条目 in Forestville

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Big, orange, chalky wave of Sandstone. The obvious main wall is about 30m long.

This is the main section of the crag where you will find the majority of the problems. There a few other problems if you keep walking but none as good as what you can find here.

The first large shield feature when entering the cave.

Traverse the low ledge rightwards. Move up via a two finger pocket. Not recommended. Please don't do this problem as the holds are getting too polished on Penis Cling (or if you do, keep your feet off Penis Cling). Bill Smith is a much better warmup.

Sit start rail left of Penis Cling side pull. Use sloper with right hand and finish out left.

Just left of Penis Cling start on the juggy ledge and continue up the slopey arete.

Sit start on low rail and continue up the slopey arete finishing on a high jug.

L1, R2, L3, R4, M4. A classic two move wonder. Knock off a grade or 2 for using your heel. Has been done going straight up and not using L3. Reportedly done static by Fred Nicole at V10'ish.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Sit start with left hand on the good undercling in the rooflet and right hand in the round pocket. Move to the left side-pull then powerful to the jug rail on the top of the shield.

Phillip Booth

Start as for Penis Cling but continue from the jug and finish 4m up on the obvious ramp.

Same as Penis Cling, but starting with right hand on the undercling to the right of the left undercling.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Peter

Start on the finish jug rail for Penis Cling. Traverse right until Break to Break. 1 move up to jug and jump right to span the huge bulge. Keep traversing right up high and drop down onto the finish jug of Silent Bob. Finish up For Sissies.

If done statically through the bulge, grade drops to V6.

Harley B

Named for the people who insist that this be a separate climb from the original because it isn’t a sit start. Exactly the same as Penis Cling, just don’t sit to start. Instead start with your left on the far foot and pull on awkwardly, crossed under with your left hand, and completely locked on your right shoulder.

Sit start with left hand on the hueco pinch and right hand underclinging, then power your way up the right hand side of the Penis Cling shield. Fun.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Phillip Booth

Probably impossible to repeat as LeBreton's exact and undoubtedly desperate sequence been lost into obscurity. It's known to be underclinged all the way to the top using the hardest method known to man and is said to be a Crag Classic.

After the finish of SNC, link into Zac's Highball.

Start up just right of 'Summer Night City' and move right through a series of two finger pockets before finishing at an obvious jug above 'The House With No Steps' with a fern stuck in it.

From the jug in the break right of SNC finish up to the slot.

Basically the sit start for 'Break to Break'.

Sit start with left hand on good side pull and right hand on the polished edge. Go up and finish as for 'Break to Break' in the slot.

Start on the far left rail and traverse all the way to the chin-up bar. Finishing with both hands matched.

Sit Start on the polished jugs on the lip and move up and slightly right to finish matched in the break.

Phillip Booth

M1, L2, R3, L4, M4

Kneebar/heel helps.

M4, R5, L6, L7 'Campus' problem. Hold the finish for a few seconds for the tick.

All the way to the top jug.

Link rigid fist into HUOY by traversing along the ledge.

Start as for rigid fist and link directly up into HUOY.

L0, R3, L4, R5, M5

Hard press move made slightly easier by starting using small foothold high and left the start hold. Just keep reaching. Looks unfeasible but works.

Start matched on the sidepull, make a hard move right into the start position of Bowels. Was thought to be the actual start of Bowels.

Bowels of the Devil finishing up For Sissies. Probably where BotD should have finished.

Start up Bowels of the Devil, finishing up The Solution of 1993.

Same handholds as for Bowels of the Devil, but starting with a high right toehook. No dynamic movements or pads to cheat the start, just strict flexibility. Hard to grade.

Stretch finishing up For Sissies. No pads to cheat the start.

Start on the big hold. Often wet.

Dylan Soin

M1, R2, L3, M3, R4, L5, M5

'Fantastic' problem. Watch that final swing. Unfortunately the second hold (R2)is often wet. Can and has been extended.

Silent Bob into High Up Over Yonder.

Start with one hand on the round blob in roof 1.5m back from jug and one hand on the jug. Smear hard and climb into Silent Bob.

Start as for Silent Bob Low, and climb directly out via the micro crimp, skipping the wet rail from Silent Bob. Once on the soccer ball sloper after the lip go directly to the jug. The other holds further right on the ledge are out.

Traverse leftwards from the sloper next to the chin up bar and finish in the break above the 'Bowels Of The Devil' layaway. Stay below the good holds.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Up Not for Sissies via the undercling. Easy if you’re tall, nails if you’re not.

Dyno - Either double or one handed. From the chin up bar (9) hurl yourself to the obvious flat hold 7ft up. Get a good spot and watch the landing zone. The undercling is out.

No-foot. From a good slopey hold to the jug.

Same as for 'Blame 1' but using the left hand in the pocket.

Same as for 'Blame 2' except that the right hand is in the pocket instead of the left.

Same as the 'Blame' trio but you start one hold lower matched on the undercling and can you use your feet.

M6, R7, M7, R8, L9, M9.

Phillip Booth

Start on the pull-up jug and reverse The Problem of 1993. Once you reach the Dentalectomy holds, move up to the top of the seam (on the holds that are off for Dentalectomy) and traverse through the last 2 metres, finishing on the hold above the Dentalectomy slopers and start hold.

From the slopey wave feature to the small arete feature.

Start as for Dentalectomy and traverse left on pinches and slopers to finish on the chin up bar.

Travis B.

Dylan Soin

As for 'Dentalectomy' but traverse left across the whole sloper rail and finish at the next jug.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Phillip Booth

M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L4, R5, M5. A classic. Harder for shorties.

Worthwhile subtle variations at similar grade include (i) M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L5, M5, and (ii) M1, L2, M2, L3, then LH to jug 50cm right of 5, and match.

Phillip Booth

One move wonder Start on dentalectomy undercling and dyno abound bulge to finish hold of solution of 1993

Start as for WAIDH but go straight up to jug.

Sit start to bubbles on low slopers.

Same as for WAIDH but finishing on higher rail.

Sit start on slopers low down.

From the pocket, traverse right for a somewhat fun (but short) warm up.

Sit Start low down on slopers.

Start as for Bubbles Sit Start and traverse to the right along the slopers to finish on last hold of Bill Smith.

From the Start jug of WAIDH, drop down onto the slopers and traverse right to the start holds of JOF. Reach up to the slopey pinch and then to the highest obvious finish hold directly above that. Alternatively, finish up JOF, but without an extra gold star for your refrigerator.

Up the slopey features, past the two finger pocket to finish above the warm up start holds. Plenty of eliminates.

Start on the juggy pocket, traverse across finishing on the starting hold of ‘What Am I Doing Here’

From a jug down low, go right and up the short arete.

Same as for 'Gladheateher' but skip the arete and dyno instead.

Horizontal roof section with some classic easier problems and the must-do Mr. Smiley. However this section suffers some of the heaviest seepage at the crag and many of the holds here will obviously be compromised when wet and for some time after. Please stay off all holds which are or have recently been wet.

1,2,7,3,4. Start on the low jug at the bottom of the little arete, head right through the underclings and into 'Bill Smith'.

Phillip Booth

1,2,3,4 A variant of 'Jerk Off'. From the underclings, go directly to 'Bill Smith' second to last hold. Easier for the tall.

Phillip Booth

Start on the undercling at shoulder height and make a big move to the flat edge above.

2, 7 (on previous topo)

Phillip Booth

M5, R6, M6, R7, L3, R4, M4

Nice, juggy warm up.

Phillip Booth

Start as for 'Bill Smith' but from the huge jug (7) Dyno rightwards to the hold left of Mr Smiley's finish (with the little fern poking out)

mattias braach-maksvytis

From the elliptical hold in the back of the roof, move left into and finish up 'Bill Smith'.

Phillip Booth

Start on same hold as 'Blinky Bill', move straight out to smaller slot and then left into the giant slot and finish as for 'Bill Smith'. M8 9 7 3 M4

Start on Elliptical jug of Blinky Bill, move directly out to the slot jug, grab any pocket and go big to the letterbox jug of Mr Smiley to finish as for Mr Smiley. Never done a move quite like this outside so hard to grade. Could be harder?

Start as for 'Bill Smith', reverse 'Blinky Bill', make a hard move from the start of Blinky Bill to the large slot in the roof, then move back left into the end of Bill Smith.

Link Jerk Off into Short Circuit. A warm up pumper for the longer link ups.

Link Bill Smith into Mr Smiley then climb up I've Got My Tie On

Start up Bill Smith, into Mr Smiley, into Foam and finish up Vitamin C or Vitamin X.

Start up Bill Smith and finish up Mr Smiley

M1, R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6 Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold. A classic although the start holds are often wet.

Campus Mr Smiley

Climb Mr Smiley across into Vitamin C or Vitamin X.

The first of the orange scooped out sections right of the Mr. Smiley roof.

Start in the couple of pockets in the roof, explode out for the slope lip, up the prow and then continue on to finish - one of Sissy's highest problems. Classic!

Start as for Foam, and from slopey lip move left into Mr Smiley and then back right to the jug.

Link 'Mr Smiley' into Foam - the big jug is out (use 3 finger pocket next to it).

Phillip Booth

M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4, R5, M5

Good problem! Hold that last swing.

As for Vitamin C but go RH to the triangle instead of matching the high rail. No heels.

Same as Vitamin C, but eliminate hold 3.

Just like 'Hands Off My Detonator' except that you start with a heel hook over left.

L6, R7, R8, L9, R10, L4, R5, M5

Classic Sissy toughie. Wait for a cold day. Many ways of doing it.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Start from the crimpy underclings (as for 'Spooged') and link into 'Hands Off My Detonator'

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Hands Off My Detonator. Campussing. 2 known ascents. Sharik Walker 2nd ascent.

Start Redetonated, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Low start to Hands Off My Detonator.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

M11, L12, L10, R4, L13, M13 Another classic. Everyone has their own favourite beta, but good footwork is the key. (Becomes 'Mavis' V8 if both pinches are held before gaining edge 10- 'Contrived' and hard)

The same as 'Travis' except both slopey pinches must be held before gaining the edge. Contrived but good.

Phillip Booth

Sit start to Travis starting from a matched crimpy undercling under the roof (same as for 'Re-Detonated').

Travis B.

Climb the start of 'Re-Detonated' finishing up 'Foam'.

Phillip Booth

Link the start of Spooged Into Vitamin C