Voies dans Katoomba Area pour la cotation selectionnée

Start: Center of wall at right corner right of black streak.

For a bit of an idea see the 2007 Calendar

\' predominantly mechanical route taking a thin crack to its natural conclusion\' J. Ewbank

Start: The crack on the right corner of the corner. Start marked.

1. -m (14 M5) Free and aid on friable rock up to belay on shale ledge.

2. 30m (14 M5) Free to base of corner then on aid to roof. Around the roof and a few free moves to bolt anchor.

3. 50m (-) P 3 & 4. Aid then free to ledge and bolt, right along ledge and follow easiest route to the top.

Start: Nose the right of Whisky Gully. 83m

1. (15m) Diagonal traverse around nose then into crack - chimney. Up to bulge then out to ledge up to right. Tree anchor.

2. (18m) "Walk along scrub-covered ledge until faced with appalling wet mossy wall. Ascend arete to right using human footholds, to leave ground. Climb to small bush and crack. A horrible, delicate traverse to the left is followed by a desperate lunge to a grassy ledge." [BA]

3. (12m) Up easy face to broad ledge, short wall, and tree belay.

4. (30m) Easily to top.

Walk past DRP and continue past double rap rings on arete. 20m further is an old rap station made of old green tape tied off a gum tree. 5m further is a gum tree growing beneath some think brush. Sandstone block marked 'S' with cairn on top here. Scramble up through scrub for approx 10m then head right to find the line of fixed hangers.

1. 33m (8). Fixed hangers & Carrots. Up and right to cave on arete. Easy face climbing on easy angled slab, straight up with some beautiful views. Stay on route or risk hitting some chossy rock. Triple Carrot belay on ledge (admire old rusty belay in cave on your right.)

2. 26m (8) Left along ledge, then up and back to corner. It's possible to scramble off left here.

3. 14m (6) A fixed hanger, then medium cams/nuts. Up right crack. Belay off Rap anchors in Chimney. To get off here, rap to previous belay & scramble left or...

4. 26m (14) Alternate Finish. Chimney up abseil route, past anchor and up. Walk off as for Dirty Rotten Pig. Easy face climbing up the line of ring bolts just left (facing the cliff) of the first boars head abseil.

LOST FROM LEFT SCRAMBLE? If you're just climbing the bolted sections, here's how to get out:

Follow the line of bolts left, around the cliff, through the small forest and up onto the slab (about 15 mins). Look to your left and you'll see a set of staples in the boulder. Set up a hand-line from here using the bolts- left to the small cave, then around to the opposite side of the boulder, following the line of bolts along a high traverse, over a small gap, before meeting the main cliffline and short walk up to the carpark. You will not be able to belay due to the amount of turns so be careful setting this line up, and consider ways of protecting yourself. Tie the end off at the last bolt and use the standard 2 carabiners on safety to traverse, with draws at each bolt. Note- the exit can be much more daunting for a nervous beginner than the actual climb, but is a fun experience.

Aid up crack to roof, left to ledge, left to rock and up into the choss!

Start: Thin left leading seam in small roof on the left side of the 'Waterfall' cave.

Wall, aid through overhang, slab right to chossy ledge below overhang, right and up to big ledge. Take Care!

Start: 15m right of scramble route to the 100 Man Bivouac Ledge.

Slab.

Start: 6m right of 100' Slab anchor 2.

Chickenhead and bolt, up and left.

Start: 2m right again!

Tree to lip, aid right to bolts, free, then right to cave, wall to ledge and bollard, up to trees. 2). Right up wall. Take wires and slings.

Start: 10m right of CB. (tree growing to lip of roof?).

1).Aid to roof,left then out to lip, onto wall, right to ledge. 2).Left, over bulges, right to blank corner, up, left at top then to scubby ledge. 'Gully' to right.

Start: Ar right end of Psyncave.

Corner formed by left side of big block.

Start: 8m right of Fuddy Cracks.

Thin scrubby crack, wall to bulge, to ledge near gully. 2).Traverse to weakness in overhang and up.

Start: 20m right of TH.

As for QD to piton past nose, ledge. 3).Traverse left to inset ledge below hidden corner, up, step right, up, walk off right.

Start: From N anchor 1.

A sketchy, poorly protected, and sometimes exposed climb out which is usually done after completing the Castle Head abseil route as an alternative to walking out. Be warned though, the final pitch is very poorly protected, exposed, and consists of mostly soft crumbly rock. If you can't make it up this then you will have to abseil back down and walk out. After pitch one the route essentially follows the centre of the ridge, with some questing and abyss hopping between pitches.

1. 25m (14) Up crack one metre left of final abseil, and slightly right to tree belay. Alternatively, bypass this pitch by walking left under the cliffline towards Ruined Castle, then scramble right up the highest point of the ridge.

2. 40m (14) Up vegetated crack system on right, mindful of loose boulders, then from ledge climb face or traverse left onto slab face and up. DRB chains.

3. 5m (8) Step across slot, place a cam (mainly to protect second) then up for a few metres and on to rap anchor.

4. 15m (14) Up face past a few rusty carrots. Anchor is 5m past top out, bolt plus tree.

5. 15m (5) Grade nothing run out slab to bolt and tree anchor.

6. 25m (14) Up exposed jug haul. Run out, some big pro, bad rock. DRB chains.

This may start 25m right of Sweet And Sour at a corner that leads up to a shallow groove on the left hand side of a small wall above the track.

70m to the right of Diamond Jack the track passes a large boulder in amongst the trees. Warlock starts another 10m to the right. Marked with a W and the first carrot is visible 3m above the track.

Long, laid back, good-­‐looking arête. Take a few mixed cams. Has been done in one pitch. Start: The obvious soaring arête L of Angophora Crack. Start at small tree.

1. 15m (14) Up behind small tree to BR. Best to stick clip. Move R to arête base. Up passing BR’s, to FH, L [crux] to stance and lower offs for Skyfall.

2. 35m (12) Spaced BR’s and cams on nose/arête to belay tree.

Varied climbing up a series of fused corners and bulges. Start: Follow open ledge above track height from dog wall. Left of (OH) 15m. Locate fused angophora in start of thin crack system. Pitch 1: Up thin crack past angophora, gain ledge. Continue through steeper ground locating two BR on right bulge. Finish large ledge as for OH. Locate DRBB. Ben Sanford, Bradley Cameron March 2015

A nice wall climb.

Start: Just left of rock "pulpit".

1. 23m (crux) Up wall to ledge and tree belay.

2. 11m Up overhang to top.

Pleasant climbing up central Dog Wall.

Start: 3 meters right of OH.

1. Up to prominent orange circle and angled bulge to gain BR. Negotiate bulge. Up to BR. Good med. size cams. Finish DRBB.

Balance wall-climbing with good rock but poor protection.

Start: Right arete of Easy Gully (5m left of Virgo).

1. 27m (crux) Up arete for 8m then right to nose and up slab trending right to ledge below corner in overhang and piton belay.

2. 12m Up corner to ledge, trend left and up overhang to top and bollard belay.

A strenuous crack, good jamb protection.

Start: Obvious crack marked A, just left of broken corners below vegetated gully which appears to be the old abseil point.

1. 20m (crux) Up crack to broken ledge below overhang, left around nose and bulge (or mantleshelf onto it) then up to sloping ledge and up juggy wall behind.

2. 6m Up crack behind (tree belay).

A good wall and rib. This climb celebrates Harry’s 80th birthday and over 50 years of climbing. Start: 3 metres right of H. Up wall with 3 BR and cams if you desire. Up to DFLO at ledge.

optional cams