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Bacchus Sector

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准入问题 取自Top Cliff

Officially closed 2012-2014 for rebuilding the stairs. Reopened to climbers Dec 2014.

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部分内容经许可发布自: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU) © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

线路

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Grade 线路

首攀: John Kenny & Mark Witham, 1988

首攀: Mike Ashton & Geoff Lloyd, 1980

首攀: Phil Weston & Stuart McLeod, 1976

首攀: Damian Gray & Mark Ealing, 1990

首攀: Paul Gray (solo), 1988

Start: Climb the corner to a peg at 10 metres. Step right just above this to access a big ledge. Carry on directly.

首攀: Mike Ball & Alan Coghlan, 1972

Virtually a separate route to 'Sauterne'.

Start: Climb directly up the nose to the right of 'Sauterne'.

首攀: Colin Reece & Peter Klopotowski, 1976

Start: Continue directly through the bulge above the pin.

首攀: Colin Greig & Paul Francis, 1989

Pleasant climbing up a thin off-vertical wall. 'Sauterne' and 'Sauterne Direct Start' are off limits. This has been graded between 17-20 depending on how much is avoided! Thin on protection down low.

Start: The wall between 'Sauterne' and its Direct Start avoiding both.

首攀: Dave Atkins (TR), 1982

自由首攀: Mark Witham, 1986

首攀: George Adams & Colin Magor, 1972

The direct start to Scotch Missed's arete, via a tiny corner. SM's bolt was clipped on the FLA.

首攀: Paul Gray, Mark Witham & Paul Badenoch, 18 6月 2022

A tentative move before clipping the carrot bolt.

Start: Start 1.5 left of Ouzo and head up the corner below the roof. Reach over this to clip a carrot bolt. Pull up left onto the arete (bypassing the next roof) and follow this.

首攀: Mike Ashton (TR), 1980

自由首攀: Nick Neagle (prior to the bolt), 1986

Scotch Missed to the carrot bolt then continue directly through the second roof and finish up the centre of the wall.

首攀: Peter Cooper & David Paull, 1987

As for HIAR except don't grab the jug above the carrot bolt!

首攀: Alan McCulloch & Paul Francis, 1987

首攀: Mark Witham & Paul Francis, 1988

Despite conspiracy theorist touts that there are incredible runouts the pro is solid in the very small wire range. Swing past Rundle Street and pick up some brass offsets / RP’s then blast up the corner placing fine gear as the face steepens, move left over the bulge before finding another fine wire. Bomber gear ahead, move up and into the crack in the right wall before tackling the summit block head on. Steal a star off Bacchus.

首攀: Colin Reece (TR), 1972

自由首攀: Mike Broadbent, 1978

Link up Ouzo to Sticklebrickette. Start on Ouzo stepping right under the bolt on Absolute Alcohol. Take the hanging blade of AA RHV. Continue across Bacchus and onto the Sticklebrickette ledge. Up the crack, (or exit on any of the the former lines).

Start: Climb the right side of the arete right of Ouzo. Clip the old peg at 8m. Balancy move up left through corner, to a bolt. Follow crack then step right to final arête.

首攀: Colin Reece, 1976

Start up Ouzo and head for the Balancy corner with the bolt.

首攀: Mark Witham & Jeff Smith, 1985

As for 'Absolute Alcohol', but escape right to the hanging blade. Stay right and head straight up

首攀: Mark Witham & Jeff Smith, 1986

This is a must, nice bridging on good rock.

Start: The main corner below the sheoak tree.

首攀: Martin Bell & Alan Coghlan, 1972

A nice climb with the bolt at the crux.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bacchus'. Move around right from the initial undercling. Head up to the bolt over the small roof and follow the crack.

首攀: Mark Witham, 1986

首攀: Stuart Williams (TR), 1988

自由首攀: Nick Neagle, 1989

首攀: Mark Witham, 1986

首攀: climb boulder problem, up slab, then through three roofs without using bridging or arete - contrived bullocks - probably undergraded by me & sorry

Start: 1 metre right of 'Bacchus'. Climb boulder problem to slab. Move up to the roof and clip a carrot bolt before stepping boldly out to your right into the bottomless corner. Work your way directly up.

首攀: Mike Broadbent & Simon Wooley, 1980

首攀: Mark Witham, Jenny Ashton & Mike Ashton, 1989

首攀: Mark Witham, 1988

首攀: Jeff Smith (TR), 1986

自由首攀: David Ellis, 1998

Start: Start left of Sandpiper's initial corner and head to the thin seam just right of the arete above. Climb the wall just right of this to reach a shallow niche. Undercling the block above and carry on up the overhanging seam.

首攀: Mark Witham (TR), 1984

自由首攀: Sandy Hancock, 1987

Climb the arête with the triangular roof, just right of Sandpiper. Cross that route, and climb the red wall right of Hard People's sentry box.

首攀: Paul Gray & Mark Witham, 1987

Sandpiper to the ledge, then L and up Hard People.

首攀: Mike Broadbent & Gary Scott

首攀: Colin Magor & K Chapman, 1972

首攀: M Witham, Jeff Smith & Robert Moog, 1989

首攀: Mike Broadbent & Gary Scott, 1978

首攀: Mike Ashton & Catherine Pye, 1980

首攀: Mike Ashton & Catherine Pye, 1980

首攀: Mike Ashton & Catherine Pye, 1980

Start just R of Pernod and head way L to finish up Sticklebrickette's crack.

首攀: Jones & Ashton, 1980

The obvious line through the overhang. Step up and over then trend left before continuing up.

首攀: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, Finius & Helen Pope, 1989

Start as for Cherry B. From under the overhang escape across the clever line to the right. Thin moves on flat low angled rock are excellent at the grade. Straight up.

首攀: Nick Neagle & Paul Gray, 1987

首攀: Martin Bell & Ed Wightman, 1972

首攀: Stuart Simmonds & Russell Nash, 1989

首攀: Andrew Rattray & Stuart Simmonds, 1989

The following couple of routes used to be only 7m high, but the rap tree disappeared so now you can enjoy the choss above.

A lovely climb with the crux in the first 2 moves. Start as for the nips are getting smaller. Up to the horizontal at about 2.5m for good cam placement. Now step left to arete and straight up. Continue up arete to an open book corner. Place good runner in the corner and step left onto arete. Continue up arete to the top.

首攀: Mark Witham, paul gray & Paul Badenoch, 1 10月 2023

首攀: Nick Neagle & Grant Tode, 1986

A short pleasant route using some delicate bridging. Hard to protect.

首攀: Paul Francis, Nick Neagle & Mark Witham, 1986

首攀: Paul Francis & Nick Neagle, 1986

首攀: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987

首攀: Mark Witham & Russell Nash, 1989

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