bolt.

首攀: Oliver Gross, Jonas Schnider & Steffen Bollman

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

日期: 2021

国际书号: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

作者: Simon Carter

日期: 2018

国际书号: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

附近的住宿 more 隐藏

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