130ft (5.6) Up into an awful tight squeeze chimney. Maybe a better alternative is to start 20 foot right and climb up through blocks. Belay on massive ledge with massive bolts and chains.
100ft (5.8) Move across to the chimney and double crack system. Ignore the chimney on the left with the bolt (that’s “Black Sun”). Instead, on the right is a double crack system, the left crack is probably best. Climb over some loose blocks at the top to a comfy ledge with bolts and chains.
100ft (5.9) Layback up the corner, the crack widens and you move into and find a bolt, the crack narrows and you’re forced out for the crux which is protected by a bolt, you’ll stem with thin footholds and gratefully reach a large calcite hold for your left hand. More wide crack/chimney above before being forced out on to the right face just before the belay, bolts and chains.
80ft (5.8) The obvious line is straight up the off-width crack. However, easier climbing up right to join the North Chimney route, climb flakes up to rappel chains.
9月 1961 | 首攀: Layton Kor & Huntley Ingalis |
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5.6,5.8,5.9,5.8 | 难度等级 |
5.10d [5.10c - 5.11a] ++ | AI难度(grAId)系统 |
III 5.9 | Rock Climbing Utah |
III, 5.9 | ★★★ Desert Rock III - Moab to Colorado National Monument |
作者: Karl Kelley
日期: 2022
国际书号: 978-1-954040-14-4
作者: Stewart Green
日期: 2020
国际书号: 9781493039357
Kai Girard在★★★ Kor-Ingalls 5.9 - Kai on P2
Tony Williams在★★★ Kor-Ingalls 5.9 - On top of Castleton Tower...not bad eh!
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