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Entrance

  • 难度体系: US

描述

Small Wall right at the Entrance (haha, I know) of the Canyon. It's the first somewhat climbable feature in the canyon and you can spend a chill afternoon here. Especially great for beginners and also some short off-widths in here. And if you're tired of trad, there's even some nicely bolted sport routes.

Great for in winter, as it get's plenty of sun and stays warm and dry.

前往

Park at the obvious parking spot on the left of the road and then walk up the hill to the rocks.

线路

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Grade 线路

Nice handcrack in the crammed corner.

Easy start to step in, slightly loose section halfway up but still solid placements. Medium sizes are enough. Definetly some full body squeezing before stepping out to the anchor. Watch out the last part before the anchor has a loose layer.

There's a two bolt anchor 3/4 of the way up (no chain or quicklinks, bring your own gear), but you can continue to the top of the wall to the left. If doing this, you have to build an anchor yourself, some big boulders to put a sling around, only few cracks, or have a follower clean and walk off the top (8 minute walk down).

Obvious off width crack that goes into an overhanging section right before the top out. Big cams and hard to protect start.

Option to do the non overhanging part and then climb out to the left face, with the two bolts, then only 5.9 offwidth.

Nice, slightly overhanging, wider than hand crack. Turns into a fist at the small roof.

Some Beta:
When you get to the roof, place a bomber piece above the roof(watch out to not place it in a good fist spot) and put a nice deep fist into the crack and move up to the lip on the left, some mantling into the wider crack and then off slightly right to start moving into the sport route and up to the two bolt anchor.

Bomber cam placements, only small runout at the top if you don't use the bolts from the sport route, but solid holds at the top. Our favorite at this crag.

Low angle hand corner crack. Great feet, great placements. A little sketchy for the belayer, as the ground drops of on the left. Perfect for learning how to place gear on lead.

On the right side of the corner you will find two hidden anchor bolts at the top (not visible from below), we felt lucky when we found them as the corner get's brittle up top.

地区

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Right Wall 区域
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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Gerry Roach

日期: 2022

国际书号: 9781641607759

Providing accurate and comprehensive info, the 4th edition of Fulcrum Colorado's Fourteeners includes standard, alternate and technical routes for all 58 peaks over 14,000 ft. in the Centennial state.

  • Updated to include up-to-date topographic maps, GPS coordinates, expanded route details and alterations to trail access
  • Multiple tables and appendices summarize features for quick reference
  • Author Gerry Roach shares his expertise from over 50 years of mountaineering
  • Includes full colour photos and 31 maps

作者: Matt Payne and Bob Rosebrough

日期: 2022

国际书号: 9781937052775

Colorado Mountain Club:
Climbing Colorado's San Juans is a treasure trove of adventures ranging from easy scrambles for the outdoor novice to advanced, technical ascents of staggering summits for seasoned peakbaggers.
  • Chapters are organized into 13 mountain subgroups
  • Covers nearly 300 routes and 200 peaks—including 13 of Colorado's 54 fourteeners and 29 of its highest Centennial peaks
  • Includes key intel, maps, color photos and storied explanations of San Juan mountain's climbing history

作者: James Dziezynski

日期: 2021

国际书号: 9781493046201

FalconGuides:
Collecting the very best nontechnical hikes and scrambles on the Centennial State's 13,000-foot mountains, Climbing Colorado's Thirteeners showcases 50 routes among these beautiful mountains.
  • Featuring accurate driving directions, at-a-glance stats and turn-by-turn descriptions of the routes to each peak, this guide is great for adventurers of all skill levels
  • Though the guide covers the entire state of Colorado, there is a slight bias toward summits within a 2 hr. drive of the Denver/Boulder metro area

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