★★ Star Fucker 20

Takes the left side of the flake, sharing the off-width finish.

Although these days there are a number of excellent sport climbs, the original ascentionists were staunchly traditional, having this to say:

"We, as discoverers and first ascensionists, have not and will not tolerate the use of bolts, pegs, shady aid or chalk. Attempt to use any of these and be prepared to answer to us. We have respected the natural state of the area and expect that you will also."