攀登 in 美国

the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die

the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die

Thought-inducing pocket-fest. Was told by some locals it’s a classic. I can see why

Lovely line - long for area and varied. Rooflet took some thinking. Distance between draws compared to the other ones previously made it feel more committing than what it probably was. I kept right at the top, the others went more direct from last bolt to anchor

Slabby-er than worded, but a pleasant welcome to Wild Iris 👌

5.10c on Mountain Project - could be a 5.10d by Aussie standards/style. I really like the layback start but it caught me in the wrong direction about halfway up. Fine edges for feet/foot jam if you know how to use them, otherwise it’s ruthless. Thin, middle but with rests. Top has lovely jugs if you know where to fine them. Demands commitment throughout. Great climb

Lovely flake start onto slab. A pleasant little ease in

J and I were the only ones stupid enough to crag here in the sun during a heatwave so we had the crag to ourselves. That was until J was halfway up the finger crack and a shirtless fella stumbled out of the trees asking what the climbs here were. Proceeded to lay on a rock beside my belay spot, staring into the sun like a lizard, he introduced himself as Hans - asked me where I was from, what the Aussie climbing was like and telling me about his time in Araps and the Bluies. He then without a word stumbled back into the bushes. I had to Google to check if new grandpa Hans was the Hans (Florine), which he was. J returned to Earth and I sprayed about what just happened - only for more rustling in the bushes and back comes Hans with Yuji Hirayama behind him. We shared the crag for the rest of the afternoon with some very entertaining discussion while trading belays. Yuji made comments about his lack of hand jam endurance on five and dime which made me feel better after dogging the fuck out of it after Hans exclaimed "show us what you got Mr Frog Buttress"

The second last bolt is loose and should not be clipped (5/06/24)

Beautiful, techy climb - varied. Slab start, to a beautiful roof with a committing highfoot move and exposed clip far above the roof, finishing with flowy, techy work with precise feet. Would have a higher grade on the Aussie Ewbanks system.

Fell at the roof - a great climb. Runout spoken about before anchor (on Mountain Project) has since been eliminated, and still feels ballsy AF. So happy for to take the charge on this one and put up the draws. Friend/belay partner felt this was a harder climb than Bush Administration to the left (though less sustained). Would climb this and First Impressions again. This wall is stunning.

How this doesn't have 3 stars on The Crag is beyond me. Varied, overhung and just a stunning long line with great exposure and moves for the grade. If you have to choose between this and Herbal Essences for a warm-up, choose this one. Unless you're a slab fiend.

Slabby start gets more overhung as you go. Nice and long, a harder 5.9 than those in the Canal Zone

wussed out of RH variant

with direct start, intended to swing 3 pitches to the top so pitched it out, but ended up leading this pitch too

First three moves 🙂

Busted my knee 🙃

Remove the X maybe up the grade to 5.10 ambiguous

Coming back for the send (if my fingers let me)