条目 in Wall of Cracks

Start 100 m right and downhill from Crimson Crysalis in a chimney.

Pitch 1: 5.8, 35m, chimney and crack to double bolt belay

Pitch 2: 5.9, 35m, follow crack to ledge and head left up to the crack that leads to the crux pitch dihedral. Either belay from rappel anchor (25m, step left on ledge) or build an anchor at the base of the crack

Pitch 3: 5.10, 30m, hand crack and face climbing trending left to ledge below dihedral with double bolt belay

Pitch 4: 5.12a, 30m, face climb past two old bolts into the techy, pumpy finger/tips dihedral. Final hand jams lead to stance with 3 bolt belay

Pitch 5: 5.10, 40m, steep hand and fist crack that gets wider towards the top but face holds and a thin crack within the crack prevents any serious off width action. Build belay on gear

Pitch 6: 5.something, 15m, tunnel through the chimney to reach a stance in the west side. Belay on old slings and gear

Pitch 7: 5.11d, 35m, up the steep waving crack over several buldges to rappel anchor

Gear: 3-4 C3#0.1-#0.3, 2 C4#0.4-#0.75, 3 #1-#3, 1-2 #4, set of stoppers

Descent: rappel on the west face with single 70m rope via 6 newly bolted anchors to the ledge, walk left to the second anchor. Rap to the ground from there.

One of the best 5.8's in the world.

1. 140ft (5.8)

2. 100ft (5.8)

3. 100ft (5.8) 2&3 can be linked with 60m rope.

4. 160ft (5.8)

5. 110ft (5.8)

6. 100ft (5.6)

7. 130ft (5.7)

8. 80ft (5.7)

9. 75ft (5.8)

Descent: rap the route.