South Face 所有阿式攀登 16 线路 在 片区中

The line of first ascent of the South Face which sounds like it was a bit of an epic! Parallels the South West Ridge via a series of snow ramps and rock steps. After crossing the prominent snow arete, the line traverses right until a number of exit gullies are reached, all at a similar grade. NZ Grade IV, 4.

Start as for Perspiring. Climb through the lower rock band, follow gully and then gradually traverse left until under obvious notch. Head up through some ice/mixed pitches and exit at the obvious notch at the coxcomb. 12 x 60m pitches plus four pitches along the Coxcomb ridge. Cruxes pitch 1 WI3 & M3, Pitch 3 WI3+ & M4, Pitch 10 WI3+ & M3, Pitch 12 M4 8-12 ice screws, single set of cams 0 - 2, single set of wires 1 - 7, 8-12 draws. NZ Grade IV, 5+

A deep-winter linkup from the Whiston-Hyslop start to a new finish between Shooting Star and Thule. FA involved descent down the NW/Ramp via the Coxcomb. Generally WI2/3 climbing (in condition) other than the beautiful 60m crux pitch - a WI3 hose, with three vertical mixed steps at WI4+ / M5. Route is defined by the large chockstone visible in the middle of the flow, which breaks the second rock band - the start of the crux pitch moves around this to the right - belaying underneath is recommended for overhead on the crux. FA gear: Nuts (8 - 13), Cams & Tricams (x6 to #2), Screws (x12), 2-3 Blades. 15 - 18hrs on FA. NZ Grade IV, 5+

A short 6th pitch can be avoided if you begin belaying above the schrund. Pick your way up and along a right leaning shallow groove with mixed moves on the first pitch, until you can move up and left to gain a consistent ice flow in the second. Near vertical sections through the rest of the climb easing on the final pitch and trending right to gain the ridge. Gear: 10 x ice screws. Bring mainly shorter screws as this route is likely to have thinner ice than its neighbours. NZ Grade IV, 5