Logan Brae Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Logan Brae 29 routes in Crag

2 1

1 Main Cliff 2 Lower-Again Brae

Summary:

E

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Estacionalidad

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -33.670191, 150.257511

descripción

Short, steep and pumpy.

The access to this cliff is through private property and the situation is delicate. Privacy, environmental impact, safety and the parking situation are of serious concern to the landowners. They are allowing access to continue for the time being but their patience is surely being tested. See "Access issues" below. The conditions of access and the parking restrictions are not optional. Please don't stuff it up.

Remember, the land owners are not inviting you onto their land; if you enter take full personal responsibility for yourself and your actions (and any accidents). Almost all routes here require a hefty stick-clip of a high first bolt. There is nasty drop below most routes - either the climber or belayer should be clipped into something at all times to avoid a major catastrophe.

Need a toilet? Never crap at the crag or around the carpark. Please use the brand new public toilet located at Hargraves Lookout (2.3km past the Logan Brae carpark).

Thanks to Simon Carter for providing this information from the 2019 Blue Mountains Climbing guidebook. Check https://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/ for latest information.

© (mjw)

restricciones

The landowners currently are allowing access but ONLY under the following conditions.

• Stay on the track, no shortcuts.
• Do not enter any other part of the property.
• Do not damage vegetation. Respect regeneration.
• No dogs.
• No littering.
• No fires.
• No cairns.
• No camping.
• No overnight parking.

PARKING RESTRICTIONS: Please also strictly adhere to the parking guidelines, these are not optional:

• Strictly, no more than four (4) cars are to park in the main parking area. No large vans.
• DO NOT park at the pull-off 80m back down the hill towards Blackheath
• DO NOT park anywhere further up the hill!
• And DO NOT park anywhere on the right (northern) side of the road!

Consider car-pooling. If the parking spaces are full go somewhere else!

If we observe these guidelines, then this access might remain usable for longer. Educate your mates.

Note: There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', further up the road, under any circumstances. Info in the 2010 guidebook, and earlier editions, is out of date, see https://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/ for latest information.

© (mjw)

Acceso

From Blackheath drive out on Shipley Road (past the Centennial Glen turnoff) and out onto Shipley Plateau. 4.5km from the Blackheath traffic lights there is a fork in the road, now stay left (signed to Hargraves Lookout) and drive 220m up the hill and park at a small pull off at the second power pole on the left.

Observe the parking restrictions:

• Strictly, no more than four (4) cars are to park in the main parking area. No large vans.
• DO NOT park at the pull-off 80m back down the hill towards Blackheath
• DO NOT park anywhere further up the hill!
• DO NOT park anywhere on the right (northern) side of the road!

Consider car-pooling. If the parking spaces are full then go somewhere else!

The track to the crag is located the right side of the entry area (no lazy 'shortcuts, please).

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances.

© (mjw)

Ética

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

heredado de Blue Mountains

Ocultar Editar Añadir elemento a la reseña Reseña administrador Enlace a esta reseña Hide

1.1. Main Cliff 27 routes in Crag

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -33.670212, 150.257435

Resumen

Best “gym” in the mountains.

Acceso

The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach.

Ocultar Leyenda Editar Añadir elemento a la reseña Reseña administrador Enlace a esta reseña Hide Ocultar Leyenda Editar Añadir elemento a la reseña Reseña administrador Enlace a esta reseña Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Gropertron An ugly duckling that climbs well. Far left route of the crag sharing the start and first bolt with Room with a View. Only has a single bolt as a lower-off. Don't try and cheat the last move - Mikl has made sure that's not possible! PA: Mikl Law, 2001	25	Deportiva 15m
2		★★ Room With a View The best warm up here. PA: C.Hale, 1996	22	Deportiva 15m
3		★ Side Effect Two boulders split by jugs. PA: F.Yule, 1995	22	Deportiva 15m
4		★★ Surprise Package Bouldery start to awesome finale. PA: J.Clark, 1996	24	Deportiva 17m, 8
5		★★ The Never Believers Bouldery start to monkey juggery. PA: C.Hale, 1996	23	Deportiva 15m, 8
6		★★ Alien Signature RB's up overhanging juggy wall and through the roof PA: J.Kurko, 1996	23	Deportiva 19m
7		★★ Creep Show Excellent pumpy climbing up the wall, through the roof, and on to the slab above. PA: F.Yule, 1995	23	Deportiva 18m
8		★ Hilti's not Guilty Quite squeezy through the bulge unfortunately. Probably climbs best if you can keep your blinkers on and stay really direct above the 4th & 5th bolts, to keep it entirely independent of both neighbouring routes. But its worthwhile whichever holds you use. PA: J.Clark, 1996	25	Deportiva 16m
9		★★ Wedding Bell Blues Short but it packs a punch for the length! The busted 3rd bolt has been replaced. - P.T PA: J.Clark, 1996	23	Deportiva 12m
10		★★ Critters Start as for WBB but head right and up. Hard. PA: J.Kurko, 1996	25	Deportiva 20m
11		★★ Kathy K Start up juggy rooflet, then some good rock and powerful climbing right up until the anchors. PA: J.Kurko, 1996	25	Deportiva 16m
12		★ Cabbage Power Grovel through the dirt or batman. The obvious link into VD at the 3rd bolt has been done ("Demented Cabbage", same grade, FRA D. O'Donnell 2006). PA: M.Pircher, 1997	24	Deportiva 15m
13		★★★ Vertical Dementia One of the best and most sustained of the grade in the mountains. Nothing too cruxy, but relentless climbing that will keep you honest all the way to the anchors. PA: J.Kurko, 1996	24	Deportiva 18m
14		★ The Diving Board Lower pocket crux then jugs to an oddly placed anchor. Continuing up Vertical Dementia improves it. PA: M. File	24	Deportiva 15m
15		★ Shaggy D.A. Short steep little arete. Low crux then lots of jugs and a runout to the anchor. PA: J.Clark, 1996	23	Deportiva 15m, 6
16		★★★ Dr Stein The crag classic!! Crux down low but plenty of funky holds and tricky moves to keep you pumping all the way to the top. PA: F.Yule, 1995	25	Deportiva 18m, 10
17		★★ EIEIO Just squeezed in but still popular for the grade. Good, funky Logan Brae climbing with some holds that seep. Some filling down the bottom, no drilling. PA: M.Law, 1997	28	Deportiva 18m
Ocultar Leyenda Editar Añadir elemento a la reseña Reseña administrador Enlace a esta reseña Hide Ocultar Leyenda Editar Añadir elemento a la reseña Reseña administrador Enlace a esta reseña Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
18		★★ Strawberry Blonde First bolt as for EIEIO then bust out right and up. PA: M.Baker, 1995	24	Deportiva 18m, 9
19		★★ Rain Maker Start just right of EIEIO. Follow the chalk up through the jugs to finish at the giant U. If the moss above doesn't turn you off a good finish is to quest onwards to the Shark Pool anchors. Has been linked into Shark Pool at the 4th bolt ("Flake Maker", maybe adds a grade, FRA D. O'Donnell 2006). PA: J.Clark, 1996	24	Deportiva 18m, 6
20		★★ Shark Pool Some fairly large moves on some less large holds. Careful of the veg at the start. PA: S.Atkins, 1996	26	Deportiva 12m
21		★★ Elastic Analysis Short, juggy, fun. PA: J.Clark, 1996	23	Deportiva 12m, 5
22		Post Swing Jitters PA: J.Kurko, 1996	24	Deportiva 18m
23		★ Dead Man Walking Funky 3D climbing on incredibly slippery rock. Was once grade 21! Rebolted 2019. PA: C.Hale, 1996	22	Deportiva 18m, 7
24		★★ Mountain Ant Right trending line up marbled rock 1m right of DMW. Distinct crux near the top on crimps. Named in memory of climber Anthony Harris - RIP.	24	Deportiva 20m, 8
25		★★ Fuck Cancer Starts 4m right of Dead Man Walking at log start. Similar to Mountain Ant on water washed featured rock and a distinct crux above the bulge.	24	Deportiva 17m, 9
Ocultar Leyenda Editar Añadir elemento a la reseña Reseña administrador Enlace a esta reseña Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
The next 2 climbs are about 80m right of the main area. They are up in a large overhang, accessed via a short scramble with rungs.
27		★★ Hip to the Bumper Crop Thin, steep and sharp. A false start then some really good moves. PA: A.Richardson, 2002	27	Deportiva 15m
28		★★ Big Hit with the Kids Shared start with HTTBC then after the 5th bolt bam out right and up. PA: A.Richardson, 2002	28	Deportiva 15m

1.2. Lower-Again Brae 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -33.670196, 150.257664

descripción

The lower cliff line below 'Logan Brae' 'Main Wall'

© (Macciza)

Acceso

Rap-in then climb out affair.

© (Macciza)

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
22		★	Dead Man Walking	Deportiva 18m, 7		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	Room With a View	Deportiva 15m		1.1. Main Cliff
		★	Side Effect	Deportiva 15m		1.1. Main Cliff
23		★★	Alien Signature	Deportiva 19m		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	Creep Show	Deportiva 18m		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	Elastic Analysis	Deportiva 12m, 5		1.1. Main Cliff
		★	Shaggy D.A.	Deportiva 15m, 6		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	The Never Believers	Deportiva 15m, 8		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	Wedding Bell Blues	Deportiva 12m		1.1. Main Cliff
			The Grit Down Under	Clásica 35m		1.2. Lower-Again Brae
24		★	Cabbage Power	Deportiva 15m		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	Fuck Cancer	Deportiva 17m, 9		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	Mountain Ant	Deportiva 20m, 8		1.1. Main Cliff
			Post Swing Jitters	Deportiva 18m		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	Rain Maker	Deportiva 18m, 6		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	Strawberry Blonde	Deportiva 18m, 9		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	Surprise Package	Deportiva 17m, 8		1.1. Main Cliff
		★	The Diving Board	Deportiva 15m		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★★	Vertical Dementia	Deportiva 18m		1.1. Main Cliff
25		★★	Critters	Deportiva 20m		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★★	Dr Stein	Deportiva 18m, 10		1.1. Main Cliff
		★	Gropertron	Deportiva 15m		1.1. Main Cliff
		★	Hilti's not Guilty	Deportiva 16m		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	Kathy K	Deportiva 16m		1.1. Main Cliff
26		★★	Shark Pool	Deportiva 12m		1.1. Main Cliff
27		★★	Hip to the Bumper Crop	Deportiva 15m		1.1. Main Cliff
28		★★	Big Hit with the Kids	Deportiva 15m		1.1. Main Cliff
		★★	EIEIO	Deportiva 18m		1.1. Main Cliff
?			Holey Grit - Project	ClásicaProyecto		1.2. Lower-Again Brae