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the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die

the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die

en simultaneo

Incredible route!

Wild route! Onsighted it all minus one foot pop seconding the last pitch. Was a bit wet which made it harder.

Lovely, long.

Flake work and delicate feet. Moves either side of the line in thought-provoking, committing ways. It's a 5.10b on Mountain Project - maybe moreso due to retro-bolting in 2018 (sounds a bit sketch prior to then). I would go with 5.10c.

And, it'll throw you if you aren't techy or used to the style. My friend sat a lot on it after working two harder climbs earlier in the day.

An absolutely joy, another 5.10 of the day I would come back and do again 👌

The line for the grade here!! What a freaking climb 😘👌, probably sandbagged for QLD standards 😅

Deliciously long. The view at the top is a straight out of LOTR.

Varied - crack at the start, a stemmy corner with a bulge/rooflet to work around, delicate pockets, 2 hands-free rests and a roof that made me sit on gear until I could see the Savior.Pocket that takes you to sweets jugs for the anchor.

So bummed I was one move from the onsight.

(Also, the name on Mountain Project is Boob Loob)

Holy Stemming Batman! Was not ready for this as my starter for the day! Felt run out and was not my style, so for me, harder than 5.8. had to have a sit & think. For what I have climbed in the area, it is unique.

I stayed left at the top whereas there are some hectic off width photos on the RHS on Mountain Project.

Delicate with some thin flake work. I think this would get a 19/20 grade in Ewbanks. Stacked Deck (5.10b, felt easier than this).

Really enjoyed it.

Has been retro bolted - I want to say 5 draws now - a few on this wall are now much better bolter with RB's

Lovely huecos (buckets) greet you at the start with some tech-y middle around a small bulge. Lovely

Delicate slab and small hand hold and tiny feet. Run-out so a fall would equal a parmesan cheese grater (which is what keeps it at 5.9 IMHO).

Lots of people bagged it on Mountain Project; and, I didn't hate it. It would have to be your style though. Wouldn't give it the 2 stars.

Run-out compared to Dirty Sally, shorter. Had some nice techy areas, the run-out probably making it the grade versus the length/moves. Sharper rock than Dirty Sally, and a bit of a let down after the beauty of the route (Dirty Sally) that was to the right

Tried this after mis-reading Mountain Project & The Crag. Was looking for Stacked Deck (the next one to the left) Very boulder-y, spanny start. Bailed at the first clip. Matt went up it after - it was basically watching him dog up a slabby, crimpy hug-fest fridge.

Frankly, unless you like to hate yourself to the 6th layer of Hell, I would avoid this one, there are so many other lovely 5.10's and 5.11's within 5-10minutes walk.

First crux is the dead point/dyno which is enormous. Second crux is right after that pulling up into the slab. I thought both were pretty damn fun

2nd go

Thought-inducing pocket-fest. Was told by some locals it’s a classic. I can see why

Modesto