Ascents of The Wars of the Roses

I can see why pitch 3 is the legend that the wind sings the songs about. Mega commitment mode needs activation incoherent to some subconscious praying to the Wolganverse. Can be aptly described as an intergalactic voyage hypothetically invoking similar excitement and fear.

But I would like to say a word to two about Pitch The Second. Now Mr.Steven's guidebook doesn't give a grade to The Pitch, only a 'hand' is stamped to it as a reference. Igonarently assuming an easy grade ramble up some loose blocks, I was confronted by some pretty technical stemming on some pretty mobile terrain. Placing gear behind a block that possessed the ability to replicate music of an African drum, subdued trauma pushing me forward, I found myself bear hugging one these blocks holding on to the biggest jug of the entire route. "I think its moving Andy. It definitely moves".

Never in my life I have been so happy to reach a belay station inspite of not having the gear for its perfect rock. "Whatever it is, it won't be as bad as what just happened down low".

"Proposterously good".

PS Apologies to the visiting American climbers we scared away from the top of Pitch 2 as they were about to simultaneously board the jam train of P1. I guess our healthcare is better than theirs and we wouldn't have had to strip them to make it look like a hiking accident.

Pitch 1 only

Seconded all pitches. Amazing climbing, with some great and not so great rock.

Alt leads with Dave, in 3 pitches. Rap off tree to top of first pitch, then rap to ground

Excelent exciting adventure climb. Linked P1&P2, and P3&P4 together. P1 is beautiful and can be done as a single pitch. P2 really enjoyable funky climbing in to the corner under roof. Belay stance was on top the suspended somewhat worrying block but good pro (sml-med cams) . P3 was probably my most exciting trad lead yet.. #4 deep in under roof crack then a couple of pumpy moves. Continue corner crack to top. Belay off tree which had on it slings and biners. 2 x 70m ropes easily got us to the ground in one rap with rope to spare. 60s might just work to but best to check!

The snug belay under the roof is on some hollow sounding blocks - they are most probably safe but treat them gently!

Awesome corner crack. A must do. We only did the first pitch as we escaped the kids for only a short time and had to get back as it was a family trip.

Such a great climb with a lot of variety. P1 in a great corner crack and a good route in its own right. P2 is good climbing with some interesting moves, pulling onto the hanging block and then belaying on it is a bit disconcerting but I am sure it won't budge. P3 is great moves under a roof that felt fairly strong but the gear was good. P4 is fun easy climbing all the way to the top.

Awesome route with classic climbing and an exhilarating roof

With Neil. P1 - 2nd Clean, one of the most perfect sustained pure jam-cracks I've ever done in the Blueys, Lots of #1 - #3 BD cams; P2 - Onsight. Much trickier (and better) than it looks, climbing a weird dihedral feature. The loose blocks at the top are scary, but seem keyed-in; P3 - 2nd Clean, #4 cam useful. Airy, scary and committing under roof, but once you commit it'll go easily enough. A good onsight by Neil. Nice finish; P4 - Onsight, easy but enjoyable clean corner to the top.

You'll always regret not giving it 100%, but you'll also never understand this when you're pumped out on the lip of a roof.

onisght 2) second 3) onsight 4) second