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Multi-pitch sport climb. ~100m. Grades 19,19,17,14. All protection is ring or U bolts, no carrots. Faces south west - so shade until early afternoon.

Access path is 60m SOUTH of Cahill's Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. (access path: http://goo.gl/maps/1TsvL)

Take at least 14 draws. Be prepared for hanging belays, take lots of locking ‘biners. Twin or double ropes recommended for long abseils and sharp rope-cutting ironstone which is abundant on this route. There is plenty of loose rock on this route - be careful to stick to the line and not stray into the chossville around it. Helmets highly recommenced and be very careful if there are multiple parties on the route at the same time.

Alternate Access if the abseils are swarming with guided groups-either walk down Devil's Hole (pretty but hard to find the start) or rap down off 2 Ubolts 3m west (R facing out) of normal rap anchor (straight down pitch 4). Then go down the gully for a few meters and walk/traverse out on right wall and eventually find the top of P3 (i.e. reverse the normal route). Leave a long cordlette on the Ubolts to get the screwgate over the edge and rap the route. Either 3 raps or it looks like you can rap P3 (35m) and P2 (25m) in one 60m rap (it's slightly diagonal so the first down should clip one or two bolts) , then P1 (40m)- I haven't tried so take 2 x 60m ropes (or longer) and prusiks.

Orientation: the crag runs more-or-less NORTH-SOUTH. The access path is the EAST side of the cliff, the Megalong Valley below is on the WEST side of the cliff.

Follow access path until you reach 2 chains. This is where you will start and finish.

Rappel ~20m down from chains to the floor of the gully below. (On your way down, scan on your left (if facing rock) for U-bolts which will be protection for the climb out on P4.)

Walk SOUTH, following the rock face on the WEST. Do not take the much steeper, narrow northern path. (On the walk down, try to spot the single U-bolt placed high up on the western face, about half way down the gully hill; you walk past it or could rap from it.)

Follow the track around to the right, traversing at the height of the U-bolt until you have almost done a complete circle. You will pass another U-bolt on the right at about head-height. You will find a very windy chimney/rock split.

You need to pass through the chimney to access 3 rappel chains hidden from view. You can solo this part or setup belay from previous U-bolt. 2 U-bolts in chimney, 1 outside chimney.

Rappel down from 3 chains. You should head WEST when you lower. Try to spot the 2 rappel chains below you and aim for them. You may rappel ~15m to lower 2 rappel chains, or skip those chains and continue ~25m (~40m total) to a single ring-bolt chest-height on SOUTH face of wall.

Rappel ~10m to 2 rappel chains on edge of cliff. (this step can be skipped, but be wary of running out 50m rope)

Rappel ~40m from 2 chains to solid ground.

Following the cliff on your right, head WEST then NORTH along path until you reach U-bolts. This is the start of the ascent. If you reach a nose, or tree with slings around it you have gone too far.

1. 40m (19). Start is difficult and belay is right above huge drop-off so make sure belayer is on safety. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup semi hanging belay.

2. 25m (19). Soft, sandy slopers mostly. Watch for funnel web spiders; they are deadly. Finish at 3 U-bolts at ledge.

3. 35m (17). Really easy but be careful of sharp ironstone, it can sever rope. Finish at multiple U-bolts on top ledge.

Walk EAST on the top of the cliff and walk to the left (north) of the first pinnacle, over the sketchy looking ledge. Follow path to the right (south) of the second pinnacle, which is the "Boars Head" rock feature.

Follow the cliff around the southern side of Boars Head and you will find the gully from the first rappel. Stay belayed and keep traversing.

1. 25m (14) Climb back to 2 rappel chains at the start. Climb is located 6m left of the top abseil at start. First bolt can be hard to find, you may need to solo about 2m at the narrowest point of the chimney to find first bolt. Either sneak off right at the top, or direct on left.

Note: this guide does not distinguish between ring bolts and U-bolts. If U-bolt is listed, ring bolt might be present.

Guide by Paul Hauner and Joel Griggs. February 2014.

Start just left of tree, or right at chipped J.

Up the overhang, optionally sling tree, clip the fixed hanger, then a short crank to glory and stainless carrot security. Walk off to right.

Route bolter, please claim and name.

Aid to ledge, left past hollow flake, blank corner of left, to break, up and around overhangs to ledge. Off right.

Start: 25m right of 'Algae Corner'.

Corner to roof, aid out and around then free.

Start: As for L.

Use tree to climb overhang, up to ledge above BP corner. 2). Corner to tree, traverse left to crack and up.

Start: 4m right of BP.

Up to bolt, left then right again to piton, up, slight left around overhang, arete to ledge. 2). Right wall then up and left to arete and up.

Start: 3m righ of PGBDs. 'Arete'.

Start: Use tree to swing left into flimsier tree (!), traverse left to bolt, Up and right to 100' Slab hw ledge. Has a direct start 2m left.(Grade 22).

Up tree and crack to 100' Slab hw ledge.

Start: 7m right of HTBB.

Wall to ledge. Take great care with pro!

Start: 4m right of 100'S.

Free SH pitch 2 to third aid bolt, through roof and up wall.

Start: On halfway ledge as for SH pitch 2.

Up and right through choss to yellow corner, up to triangular block, right past bolt, choss to ledge. 2). Left and up to shelf beneath overhang, to wall, uo to small ledge. 3). Up and right. Take wires!

Start: Slab 3m right of E.

As for KK to thin traverse to cave, crawl left to belay. 2).Back to piton, over bulge and up to tree. 3). Up.

Start: As for KK.

Tree to jug, groove to bulge, over, up to ledge on right. 2).Diagonally left to base of corner. 3). Corner.

Start: 4m right of FT.

Start: 25m right of GP.

1). Up corner to pro, traverse right to ledge at nose. 2).The roofs.

Start: 4m right of DW. Off rock and up, left under roof to ledge.

Crack to corner, up to piton, left to bolt, up to piton, left and up then overhung groove to ledge 2). Wall to ledge. 3). Wall.

Start: 55m right, Orange wall below short corner.

Has a DS about 25m left.

Corner/chimney to roof, over and up. Finish as for PW.

Start: 13m right of TS.

Good route, though much of it is a retrobolt of the unlovely A Sickening Crunch. The climb starts between CC and CCDS (not marked; look for a carrot).

P1 heads up and crosses Cave Climb at the first traverse - optional cam in large flake. Then up and traverse left 4 metres then straight up to join A Sickening Crunch for a few metres till semi hanging belay. Bring some long slings, or double ropes to reduce rope drag around the middle of this pitch.

P2 Has some great exposure with nice moves off the belay. Heads up over bulge then veer right on slab and carrots to overhang and ring bolts. Pull through overhang (don't veer off right to CC !) and then jugs up to the CC chain anchor. Its a 50 m rap from here to the deck.

The route can be done with no gear. P1 requires 7 bolt plates, P2 requires 5 bolt plates.

Climb tree to branch below corner, to rest, right to corner, up to ledge, choss corner to roof, right, up crack above roof then right to belay. 2).Up, right through scrub, to ledge, mantle to ledge, left & up to ledge. 3).As for EP.

Start: 18m right of EP.

Up to crack, chimney to belay. 3).Traverse left around roof, up. 4).Right, crack to tree. 5). To ledge and off right.

Start: From N anchor 1.

3 pitches.

Possibly the easiest route at the crag - however it's not pretty. Big sandy horizontals.

starts round the arête on the wall traversing left then straight up

Corner crack 20m further left from Archon with brilliant yellow lichen. With proper sling-fu can be done in one 55m pitch. Abseil from tree at top to anchors of Wizball and then down. 55m rap. Take double cams from 0.4 Camelot to 3 Camelot and double wires. Lots of slings!

An unlikely trad route following a crack that seems to want to vanish into the face but continues all the way to a natural finish. To access walk quite a way left (facing the cliff) around from the last bolted lines on a fairly clear track. This will take you to a large grey face with an obvious cleaned crack that starts at the ground and goes to a ledge at about 8m.

Start up the wide crack beneath the fern and up to VERY vegetated ledge. From here the climbing gets good and sees you blast up the immaculate finger crack and then truck diagonally rightwards following the crack system that links the series of horizontal breaks to the final wall and seam (very small gear, C3s or tiny X4s). Head up this into the corner and top out onto the nice ledge with the small tree and DBB. Best to bring a second up as cleaning it is painful (but doable).

Excellent climbing up finger crack with some thin upper face moves. Start: Thin lightning bolt crack on black wall, R of Jen Hawkins nose.

1. 15m (19) Up crack to fixed peg and small cams. Up closed crack section [crux] to vertical finger crack, left (passing FH) to belay as for JH (lower offs).

2. 40m Up arête or rap off.

Great crack climbing up a spectacular line. Original route possibly Pandora.

Start: Obvious striking crack with single fern above broken chimney. Best to combine pitches 1 and 2.

1. 10m (10) Easy up to start of crack.

2. 25m (19) Up cracks and chimney to little roof, up splitting crack, follow crack [fern] with good pro. Belay at rap point in gully.

3. 15m (12) Up cracks/gully. *Abseil access from trees near rock platform at track end to fixed rap-­‐point in Gilby’s Gully. 15 M rap to rap station. 30 M rap down Red Alert wall to slabs with care. Also rap point on The Terrace 20 M below.

Start: Directly below FH on P traverse. Undercut ‘access cave’. Pitch 1: Pre-­‐ clip FH as for P traverse. Cams in slot also. Jump to slot, then straight up towards FH. Intermediate holds to jugs. Up as for P. Finish large ledge as for OH. Locate FH for belay backed onto DRBB. Ben Sanford, Bradley Cameron August 2015

Pockets/seam and black wall on good rock. Up pockets/seam 2 RBs, over bulge RB, up black wall, FH to DFLO as for ETJ.

Start: 4m R of ETJ at thin crack and pockets.

Definitely not the best climbing I've done. Was a fairly sketchy FA. Crack is still dirty so gear is limited. Fairly awkward climbing but worth a go.

A good corner system with excellent climbing up a steep crack.

From the bottom of the access abseil, walk left facing the cliff for approx. 200m until you reach the obvious fused, clean corner with a hanging corner above.

1. 18m (18) Up fused corner with pockets then into crack and over bulges to belay ledge. Bolt, piton and cam belay.

2. 32m (19) Up a few metres then left over small roof and into steep finger/knuckle corner crack. Follow this system up to a stance. From here avoid the top vegetated corner by climbing the nose and wall to the right of the corner which is easy climbing on good rock. Climb up to tree belay and then do a roped scramble back to main area track.

A good climb with a rad first pitch followed by some gripping and adventurous but less inspiring easy climbing.

Facing the cliff, walk around to the right from the abseil point until you get to an awesome finger crack up an orange corner with an undercut start.

1. 25m (19) Up finger crack with small gear to juggy slab. Climb the slab up past the first big ledge to cam and sapling belay.

2. 25m (15) Follow slab up past committing undercut move, deviating slightly left on to the orange wall before traversing right to belay in the gully.

3. 30m (15) Head left and continue up mostly easy slab, passing one hard move and into some slightly rotten rock to top out. One large cam and two slings.