Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sáb 27.º Abr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 ~19 | ★★★ Sizzler - con Angela Ha | 81m | |||||
Tried P1 of sizzler and absolutely sizzled in the sun. Eventually used some sport climber beta to overcome the overhang and sweated my way up through the jams. Condiiis!
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17 | ★★ Sap - con Angela Ha | 55m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Another awesome hand crack, Wolgan does not disappoint. Just did P1
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Vie 26.º Abr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Cactus - con Angela Ha | 78m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
I led pitch one and how good! Fun stemming and jamming, had to push myself on this one. Ange led P2 which had a cruxy bit at the start and then felt much easier
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18 | ★★ Decline and Fall - con Angela Ha | 99m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
An awesome finger crack with good feet and face holds. Just did P1
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Vie 26.º Abr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Excalibur - con Angela Ha | 100m, 1 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
An absolutely epic line! Mental crux was definitely the cavey bit at the top of P1, which ange crushed through on lead. Had my own little spicy moment on one of the overhangs later on. So good watching the sunset from the top, managed to make our way down the overgrown gully without having the cops called 😛
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Jue 25.º Abr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger - con Angela Ha | 74m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
An epic climb, super fun going around the rooflet when starting P2
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Jue 25.º Abr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - con Angela Ha, Mira, James, Alina | 22m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
What an awesome crack! Lovely jams and awesome laybacking
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19 ~17 | ★ Agent Orange - con Angela Ha, Mira, James, Alina | 90m, 3 | |||||
First climb in the Wolgan! Fun going up through the scoops, felt rather easy
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Sáb 16.º Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 Fácil | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - con Flynn Howley | 22m | |||||
Vie 15.º Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★ Sap - con Flynn Howley | 55m | |||||
Jue 14.º Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
17 ~16 | ★★ Sap | 55m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
14 | ★★ Organ Grinder | 60m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mar 17.º Oct 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Amazing first pitch. Lower off rings, top pitch is choss anyways
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Mar 13.º Jun 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Tranzister | 40m | |||||
20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | |||||
Mar 13.º Jun 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler P1
1
30m
| 30m | |||||
Jue 16.º Mar 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Lun 3.º Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
So good I forgot to place gear for half the pitch.
Awwweeeesome. Keen to come back for the full route but ran out of day. |
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19 | ★★★ The Knuckle | 52m | |||||
Superb. The overhanging changing corners weirdness on pitch 2 is stupidly good. Linked p1 and p2 together.
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Lun 3.º Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★ Helzapoppin | 45m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Astoundingly good trad slabbing.
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20 | ★★ Frodo | 51m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Increasingly thin. Awesome long pitch.
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Dom 2.º Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
15 | ★★ Tupelo Honey | 42m | |||||
19 | ★ Positively 4th Street | 43m | |||||
16 |
★★ Conspiracy
1
2
| 45m | |||||
14 |
★ Absolutely Sweet Marie P1
1
| 58m | |||||
14 | ★ Absolutely Sweet Marie | 58m | ★ Buena | ||||
19 | ★ Positively 4th Street | 43m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
16 |
★★ Conspiracy
1
16
45m
2
| 45m | ★ Buena | ||||
15 | ★★ Tupelo Honey | 42m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Soaking wet in the crack.
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Sáb 1.º Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Eldorado | |||||||
18 |
★★ Cymbeline
1
2
| 75m, 1 | |||||
18 | ★★ Cymbeline | 75m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Quality climbing with good gear. Clean and dry when everything else at the crag were very dirty.
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Vie 30.º Sep 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle P1
1
| 52m | |||||
17 |
★★ Sap
1
2
3
| 55m | |||||
Lun 27.º Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Upper | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Dr Freeze | 82m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Great movement in a spectcular position. Access via the western gully was an adventure in itself.
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Lun 27.º Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | ★ Buena | ||||
Lun 27.º Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Such an awesome route and position. Charging to the top of old baldy blind had a feeling of old school adventure with the benefits of modern protection. The overhung crack and dihedral sections were great.
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Lun 27.º Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Cactus | 78m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Vie 17.º Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
- con
Sean Peters
| 86m | |||||
All the stemming and lots of finger crack.
Linked P1-2 and P3-4. Topped out because I missed the final ring bolts (they're left around an arete and not visible when following the crack). Even though the last 10m is pretty average pro/climbing, just finishing at the bolts seems anti-climactic anyway. Gear: triples to 3 and wires when linking; preserve small cams. |
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19 |
★★★ Sizzler (Sizzler P1)
- con
Sean Peters
1
19
30m
| 30m | |||||
Oops. Slipped out of the thin hands above the overhang. Stiff warmup!
Also RIP one of the footholds below the overhang. |
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18 |
★★★ Sizzler (Sizzler P1)
- con
Sean Peters
1
30m
| 30m | |||||
Got some better hand jams at the overhang and then a very high left foot.
The fist jam section felt hard! Some serious exertion between the rest positions on this one - felt a little sick by the end and struggled to even lift the rope to clip the anchors. Cool crack moves throughout - even used hand stacks in the final offwidth. (Maybe questionable RP ethics here: I didn't clean the pieces I fell on and started above the first juggy moves). Gear: crack gets continually wider... singles .3-.75,3x1,3x2,2x3,2x4, bolt plate |
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Dom 12.º Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Sáb 11.º Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
15 17 | ★★ Sap - con David | 55m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Lun 6.º Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ In the Name of Morality | 65m | |||||
one of the best lines on Cook Ovens which surprisingly does not get that many ascents.
Definitely can and should be done as a single pitch. First part will consume all your big gear (not bigger than 4) while the second part will go on small cams and medium nuts. on the softer side of 21
70m rope JUST reaches the ground on the stretch on the abseil
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Lun 6.º Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | |||||
one of my favourites in Wolgan. really cool move through the roof followed by sustained and super good finger-locking sequences. Didn't do well on the onsight but was able to send it on my second trip no probs. foot slipped a few times and I was hanging just on my fingerlocks - that's how good they are!
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21 | ★★★ Tranzister | 40m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
not my cup of tea really. would give it two stars for trick and powerful crux but otherwise... some easy pre-crux climbing on average rock followed by not-so-cracky climbing along the sandy seam with some smallish nuts for pro (does accept a couple of good pieces though). Some might like it but I prefer long clean finger-size crack offered by TDM
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Sáb 4.º Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ In the Name of Morality - con Dmitry Linkov | 65m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
my favourite in coke ovens
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Sáb 21.º Mayo 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Great jam crack! Only had one #4 so bumped it until I could no longer then just ran it out. Pumpy getting through the overhang before being established in the crack
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Dom 8.º Mayo 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★ Planet Waves - con Hugh Ward | 70m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Sáb 7.º Mayo 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Corregidor - con Hugh Ward | 43m, 16 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
22 | ★★★ Red Hot 'n' Blue - con Hugh Ward | 54m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
18 | ★★ Spaghetti Western - con Hugh Ward | 55m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mié 4.º Mayo 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
- con
Martin Cankov
1
19
52m
2
3
| 52m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Mié 4.º Mayo 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | ★ Buena | ||||
19 | ★★ Ghoul - con Martin Cankov | 60m | ★ Buena | ||||
Lun 18.º Abr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★ Secret Swinger
1
16
50m
2
24m
| 74m | |||||
Dom 17.º Abr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Scimitar
- con
root
1
18
50m
2
17
40m
| 90m | |||||
Access via Secret Swinger. The scramble up the left side of pedestal is a touch sketchy. Linked climb into 2 pitches. Tree anchors at the top are no longer usable, save some gear to build an anchor. The rap off stiletto gets you down to the base of the pedestal avoiding the dodgy down climb.
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Dom 17.º Abr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★ Zoro's Toaster - con root, Cait Campbell, ally | 28m | |||||
17 |
★★ Aquiline (Aquiline P1)
- con
root, Cait Campbell, ally
1
17
63m
2
| 63m | |||||
First pitch only
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16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | |||||
And again as a single pitch to access Scimitar
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Dom 17.º Abr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Scimitar
1
16
91m
2
18
3
17
4
17
| 91m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Epic views over the wolgan with a spicy chimney
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Sáb 16.º Abr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
17 |
★★ Aquiline P1
1
17
63m
| 63m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Favourite line of the long weekend, big move through cave and sweet face crack
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17 | ★ Zoro's Toaster | 28m | |||||
Vie 15.º Abr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus (Cactus P1)
- con
root
1
18
21m
2
18
15m
3
18
30m
4
16
20m
| 86m | |||||
First pitch only, nice chimney moves
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14 |
★★ Organ Grinder (Organ Grinder P1)
1
14
30m
2
| 30m | |||||
First climb at the Wolgan. First pitch only, inside crack still damp.
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18 |
★★★ Cactus P1
1
18
21m
| 21m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Awesome finger crack
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14 | ★★ Organ Grinder | 60m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
First time climbing on gear, sick!
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Sáb 9.º Abr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses - con Dmitry Linkov | 72m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Mar 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★★ The Knuckle - con Sophie Lewandowski | 52m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Everything feels wild in wolgan, great day
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Mié 23.º Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
The Badlands | |||||||
21 | Pr.Asc. ★★★ The Badlands | 70m | |||||
20 | Pr.Asc. ★★★ Arete Central | 35m, 6 | |||||
21 | Pr.Asc. ★★★ The house Jack built | 30m, 3 | |||||
FFA.
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20 | Pr.Asc. ★★ Acoustic Corner | 80m | |||||
20 | Pr.Asc. ★★ Home by six | 70m | |||||
20 | Pr.Asc. ★ Tears of the sun | 45m, 1 | |||||
18 | ★★ Via Appia. | 55m, 8 | |||||
20 | ★★ Interregnum | 55m, 15 | |||||
22 | Pr.Asc. ★★★ Knights of Cydonia | 60m | |||||
FFA.
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19 | Pr.Asc. ★ Off Limits | 40m | |||||
Mié 23.º Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
20 | Pr.Asc. ★ The Last Samurai | 70m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
21 | ★★ The Slider | 60m | |||||
Mié 23.º Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Crossing The Rubicon | 38m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
22 | ★★★ Red Hot 'n' Blue | 54m | |||||
23 | ★★★ Chrysalis | 35m, 11 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Dom 20.º Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
have climbed numerous times. one of the better face routes at the grade in the wolgan
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20 | ★★ Full Tilt | 55m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
great and engaging climbing. only done the once but would repeat.
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16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
a good expereince not sure i would repeat this i climbed past anchor on the right and continued about runout dirty corner to the top
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21 | ★★ A Spoonful of Sugar - con Hugh Ward | 50m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
17 | ★★ Helzapoppin - con Hugh Ward | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mié 16.º Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Room to Move - con Mungo Skyring | 65m | |||||
15 | ★★ Zarathustra - con Mungo Skyring | 70m | |||||
19 | ★★ Ghoul - con Mungo Skyring | 60m | |||||
Mié 16.º Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar - con Mungo Skyring | 91m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Did the crack start not on top of the pedestal. Went into the climb blind. Did it in 4 pitches. Megafun with some terrifying moments in between. Accessed upper cliff via Ghoul
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Dom 13.º Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★ Positively 4th Street - con Alex Mantaut | 43m | ★ Buena | ||||
Bottom half is awesome! I followed the crack all the way to the top, but wasn't really worth it. Probably more bang for your buck to just rap down from the anchors on 'Absolutely Sweet Marie'.
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16 |
★★ Conspiracy
- con
Alex Mantaut
| 45m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Really cool, cruisy climbing! Did it in two pitches, I lead the first, Alex lead the second.
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Dom 6.º Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
20 |
★ The Last Samurai
1
20
70m
2
3
| 70m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Couple of holds came off close to the crux so had to have a sit and re-evaluate my life choices
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